The
Geographical Journal.
THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA,
Dr. SVEN HEDIN.
was June 24, that left Stockholm for the fourth time
quest new experiences and new adventures the heart Central
Asia. That journey, which occupied period three years and three
days, now happily concluded. And to-night have the pleasure and
privilege laying before you account various journeyings
the centre the great continent which have just mentioned.
preparations for this last journey resulted rather pon-
derous, but certainly more complete, outfit than had carried with
any previous expeditions.t Still had reason complain
this score, since, through the courtesy his Imperial Majesty the
Czar Russia, was granted full exemption from customs duties,
well free travelling and free transport through the length and
breadth his empire. same monarch also gave escort
four Cossacks, fine, honest fellows, who, for their loyalty and courage,
were, the close their term service, rewarded with gold medals
both his Majesty the King Sweden and his Imperial Majesty
the Czar.
For the journey through the Trans-Caspian region had the honour
railway carriage all myself, the last the train, that, from
the platform its rear, was able enjoy
hoped that finished map Dr. will ready for
publication before the end the year.
The means for undertaking this journey were chiefly given H.M. the King
Sweden and Norway and some Swedish among others Emanuel
No. 1903.]
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222 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902.
view the country were travelling through. After that journeyed
well-known route from Osh Kashgar. Kasbgar raised and
equipped caravan fifteen camels and ten horses, and with them
marched Lailik the Yarkand-daria.
had already crossed Eastern almost every direction,
and the river was the only route with which was not acquainted.
Consequently, decided make its muddy waters carry down
the region Lob-Nor. being the best suited for purpose,
bought ordinary ferry-boat, one the kind which ordinarily
employed for ferrying goods across the river those points where
intersected the caravan routes, and fitted comfortable
floating house, which became for many long months.
This led regular workshop being established the middle the
desert, carpenters and smiths being sent for from Yarkand make
such alterations the craft were necessary. had deck fitted
over the fore part, and upon that set tent. Its interior was
fitted study, writing-table, made out couple boxes,
being placed the entrance. From that vantage-ground commanded
complete view the river during the whole journey over
1300 miles. Not single bend, lagoon, sandhill, grove
trees escaped all were successively plotted maps
glided past them one after the other. Amidships had
hut erected planks and black rugs, serve photographic dark-
room. was provided with tables and benches, while barrel was
placed the roof supply water the samovar, which washed
photographic plates. baggage was stacked the stern the
boat, and there also servants established their quarters. the
same part the boat they built small fireplace bricks, which
they cooked their food throughout the journey; while the cool
autumn evenings they kept fire burning constantly. smaller ferry-
boat was fitted our larder, store-room. kept our
supplies flour and rice, grapes, melons and pears, vegetables, live
sheep and fowls; and these last had very great deal cackling
they got accustomed their floating home. When everything
was finished, however, the boat was exceedingly comfortable, being,
were, sort country house set afloat the bosom the great river.
also had dogs board, and small English collapsible boat,
which used for short reconnoitring trips and down the stream.
The day before started invited the entire population the dis-
trict big entertainment, which tea and hot rice-pudding were
supplied lib. The very same musicians who celebrated departure
disastrous desert journey 1895 came again, and twanged
their strings the same melancholy manner. And while their doleful
strains fretted the stillness the night, couple barefooted girls
whirled round and round dizzy dance. But the latter, upon being
THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902.
photographed the next day under the piercing rays the sun, did not
appear anything like the same advantage they did the light
September 17, the caravan, led the two Cossacks Sirkin and
Chernoff, started follow the land-route vid Aksu and Korla the
rendezvous agreed upon the Lower Tarim. With the boat
took former faithfal servant, Islam Bai, and five boatmen, whom
stationed with long poles one each corner the boat, well one
the provision boat, directing them keep the flotilla from sticking
fast the bank should the current carry too violently against it.
When all was ready gave the signal for the start. Our boats made
their way up-stream, and the hospitable shores Lailik were speedily
lost view behind the woods. Here began most
was indeed pleasure live the river, and study its pulsating life,
its ebb and its flow, its capricious windings, its ever-changing shores.
me, who had been accustomed travel horseback, survey
the country from the back swaying camel, there was incom-
parable enjoyment feeling myself carried smoothly alorg the
current peacefully flowing river; and sitting still all the time
writing-table, while the landscape came, were, meet
me, and unfolded itself before eyes like perpetually changing
panorama, that all had was study and observe from
the vantage-ground seat the stalls. And was, too,
delightful feeling always home, and carry house about
with me, snail does, through the interior Asia. When the
weather was warm, had only throw off clothes and jump straight
from writing-table. Then, later on, dinner would served
amongst compasses, field-glasses, and levelling instruments.
meteorological observatory was the roof the hut, and were
barometer, which recorded daily how slowly but gradually
descended, and thermometers, which gradually sank lower and
lower the autumn advanced,
had only gone very short distance when managed run
aground. But the boatmen leapt into the water and pushed the boat
After that sent the smaller provision boat front,
act pilot, and warn the presence dangerous places.
wonder how many scores times got stuck sandbanks
during that journey? rule, camped among the woods
shore, where there was plenty fuel. But while the crew slept
land, slept board. Every evening after landed, measured
the volume the river, with the help collapsible boat, velocity
instrument, sounding-pole, and rope stretched across the stream.
During the first few days the volume worked out the rate 3355
cubic feet per second.
Kotteklik descended certain rapids, which our craft shot
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224 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL 1899-1902.
splendid style, without the slightest trouble. But below the rapids the
force the current was strong that were unable keep clear
the writing-table was great danger going overboard.
Further the river divided, and drifted amongst arms
narrow that were only just able force the boat along
other parts the stream was encumbered with driftwood and the trunks
the poplar trees, which lay submerged the water’s edge, were not
noticed until the boat swung right round upon them. one point,
where large quantities water are drained off feed the irrigation
canals Maral-bashi, the current dwindled 810 cubic feet the
second, and were obliged requisition the natives help hauling
our boats over the shallows. After that the country became un-
inhabited; and the boats glided noiselessly through the dense forests,
which were often thick that scarce ray sunlight pierced through
the dark hiding-places and holes which the boars, tigers, and
other beasts the jungle make their lairs.
the beginning our journey the gnats were very troublesome,
but the frosty weather soon put them flight. the same time the
poplars put their robes cloth gold, preparing for autumn
carnival. Tall and straight they stood, mirroring their heads
the great river, the Alma-Mater, East Turkestan, though they
were religiously paying their devotions her, just the Brahmins and
grey-haired pilgrims who journey Benares die pay reverent homage
the Ganges.
this way glided day after day, week after week, down the
dark waters the Tarim, through the enchanted forests, which shut
in, were, along kini Venetian thoroughfare lined palaces
magically changed into trees, and quays golden shimmering reeds.
When the current flowed more slowly, the boatmen turns
over their punting-poles. And when the wind blew through the forest,
scattered shower golden leaves over the face the river, making
golden waterway for all through the autumn, followed
every curve and winding the stream. was though were
threading enchanted sargasso seas
rule, the Tarim very sinuous. For instance, one case,
after making detour over three-quarters mile, found had
only advanced 200 yards lineal direction, or, other words, had
gone round eight-ninths circle order get over distance equal
the remaining ninth. this way occasionally happened that
came back the very same poplars which had left behind few
hours previously.
Upon reaching Masar-tagh stayed there two three days, and
carried out several excursions boat and foot, with the view
completing the maps made previous journey. The
temperature sank for the first time below zero, that say,
'
THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 225
30° Fakr., the night October 12. the evening October
were cheered the sight fire blazing amongst the trees the
bank. was made shepherds, who were this way seeking
scare away the tigers. soon they caught sight our boat,
with its spectre-like tent and its coal-black hut, gliding noiselessly
between the river-banks, they took incontinently their heels, and
fled, leaving both sheep and fire their fate. Throughout the whole
the journey had the greatest difficulty getting into communi-
cation with the half-wild shepherds, who pasture their flocks the
primeval forests the Tarim. matter how called them,
they steadfastly refused come and talk with us; but, the sight
our boat, they nearly always fled away like frightened antelopes, and
was only the exercise little stratagems that were able secure
them all, and detain them board until their local topographical
knowledge came end.
The first break interlude our monotonous journey occurred
when approached the inhabited region Arvat. were met
several begs, chiefs, and crowd horsemen, amongst whom were
eight falconers, each carrying his bird his glove. These people
accompanied along the banks, and never have the waters the
Tarim witnessed more festive procession.
the autumn advanced, saw, both day and night, huge flocks
wild geese flying overhead, making for India way They
kept regularly altitude 600 700 feet above our heads, and the
air echoed again with their discordant quackings.
find their way along their aerial highways—those wonderful feathered
pilgrims, surely the rivulets from the melting glaciers find their
way down Lob-nor. And truly majestic sight stand aud
watch them streaming their serried phalanxes, like squadrons
the sky charging and on, silent and untiring wings.
length arrived the mouth the Ak-su-daria, and there our
river met with very noteworthy augmentation its volume. The
rate flow the current quickened nearly miles hour, aud
our boat swung right round glided out into the swirl the
confluence. But all went excellently well; the banks disappeared
rapidly behind us, while every now and again the river was broken
rapids. For two days travelled the rate miles hour, and
consequently had keep sharp look-out raced past the woods
and the kamish (reed) beds, the risk being submerged beneath
the avalanche crumbling bank sand. the season grew older,
began sensibly cold board. the night November
both boats froze fast the ice, though, fortunately, was thin, and
the end the month the temperature had sunk 29° below freezing-
point (Fahr. one had quite dangerous adventure
—our boat was carried close underneath high, steep bank, and
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226 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902.
little way ahead saw poplar tree leaning out low down over
the current. The punting-poles failed touch the bottom, and
tent and every other structure board would infallibly have gone
over the side had not one men, the nick time, jumped into
the ice-cold water and swum land with rope.
And now began live daily expectation the river freezing,
for sooner later the ice would raise insurmountable obstacle our
further progress. Hence there began sort race between ourselves
and it. Could manage get far our rendezvous before came
and stopped us? For several days journeyed all day long, and often
far into the night; and for period ten days towards the end
November met with rare good fortune. Some years ago the river
made for itself new bed through sea sand, which flung its
dunes like pyramids either bank. This new channel gave short
cut. But not vestige vegetation, not antelope, not human
being, not even much raven vulture, gladdened our eyes
these dream-like, desolate banks. Here again the speed the
current was over miles hour, that sped breathless
pace past the sandhills, which towered fully feet above the
surface the stream.
last froze hard night that had chop out our boats
with axes every morning. white chain drift-ice was trailed down
the river, and jangled like string bells against the sides our
boats night. During the first days December the river grew full
ice this description, and most fantastic were the shapes assumed
those evenings when continued our journey far into the dark-
ness. times our boats were preceded small native canoes,
carrying flaring oil-lamps. These constantly moving ice-bound channels
gave out unceasing succession groans and moans; and when
became embedded them, and were carried along the same rate
they moved, they appeared relatively stationary—that say,
appeared stand still, though the slow movements the compass-
needle revealed the windings the river, while the dim-lit banks
glided past like wandering spectres. last, however, the ice won
the upper hand. The strips ice along the banks fastened themselves
the sides and began grow inwards towards each other, that the
channel open water the middle the river became narrower and
narrower. December the ice welded the two sides the river
together. were frozen fast, and had into winter quarters.
The place where this happened was called Yanghi-koll, and here,
stroke good luck, fell that very same day with our caravan.
Then arose, magic, small town the desolate banks the
Tarim. Tents were pitched, kamish (reed) huts constructed, and stables
built shelter the animals the caravan. the market-place
kept burning night Chinese lantern swung pole, and this was
SAND DUNES NEAR THE RIGHT BANK THE
LOWER TARIM.
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SAND DUNES THE RIGHT BANK THE TARIM,
NEAR YANGI-KOLL.
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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 227
the only lamp-post the whole place. this time, also, kindled
fire, which was not allowed out until the end May the
following year. Traders came visit from Korla and from Kuchar,
and desired barter their wares with us; this way lively market
flourished the wilderness.
After making excursion into the interior the sandy desert,
and entertaining the famous French traveller Bonin, his way from
Peking, open-air camp, set out December from Yanghi-
koll with caravan seven camels, one horse, four men, and two
dogs, cross the most appalling desert the face all the earth,
the Takla-makan, object being strike the town Tatran,
the Cherchen-daria, the other side the desert. That meant
journey close upon 180 miles, twice the distance traversed
1895 another part the same desert, the course which the
whole caravan perished except one man. But now was the
depth winter, and loaded four the camels with blocks ice,
while two others carried fuel, and the seventh our provisions and furs,
had tents with us, slept the whole that winter the
open air, although the temperature fell below zero. had
husband the camels’ strength, took with for the first two days
small reserve caravan two men and three camels, the latter carry-
ing ice and but Christmas Eve sent them back.
When set out from our camp, the inhabitants the district
looked upon suicides; and both and Islam Bai knew only too
well how dangerous the journey was. The desert opened out before
like illimitable sea, and ere two days had passed became lost its
endless labyrinths sand. Their conformation, however, lent great
assistance our march. The prevailing winds blow from the east,
and heap the sand ridges like gigantic waves, pile
vast accumulations dunes 300 400 feet high. These the sheltered
side down angle 33°; but the windward side, the east,
they have gradual slope. But addition these north-and-south
ridges there also another system sand-dunes disposed right
angles the first, that lines running from east west. These
have been built winds blowing from the north and from the south
during the winter.
The sand-dunes thus form kind network and the meshes
there exist depressions which are often perfectly flat, and show the
clay-soil underneath, swept free from sand. These spots the natives
chain unnumbered lakes, which accompany the right bank the Tarim
its course.
Other circumstances unexpected nature also conspired the
successful issue our enterprise. the middle the desert
chanced upon some plots kamish (reeds); consequently the journey
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228 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902.
cost more than one camel. The remainder the troop stood the
journey well, they swayed backwards and forwards like ships plough-
ing over the waves the desert. The worst evil had contend
against were the incessant storms, which whirled the sand front
us, that were quite unable see any distance ahead.
semi-darkness prevailed the whole the time; and sooner had
left the small kamish oases behind us, than were again lost the
labyrinthine network sand-dunes. make things worse, the hard
clay depressions now disappeared. there exist sand deserts the
moon, not think they can possibly more desolate than the Takla-
makan.
also exercise the strictest economy with our only
certain number sticks were allowed doled out every
Hence had wrap ourselves our furs and crouch close together
round the fire keep ourselves warm; while jotted down notes
the light single wretched lantern. were also obliged
sparing with Yet, even though this had failed us, the heavens
were kind, for, the beginning January, they took care that
should not suffer from want water. For began snow, and con-
tinued snowing for several days. used wake the morning
completely buried under snow, that Islam Bai had set work
and dig out warm lair with spade. The sandhills dis-
appeared from sight entirely underneath the undulating sheet snow.
sleep the open air with 60° frost is, however, far more interest-
ing than agreeable. When sat over our camp-fire often had
temperature 85° the side next the fire, but temperature 20°
below zero the outer side the circle.
last, January sighted the first tamarisk trees, and, that
same evening, encamped the banks the ice-bound Cherchen-
daria. From this point travelled up-country place called Andereh,
distance 240 miles. Finally, way the ancient bed the
Ettek-tarim, now dry, and after that unknown paths, reached
Yanghi-koll again February 24. Here was joined two Buryats,
Cossacks, who had spent four months the journey
from Trans-Baikalia.
March was again the saddle, with face towards the
eastern part the desert regions, the head new and well-rested
caravan, made follows: the Cossack Chernoff, six Mussulmans,
twelve camels, and one horse. first object was map the
daria, the dried-up bed what was formerly outlet the Tarim,
when that river flowed into the ancient lake Lob-nor. The upper
part this ancient river-bed exceptionally well defined, and contains,
even the present day, few salt-water pools. Further on, however,
completely dry, and parts entirely obliterated.
But return our journey. One day, the very middle our
THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA,
march, were overtaken sandstorm such violent character
that the whole caravan was brought sudden halt. These storms
loom the east like black wall, and swoop down upon you like
impenetrable fog reddish yellow sand and dust. Whilst this particu-
lar storm was raging lost touch caravan, and spent consider-
able time wandering about before could find again. could only
get one half tent under the shelter sandhill. But the
sand rained through the canvas, and every single object that was
lying about became covered with it. even gets into your mouth
and grits between your teeth. cook food such tempest
course absolutely out the question, when the wind blowing the
rate miles hour. cup water and piece bread was all
could get eat. The camels lay perfectly still, with their necks
stretched out leeward, and the men tightly their coats.
There amazing force locked these desert storms. The
quantities material they lift and carry away, and deposit
other places, enormous.
last found water Yardang-bulak, little well the foot
the mountain. ‘lhe well itself was tremendously salt, but the sheets
ice upon contained fresh water. Wild camels were common
these parts, and shot couple.
From this point our route lay along the bed the Kum-daria,
sometimes the channel itself, sometimes along its bank. Here
three separate occasions came upon fragments earthenware,
showing that the banks this river were formerly inhabited, although
for centuries the ground has not been moistened with drop water.
further advanced towards the east, the more desolate grew the
desert. poplar trees which stood the banks the river-bed
were thousand years old, and brittle and fragile glass—the
grave-stones, were, the ancient forest.
After this came most remarkable oasis, namely, Altimish-
bulak, the Sixty Wells. again found salt water, with big
blocks ice close proximity. These salt-wells furnish sustenance
vigorous patches (reeds) and belts tamarisks, but all
huddled together within such narrow space that was easy
imagine had landed upon islet the middle the desert sea.
When were still distance off, the hunters party
made out herd camels, consisting old male and five young
animals, grazing amongst the bushes. The caravan came halt, and
went with the stalkers for the purpose examining the creatures
through They were barely 100 paces distant, and
looked really splendid their light brown woolly winter coats. Two
them were lying down, the others grazing, whilst the old one was
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230 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA,
Abdu-Rehim, crept stealthily through the bushes like panther.
When fired, the entire herd took their heels, and went off
whirling cloud dust—all except one, young and handsome male,
whose flesh made very welcome addition our larder. The wild
camel certainly wonderful animal. You find him the dreariest
parts the desert. only short time each oasis, but like
ship the ocean the desert, continually passing backwards and
forwards. Nobody knows how lives. springs out the
dried-up earth were ghost, and vanishes like the wind, and
when disturbed his peaceful haunts does not stop his wild flight
for days and nights together.
was important halting-place; and was from
there proposed cross the desert southerly direction. dis-
tance Kara-koshun, where expected find game, could covered
week, and even our supply water did give out, knew that
were hardly likely perish thirst. Amongst other stores
took four sacks filled with ice; but, spite our utmost care
protect them from the sun, two pailfuls dripped away during the first
day two the march. few steps only away from the wells
Altimish-bulak, and were again mid-desert. The contour soon
began fall away gradually the direction the old Lob-nor lake,
which was indicated belt dead forest. Here found myriads
shells, that the ground was many places quite white
with them. was here, too, that Chernoff and latter one
the men brought with from Yanghi-koll—discovered the ruins
two three houses. The beams other parts their wooden frame-
work lay scattered about the ground, half buried under dust and
sand. One circumstance which once lent considerable antiquity
the buildings was the fact that they stood upon pediments clay, that
say, narrow mounds, about feet high, which had been built
suit the plan the houses. Originally these clay footings were con-
structed the level ground; but the north-east wind, its restless
activity, had scooped out the ground all around them, and swept clean
away. The clearest indications the enormous erosive power the
wind these parts exist everywhere throughout the desert, the clay
soil being many places furrowed with trenches feet depth
the direction which the winds blow and, consequence this,
you often appear marching amongst benches and tables all made
clay.
collected specimens the wood-carving from the houses, and
dug some Chinese coins, besides axes, sacrificial cups, and so-forth.
The roof each house lay piled its west side, and under the
shelter the house itself. doubt had been hurled there the
last desert storm, which had been unable withstand.
But our water-supply would not allow stay more than
THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 251
twenty-four hours this place, were obliged continue our march
southwards, though not until had photographed the ruins and
measured the site.
That evening, just when were going dig well our new
camping-ground, get water for the camels, discovered that
had forgotten our spade; had been left behind the And
the spade was implement great importance us, sent Ordek
back fetch it. Accordingly started back the next morning, while
continued our march. Not long after this violent sandstorm came
down upon us, and feared the worst for our solitary traveller. But
Ordek’s topographical instinct did not fail him. Although lost our
track, nevertheless succeeded making his way back the ruins,
and, his return with the spade, brought with him what was even
more important, namely, some fresh wood-carvings, executed with still
perfection than those discovered first. Besides that,
also gave information such character that felt must all
costs return these sites ancient civilization. then was,
however, impossible; had control patience until the following
winter.
Our supply water was just the point giving out when
length reached the shore completely new lake, which spread out
the north the marsh Kara-koshun. was fed equally
new branch the Tarim, which left that river Shirgeh-chappgan.
made the return journey canoes, first the new branch and
then along the Tarim and the network waterways which make
its delta. The twenty-five days this canoe journey lasted would have
been very delightful had not been for the midges, which tormented
unmercifully every evening.
now mapped out detail the lakes which had discovered
previous journey, namely, Avullu-koll, Kara-koll, Tayek-koll, Arka-
koll, and Chivillik-koll, tegether with several others which that
occasion escaped observation. found that they reached depth
feet; and one arm the river this same neighbourhood
sounded depth 41} feet, seven and half times more than any-
where else the newly formed marsh Kara-koshun.
indeed significant fact that the deepest depression the Lob
region found, not the termination the hydrographical system,
but here the region which, from remote antiquity, has borne the
name Lob.
The May saw again the Yanghi-koll, where found
everything peaceable and well. this the river had begun swell
from the melting the ice, and its volume now measured 3400 cubic
feet the second, about the same Lailik, where began
voyage its waters,
Next sent off, under the charge the Cossack Cherdon, big
—
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232 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902.
caravan horses and mules, instructing him make for Temirlik,
the Chimen-tagh, and after them the camels, bound for the same place,
under Chernoff and Islam Bai. Meanwhile, myself continued
journey, along with Sirkin and Shagdur, the big boat, and
finished laying down maps the lower Tarim.
Our huts now stood empty and abandoned. The native traders
departed quest more profitable markets; but the place needed
name for future identification, was, consequently, called Tura-
sallgan-uy, which means “the houses built the All
very nice way. But the very next spring-flood that came swept
away the whole our bank the river; our huts vanished off the
face the earth, and, together with the poplars, were swallowed
oblivion.
During the course journey down the big river, investigated
and sounded many the peculiar lateral lakes which lie
embedded amongst the dunes drift-sand immediately along its right
bank. They are like growths parasites, which suck away, were,
the life-blood the river. For instance, the time examined it,
the lake Karunalik was receiving through very small feeder
volume equivalent over cubic feet the second. Thus this
one small lake alone drains away from the Tarim close upon 300,000
cubic feet water every twenty-four hours. This, then, striking
characteristic the lower Tarim. Instead gathering itself together
and pouring its waters body into the terminal basin, filters
itself away number lagoons strung all alongside the principal
channel. And the lower-lying portions the region become filled
and raised the accumulated sedimentary matters which the river
brings down with it, the lateral lagoons flit steadily higher and higher
the stream. Many these lakes are carefully preserved the
natives for the sake the fish which they contain. First they stop
the channel which supplies the lake with water from the river.
This causes the lake become stagnant, and begins shrink
evaporation, whereupon the water becomes slightly salt, which
believed make the fish bigger and more palatable. The natives
catch them drag-net pulled along two canoes.
this region the river makes its way immediately along the foot
the sand-dunes. You would think these sandhills would swept
away the unceasing wind-storms which prevail but one measured,
which stood close the bank, rose height 295 feet, and this was
not the highest saw that position. The simple explanation this
fact that the river-bed shifts.as the sand shifts—that is, towards the
right, westwards. And, matter fact, have seen that the
Tarim formerly flowed down the bed the Kum-daria, nearly
east, instead of, now, towards the south. Sometimes the river
undecided its course. overflows its banks and makes its way
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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902.
through lakes choked with reeds. where was only
the utmost exertions that were able punt our boat along
through the unprecedentedly dense masses (reeds), was
lake this description. The only way get along was set fire
the vegetation and burn down the edge, and then cut
channel through the tight-packed reed-stalks which remained.
Towards the end May enveloped veritable clouds
gnats and gadflies, and was forced have hut put the fore-
part the deck instead the tent. Meanwhile the heat increased
day day.
May travelled canoe the Lake Beglik-koll, and sounded
it. The great sheet water was placid mirror, and reflected
the sand-dunes with the accuracy Towards evening, after
work was done, the west shore the lake rest.
Kirghin Pavan, one old friends who dwelt that part
the country, pointed towards the sand-dunes the east, and cried,
tone interrogation, (“black storm”), which signifies
desert storm the worst description. inky black
pillar towered the horizon and bent its head forwards across the
desert, whilst several similar pillars leapt beside like buttresses,
supporting it. Then they melted together into one continuous wall,
which rose higher and higher the air. lake, however, spite
the oncoming storm, still maintained its mirror-like placidity.
had still good distance row before could enter the channel
which led into the Tarim, gave the order start once. The men
rowed with such desperate haste that every moment expected hear
the paddles snap two. Their backs were bent like bows raced
along over the sleeping waters, making the foam spin high off the bows
the canoe. were going the rate hour. The
atmosphere was still calm, but watched the portentous swiftness
with which the tempest bore down upon us, felt the full pre-
monition the appalling change which was about take place.
Such moments these are magnificent, but put severe strain upon
one. it’s got the sand-dunes!” cried one the men.
glanced and saw the outlines the dunes disappearing though
they were being washed off slate, and moment the entire labyrinth
sand-dunes, together with the lake shore, was thick
yellow-gray fog. row!” shouted the Mussulmans. Allah!
Yes!” came the answer hollow and awe-struck tones.
Down came the first gusts wind from the east-north-east. With
mighty roar the “black tempest” swooped down upon the water,
which, hissing and boiling, was two minutes lashed into huge waves
white foam. Our boat flew along terrific miles
hour. were only about mile distant from the northern shore.
Allah! can’t it!” was the cry. But just the moment
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when the tempest seized its grip, and would assuredly have
capsized our frail craft had not thrown all our weight over
the windward side time, were suddenly enveloped im-
penetrable fog the finest dust. surroundings were absolutely
blotted out, and became lost the darkness. utmost could
distinguish was the nearest waves, and down which our canoes
danced like straws.
were our last gasp, speak, when caught the first
glimpse the tamarisks looming through the fog. The canoes were
full water that they were ready sink but were protected
tongue sand which acted breakwater. Once the lake
Gillmeh-ghetti our two canoes did fill with water, and sank out the
open lake. But fortunately the water was shallow that were
easily able walk ashore. The depth none these lakes exceeds
feet, and the greatest depth always found close the eastern
shore, under the shelter the steep
Beyond Argan the Tarim again swells out into large and powerful
river flowing well-defined channel. now pushed rapidly,
often keeping until three o’clock the morning, escape the gad-
flies. The way was led torches and lanterns, which flitted ahead
like St. Elmo’s fires, the accompaniment accordion which had
brought with entertain the people. One evening were over-
taken canoe, which came creeping alongside our big boat like
eel. turned out courier from Kashgar bringing letters
the solitude the desert. the fishing hamlet Chegghelik
abandoned trusty old craft, the great delight the grateful
natives. The only way which the remainder the journey, far
Abdal, could accomplished was tying our canoes together,
covering them with deck, and setting tents upon it. Abdal
rested some days, and, with the ready help afforded handy
and reliable Cossacks, prepared mail-bag and got ready number
photographic plates. the same place also made collection
the popular songs, which for centuries have been sung the poor but
interesting fisher-folk who dwell there. Then, but with smaller
caravan, continued journey towards our principal camp
Mandarlik the Chimen-tagh. And there were all once more
collected together again.
From that place sent back Sirkin and Chernoff Kashgar, fetch
some Chinese silver money, some tinned provisions, and letters, and
July started upon difficult and exhausting journey right across
Eastern Tibet. appointed the Cossack Cherdon valet-de-chambre,
and Bai headman the caravan. One the
most useful members company was Abdat, the hunter, who knew
Northern Tibet from having spent six winters amongst its mountains
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THE TARIM, NEAR KARAUL.
ARKA-TAG CHAIN.
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hunting wild yaks single-handed. did this make profit out
their skins. caravan consisted six men, seven camels, twelve
horses, one mule, sixteen sheep, and two dogs. The greater part it,
however, under the leadership Shagdur and Islam Bai, was instructed
proceed later and there wait until joined them.
was fine summer weather when left but had
barely gone two days’ march when encountered violent snow-
storm. Under cover this, band venturesome wolves came and
frightened our flock sheep out the camp and killed nine them.
Later captured two young wolves, and tried take them with
us; but one escaped, and the other gnawed himself death.
Three days’ journeying from the principal camp brought over
the mountains and the fourth over the parallel ranges
the Arka-tagh and Kalta-Alagan, high but easy passes. Among
these mountains always had much attend that seldom got
into camp until long after the rest the caravan. One day the con-
formation the country was more than usually complicated, and when
darkness fell, putting stop all further work, found myself obliged
spend the night with Cossack attendant the open air, without
either warm clothing supper.
the south the Kalta-Alagan mountains the surface level
slopes imperceptibly down towards the sister lakes Kum-koll, one
which, the upper lake, contains fresh water, but the other, the lower
lake, salt water. Beyond these lakes again there stretched belt
drift-sand, with dunes over 150 feet height. The steppe was dotted
with thousands grazing wild asses. men cortrived
catch two young ones, and very soon they became perfectly tame.
fed them with milk-porridge, which they drank greedily; but
spite that they would not thrive, had them killed. The natives
declared would useless turn them adrift rejoin their mothers,
for the old wild ass refuses take any notice her offspring once they
have been the hands man.
During the latter part July marched straight south,
towards the Arka-tagh, and crossed successively its four
chains one after the other. This tried the animals’ strength severely
but they came through all right. Amid these complicated mountain
chains was not always easy hit upon the best road and every time
found fresh snowy range confronting us, had send horseman
ahead reconnoitre the way. August went over the fourth
the parallel chains the Arka-tagh and descended into the great
longitudinal valley which traversed 1896. Inthe evening could
only get little warm tea drink, after had broken one our boxes
pieces make fire with. Here encamped the shore
salt lake region unmitigated sterility. The very bottoms the
valleys are here some 350 feet higher than the summit Mont Blanc.
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Next floundered into region which, for pure
absolutely without parallel. The surface consisted sand and mud,
saturated with water like bog, that the animals sank
their knees. The moisture, becoming thickened the snow and hail,
does not run off the ground, but sinks down into it, making soft and
spongy and fearfully treacherous. Our animals kept falling incessantly,
and every time had unloaded before they could got again.
This part the journey cost one camel and one horse. There was
not blade grass found anywhere; and the continuous falls
snow, mingled with hail, caused our camels suffer much from the
cold that were forced give every sack and blanket which could
spared make into rugs keep them warm.
After crossing two fresh mountain chains, with extensive, but short,
glacier-fields, encamped, August 21, the northern shore
unusually large salt This decided cross boat the
company one man, Kutchuk, act boatman, while the caravan
went round the west side point indicated the opposite
south shore.
The course steered across this very remarkable lake was towards
the south-east. The eastern shore was not, however, visible. Our
six-foot punting-poles touched the bottom almost every part; and
the boat itself had carried more than mile before could
made float. The bottom the lake was covered with thick
salt, over the rugged surface which was not
pleasant walk barefoot. The water isso salt that the indicator
hydrometer came standstill couple inches above the surface,
and had make special mark the glass preserve the register.
the boat—instruments, punting-poles, tackle, clothes—
all became white chalk, looked they had been dusted
with flour. The drops water which fell from the punting-pole were
converted into rods salt, which looked like stearine candles.
wonder this lake was sterile the Dead Sea.
When reached the southern shore was rapidly growing dark.
there was not the slightest sign the caravan seen. Accord-
ingly, had alternative but spend the night the desolate
shore without either water, and the only shelter could find
was the two halves the English boat. Kutchuk, the boatman, turned
one half the little boat over though were bell-glass; and
that way although narrow domicile reminded forcibly
coffin, more especially Kutchuk heaped the sand all round the
edges keep out the draught. came snow; but cared little
for that, though the big flakes pattered the oil-skin covering the
boat many tiny spirits the air trying get us.
The next day, aided favourable winds, sailed the west, and
found that the caravan had been its march stream.
THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 237
160 feet wide and feet deep, and had consequently encamped its
northern raked together everything which any way
partook the nature rope, tied them all together, and stretched
them across the river between two firmly fixed camel ladders, and
that way conveyed the across thirteen instalments. ‘The
horses swam over their own accord, but the camels were
some. ‘They refused budge inch, lift foot, and lay
down composedly the middle the stream, and even left hold
their heads above water with stout ropes. the mean time little
collapsible boat, which itself made fourth part camel’s load, was
great assistance conveying over the rest the caravan.
The river which caused this obstruction flowed out fresh-water
lake, fed swift glacier torrents, and, the time which speak,
was carrying down 1625 cubic feet water per second.
travelled towards the south, our provisions began give
out, and there was only ammunition enough for Aldat the
gun. camp No. where there was fair pasture, gave the
camels nine-days’ rest. Meanwhile with some
conditioned horses and three men, made excursion the south-east,
examine and map highly peculiar lake-region, where water was
more plentiful than dry land. Two large fresh-water lakes, extending
from west east, gather several streams and brooks from over
very considerable area, and give off another bread stream which
enters salt lake situated farther northwards.
the northern shore the eastern lake red sandstone cliffs
plunge sheer down into the water. fished one morning with
great success; and, whilst the other members the caravan marched
round the lake, Kutchuk and measured its depth, and found
1574 feet. Here again were overtaken hailstorm; but, fortu-
nately, the wind was favourable, and drove southwards tre-
mendous The inside our little boat became quite white with
hail and snow, and failed get even glimpse the shore. But
before landed sunset the storm had western lake
also was sounded snowstorm. now decided make for the west
and the and cross the mountain chains which had climbed
over our way south, and return While the caravan
under the direction Turdu Bai turned towards the north, accom-
panied Cherdon and Aldat, rode towards the south-west, examine
mountain knot which saw that direction, and four
days later rejoined the rest. After this, the second day, pitched
our tents the highest elevation have ever encamped Asia
elsewhere. hypsometers and aneroids registered inches; con-
sequently were halfway through the atmospheric envelope which
surrounds the earth. few hundred feet above the spot where were
encamped saw old yak licking the lichens and moss from the stones.
No.
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238 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902.
Aldat crept upon him cat, and brought him down paces. But
that proved Aldat’s last achievement for fell violently ill, and
had carried along the back camel, and the end few
days died. buried him the wilderness, and raised above his
grave tent-pole, with yaks’ tails fastened it, and strip cloth
with the date written Arabic and Roman numerals.
September 14, our fiftieth camping-place, encountered
snowstorm, the equal which have hardly ever seen even the
Alai valley. The snow simply came down sheets, and was driven
the wind into snow-wreaths with amazing rapidity, that few
minutes tent was surrounded high thick wall; and was
impossible obtain either firewood pasture for the animals.
fearful racket from the dogs. bear had coolly walked right
into the camp, and was going about snifling and inspecting everything,
and when the alarm was given, trotted off again with the same nonchu-
lance. had economical with our ammunition, was
allowed away scot-free. Cherdon was good shot, and capital
hand bringing down yaks, khlans, and antelopes, but forbade
unnecessary shedding blood.
Here again the surface consisted nothing but pure mud; but
froze sharply night, the ground was hard the morning. one
occasion, however, one the camels broke through the frozen crust
and sank into the mud. once ran and pulled off his load and his
pack-saddle but the harder worked the softer grew the ground all
round him, and before had done was like toad basin
porridge. last managed pull him out, one leg time,
putting felts under each foot got up; but the poor brute was
utterly exhausted, and looked like half-tinished piece statuary still
the hands.
last, however, but again the midst raging snowstorm,
once more crossed the Arka-tagh, and encamped the western side
the lake October still going north; crossed
over pass the mountain chain which forms the northern boundary
the basin Achik-koll. The cold was intense, and here again also
had contend with violent snowstorm. Five horses succumbed
the summit the pass. was not blade grass had,
not even much moss, After that our route still lay northwards
through the well-defined valley Fogri-Sai, fenced granite
escarpments. this region chanced upon so-called deposit
gold, which, however, was deserted for the autumn and winter.
also found spot where the valley begins open out interesting
carving, representing tiger, yak, and antelope hunt. was ccn-
siderable antiquity, for the hunters were depicted using cross-bows.
Another discovery the same region was religious stone
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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 239
monument erected Mongolian pilgrims, and inscribed with the
formula prayer, maneh padmeh hum.” Here also
fortunately fell with couple yak-hunters, whom sent our
principal camp with message asking for assistance. After losing two
three more camels and horses, length struck the broad valley
distance—to us, who for three months had not seen the face any
human being except ourselves, most welcome sight. although
pressed until midnight, were unable reach it, and,
thoroughly done up, were compelled encamp where were. was
Islam Bai, who perceived the next morning, soon after met
with fifteen horses laden with provisions. This was October
Four days later our wanderings came end; entered the head-
quarters camp, and were once more home.
next expedition was one twenty-five days’ duration, its object
the exploration the mountain chains which shut the valley
Chimen the north and the south, well take soundings
the lake Kum-koll. Accordingly crossed the Chimen-tagh and
the Kalta-Alagan mountains the shores the salt lake, upon which
spent two days boating. found that the greatest depth the
Kum-koll was feet. was decidedly cool sleeping out the open
air with the thermometer down 84° below zero. One men was
attacked disease his feet, which dropped off piece piece.
managed save his life.
journeys were not, however, yet end; but December
12, 1900, again left Temirlik with escort nine men, eleven
camels, ten horses, and three dogs. After paying visit the salt
the top encountered diflicult pass, where steps had literally
hewn out and the camels assisted over one one. then continued
our march between the parallel chains the Astyn-tagh, where
came upon traces ancient Mongol road. the first day the
new century reached Anam-baruin-gol, and after spending twenty
days marching round the vast mountain knot Anambar-ula, wound
visiting the Sirting Mongols, who gave friendly reception
and replenished our stock provisions. The temperature now sank
below zero (Fahr.), which would not have mattered much had
the wind not blown with such steady persistency.
From Anambaruin-gol sent back two men and seven horses
Charkhlik, our next rendezvous. did not think could take more
than three horses with across the desert, and consequently ordered
the rest the men, the end forty-five days, the northern
shore Lake Kara-koshun, three days’ journey north-east Kum-
chappgan, with fresh horses and provisions, and letters. And
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240 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA,
directed them guide through the desert setting fire the
reed-beds the lake every evening. January 27, taking with
the remainder the caravan, left Anambar and crossed the Gobi
desert west Sa-chau, journey ten days, the well
kuduk, situated the desert route between Abdal and Sa-chau.
the way passed through different kinds country—steppes,
low mountains, complete sandy desert, with considerable
altitude, and finally steppes again.
The little oasis Tograk-kuduk was then made the starting-point
dangerous but interesting journey. took with ice last
twelve days, for ourselves and the horses; and, turned out, was
precisely the quantity that was needed. Our camels were just begin-
ning feel the want water, but the whole bore the journey well.
marched northwards, the rate miles day, mostly
over wretched asar (eskirs) and ridges, scarce big enough called
mountains. They were, however, greatly weathered, and the country
utterly barren and desolate, without drop water anywhere.
February came the first buran the year and was bitterly
cold that had foot prevent ourselves from being frozen
death. night were only able make little tea the cost
two the tent-poles with which make the fire. the 1%th the
storm still continued but had firewood any descrip-
tion whatever, were obliged content ourselves with sucking small
pieces ice and munching dry bread—hardly fitting repast for such
truly arctic weather were then experiencing. The tracks wild
camel were exceptionally frequent, and observed them with the
greatest interest, and noted them down they might
later point important conclusions. Our situation was now critical.
stock ice was exhausted, and the camels had not drunk drop
water for twelve days. Fortunately, that same evening reached
spot where the wild-camel tracks all converged into one common
track, which eventually led into valley, the beginning which,
sure enough, there was salt-well, surrounded belt fresh-
water ice, few inches thick. also was had the same
place, stayed there two days, the camels, meanwhile, quenching
their thirst crunching the ice, which hewed pieces for them.
bulak. discovered that was just under miles out reckoning,
which was not very bad, considering that route was determined
upwards 10,000 compass observations, extending over distance
more than 1300 miles. Here sighted large herd camels,
and Shagdur shot two them, one being full-grown he-camel, whose
skin and skeleton took with us. Leaving behind the oasis three
weak camels and all the horses, charge one man, took with
the rest the caravan, and sufficient ice last for week, and set out
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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 241
visit the ruins which had noticed the previous year. reached
the place the end the third day, and made stationary camp
the vicinity big tower, constructed burnt and sun-dried bricks.
Our investigations resulted the discovery small village nine-
teen houses, which carefully surveyed, and then had dug out. Our
finds embraced some Chinese money, several small articles, the
wheel arba, Turkestan cart, various kinds utensils, pottery,
and wood-carvings, which had been used decorate the houses, etc.
the village which Ordek had discovered the previous year found
and examined small Buddhist shrine, which must one time have
been beautifully ornamented, you will perceive from the specimens
which are here displayed for your inspection. The interior the
shrine contained image Buddha enthroned. trunk
also included collection. While the excavations were
progress, small piece wood was flung aside being value;
but picked up, and found covered with native hieroglyphics, which
the savants have not yet succeeded deciphering. the north the
shrine seems have been protected poplar woods, but towards the
south looked out over the thick reed-beds which fringed the ancient
lake Lob-nor. one piece timber, the way, there was,
amongst other objects, fish depicted.
The brick tower which just now mentioned was feet high, and
afforded excellent view over the desert. wondered whether was
any way akin the which are found near Kashgar, and tried
dig through it. But there was nothing its interior. was
probably watch-tower, signal-tower,in times war, fires being
kindled its corners.
discovered three other similar towers, and four villages altogether.
importance remember that all these ancient habitations lay
line which ran from the north-north-west the south-south-east,
and which, consequently, coincided with great high-road that led
along the northern shore the lake. two three the houses
there were large quantities fish bones, the same species those
which now live the Kara-koshun. Amongst other things also
found wheat and rice, and parts the skeletons sheep.
another the houses, built sun-dried brick, and resembling
stable more than anything else, came upon large quantity
papers and letters written over with Chinese writing. This was grand
discovery. These ancient documents would throw flood light upon
the history the place. prosecuted our labours with double zeal.
But these were the only manuscripts found, and they lay buried under
feet sand. the same place, however, dug out forty-two small,
narrow wooden wands, also written over with the same kind writing.
return home sent these materials the learned sinologue, Mr.
Wiesbaden, who now deciphering them. soon had
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242 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902,
made preliminary examination them, Mr. Himly wrote saying that
the data and other indications pointed period between the middle
the third and the beginning the fourth century objects
themselves appear have belonged wealthy Chinese merchant, who
supplied commodites every description, let out carriages and beasts
burden hire, besides conveying letters Tun-kwang, Sa-chau.
Travellers going the latter city used horses, carriages, and even oxen.
One the documents appears contain allusion military cam-
paign, but gives indication date. Amongst the geographical
names mentioned find the very one which designates the country
here question, viz. Lau-lan.* The inhabitants must also have been
engaged agriculture, for one the principal items the manuscripts
consists weights and measures some them also name
this the other kind corn. Possibly there once stood the site
where the manuscripts were found old revenue office, sort
grain-bank,’ where grain was bought and stored, received security
for loans advanced. The papers exhibit one strange peculiarity, being
written both sides—a practice which does not now obtain
China either writing printing.
any case, the collection manuscripts which you have brought
home with you one great interest, even the (‘hinese, and will
unquestionably form the subject scientific speculation for some time
come. Some the sheets are nothing more than simple exercises
others consist fragments only. both cases the style
writing differs but little from that which now use China. The
wooden wands have this advantage over the paper manuscripts, that each
contains one more complete sentences as, for example, antelope
delivered, such and such quantity seed-corn has been handed in,
many men have been furnished with provisions for month,
longer. judge from one passage, the official who lived this place
would seem have governed pretty large province. The passage
runs thus: approaching army met the frontier (or the
shore?) forty officials, and the farmsteads are many.’ seems also
have had two native chieftains close dependence upon him. The
majority the dates the manuscripts fall between the years 264 and
270 265 the emperor Yiian-te the Wei dynasty died, and was
succeeded the north China Wu-te the Tsin dynasty, who died
270. Most the copper coins that are legible are what are known
wu-chu pieces, variety which was struck between 118 and
581 Numerous other pieces belong the mintage, which
goes back Wang-mang, who held the reins power between and
Thus the dates the coins agree fully with the indications
date conveyed the letters and the wooden wands.”
the following article Mr. Macartney.
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THREE EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902, 245
These few observations Mr. Himly, his first cursory exami-
nation the materials which have brought home with me, will serve
indicate the value the information which have been instru-
mental unearthing from the sands the great desert Central Asia.
For one thing, they throw unsuspected light upon the physical and
political geography the interior Asia during the first centuries
after Christ, and show what prodigious changes have taken place
that part the world during the last fifteen hundred years. The name
the writings Edrisi, and learned mandarin
Kashgar, whom showed the manuscripts, told that, according
the old Chinese geographies, the country round the present Pityan,
near was formerly called Lau-lan. Read connection with the
physico-geographical investigations which have made into the move-
ments the lake Lob-nor, these historical data are inestimable
value. Not only they give information about the country
Lau-lan the northern shore the ancient Lob-nor, but they also
throw light upon several unsolved problems connected with the region
which lies halfway between China and the countries
tell there was regular post between Lob-nor and Sa-chau, and, conse-
quently, there must have been route regular communication through
the ancient road which ran from Korla alongside the
Concheh-daria, where previously discovered chain brick towers
(pao-tais), well the fort Merdek-shahr, acquire entirely new
importance the light these more recent facts. Numerous ruins
exist also Yin-pen, another important station that same highway.
question agriculture, having been followed ancient times
Lau-lan, one very great interest. How was possible carry
iton? Not one rivulet flows down from the Kurruk-tagh
not one drop rain ever falls from the sky. Canals, irrigation
similar those which are found all over Eastern the
present day, must have been made from the river which flowed into
grain-banks spoken still exist every town Eastern
Turkestan, under the control the Chinese authorities, and serve the
purpose securing equal distribution bread amongst the natives.
four villages only, one them consisting not more
than nineteen houses; but there reason why the desert should
not yet yield many other valuable remains. The mention
forty officials, military expedition, and many farms, points the
inference that Lou-lan was well-peopled region. Possibly the people
dwelt perishable reed-huts, they the present day. Time,
however, will not permit linger longer this interesting subject.
must return journeyings. soon arrived the ruins,
sent the camels back get pasture and fetch ice.
Upon their return, the end week, broke camp, and
marched southwards, beginning what turned out most interesting
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and instructive journey across the desert. own party consisted
one Cossack, three Mussulmans, and four camels. The rest sent,
under the command Faysulla, who had accompanied the year
before, the south-west, with instructions try and get Kum
chappgan. this, however, they failed, being stopped vast sheets
water quite recent formation, that they were driven far west
the Tarim. And was consumed with anxiety about them until
learned they were alive, though they lost all their horses and
ran short supplies. Meanwhile our party had difficult and
tedious task perform, namely, take exact instrumental measure-
ments for determining the slope the desert from north south; that
say, from the northern bank the ancient Lob-nor the northern
shore the existing lake Kara-koshun. The contours the region
were, however, peculiarly favourable for our purpose, being level
the sea, except for the furrows scooped out the wind, that was
able continue measurements direct line, without hindrance.
The distances between the levelling instrument and the staff were
taken with the tape, and the total distance worked out miles.
This cost eight long days’ work, and course obliged all
but took four camels with us, chiefly carry ice.
the very first day had adventure which might have
proved disastrous. myself started early, with assistants and
levelling instruments, after giving orders one the men follow
with the camels couple hours later, make détour round us,
and then meet the appointed camping-ground. One the camels
carried, amongst other things, all maps and note-books.
worked all day, and measured miles and 1196 yards, and that
distance there was fall only inches. When darkness set
the caravan was nowhere seen, and made big signal-fire
the edge the dead forest, which happened just there come
end. Shagdur set out hunt for the caravan. had missed
was doomed, and our situation, too, would very critical, for
had not one drop water with us. fortunately our signal-
fire was visible great distance, and the camel-driver turned
the course the evening with everything all right.
That same night storm got the east, and compelled
strike work for the whole the next day. But Shagdur had not
returned, However, was provided with compass, and was
quite familiar with methods mapping, had not the slightest
anxiety his account. turned out, did take the precaution
noting his compass bearings the moment left the camp, and
during the course the next day turned all right. This
regard triumph native intelligence, secing that the region was
perfectly flat, without any distinctions contour, and violent storm,
accompanied impenetrable fog, was raging all the time.
THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 245
soon the storm subsided, continued our levelling operations,
and the end another day had descended feet inches.
fact, crossed over depression which lies 26} feet below the level
our point departure. During the two following days again
ascended feet inches, but during the last three days once more
descended something like feet. The result the cubic measure-
ment showed that the surface Kara-koshun lay feet inches
below our point departure the northern shore the ancient lake
Lob-nor. the same time must not forgotten that during
great part the second and third days were down below the
present level Kara-koshun, and that our camp the second day
our operations was pitched feet inches below the point
departure. Without stopping analyze exhaustively the results
this remarkable survey over miles, will only pause observe
that proves the most conclusive way the existence the northern
part the Lob desert depression with depth precisely similar
that which sounded Kara-koshun.
Upon reaching the northern shore this latter lake, our labours
came end, and our next step was hasten back
where the main body the caravan was supposed encamped.
had instructed Tokta Ahun, one men, three days north-
east and there light signal-fires for our guidance.
But were see these, and the country grew perfectly
barren approached the lake, sent Khoda Kullu, another
men, westwards, foot look for them, and guide them the
moment found them. But for several days nothing more was heard
him, and as, the mean time, were reduced few ducks
which Shagdur managed shoot, resolved follow after Khoda
Kullu. But after going one day’s journey along the lake-shore,
were stopped vast sheet water, stretching towards the north-
east, which could neither see across nor get across. Just when
were becoming hopelessly entangled amid this labyrinth waters,
perceived three horsemen coming galloping from the north-east. The
riders were faithful Cossack Chernoff, Tokta Ahun, and Khoda
Kullu, the man sent out search the caravan. The latter,
appeared, had travelled for five days reaching the encampment,
and when did arrive was half dead with hunger. Now, strange
say, the encampment went quest was all this while not more
than miles distant from our own, and had there not prevailed dense
fog during the whole this time, assuredly should not have missed
secing their signal-fires. will appear almost incredible that Khoda
Kullu should have taken five days ride matter only miles, but
the fact was there lay between the two camps newly formed arm the
river, flowing with volume upwards 1130 cubic feet water
the second. ourselves were hemmed both sides this
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246 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902.
stream. the water flowed northwards prodigious rate, forming
new lake went, took four days get roundit. had cost the
mounted men three days’ hard riding reach us, and returned
found their horses’ hoof-marks already under water, some places
depth inches. Indeed, the water bubbled and boiled along
such rate, and over such wide stretch country, that was
dangerous encamp anywhere near its margin. Consequently, were
obliged travel halfway back the ruined villages before could
turn tothe west. After that bent round the south, until, finally,
reached the caravan encampment, and found there everything needed.
The lake Kara-koshun, which thus gradually disappearing
the place where Prjevalsky found it, slowly creeping northwards,
seeking return its ancient bed, where, perfectly convinced,
will found great distance time.
That such great changes these are able take place this part
the world, which measurements have shown almost perfectly
horizontal, not all surprising. The lake Kara-koshun, which
has occupied its present situation for very long period, getting
choked with mud and drift-sand and decaying vegetable matter
while, the other hand, the northern part the desiccated desert
being eroded and furrowed the winds, and thus growing deeper
and deeper every vear. The basin which serves the terminal
reservoir the Tarim system must necessarily extremely sensitive
these changes level, determined they are purely mechanical
laws and atmospheric depression strictly local character.
simply physical necessity that the water that reservoir must
ultimately overflow its basin and seek relatively lower level. Thus
the action the wind, total transformation the map the
district. the lake moves, the vegetation and the various
animals the desert. They, well the fisher-folk, with their reed
huts, follow after the new shores, while the old lake gradually dries
up. the far-off future the same phenomena will recur again, but
the reverse order, though the natural laws which will effect the reversal
will remain precisely the same. Whenever that occurs shall
position determine, the basis more complete accumulation
data, what the length time required for these periodic move-
ments. This, however, know already, with perfect certainty,
that the year 265 the last year the reign the Emperor
Té, the lake Lob-nor lay the northern part the desert.
is, were, the oscillating pendulum the Tarim river,
and even though each oscillation extends over space thousand
years more, yet, measured the clock geological time,
know that such periods are more account than many seconds
time.
PART THE NORTH SHORE BANGGONG-TSO.
NORTH SHORE KUM-KOLL.
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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 247
After the completion this journey, pitched camp the
little town Charkhlik, the edge the desert, and gave myself
month’s much-needed rest. Meanwhile, however, organized and
equipped the largest caravan have ever led into regions.
comprised Mussulmans, Cossacks, Mongolian lama from Kara-
Shahr, camels, horses and mules, asses, sheep, and dogs.
Both men and animals were the very pink condition, and
picturesque and imposing array they made, for was the most con-
siderable caravan ever conducted European into Tibet. And yet
how different was its appearance the end the year! How deci-
mated and shattered
sent the caravan, under the command two the Cossacks,
well-known trails over the mountains which run along the northern
boundary Tibet, and the great plateau that country.
myself, taking with the other two Cossacks and some the horses,
rode the bed the little river Charkhlik, most disagreeable
road, encumbered was with loose stones. One day crossed the
stream less than sixteen times, getting several wettings doing
but did not lose anything except one horse-load supplies. Finally,
after instructive journey over many difficult passes, reached the
western shores the lake Kum-koll, the appointed rendezvous.
June beheld the distance the long black line the
caravan slowly wending its sinuous way towards us. was
pleasure watch them battling through the storm, while the water
the lake, crumpled into big waves, was dashing against the shore.
The two Cossacks command, Chernoff and Cherdon, putting their
heels into their horses’ sides, galloped ahead tent and reported,
military style, that all was safe, and then the whole party filed
past procession, which took them good hour accomplish, the
camel-bells meanwhile jangling solemn harmony. And when they
were all settled down into their new quarters they gave the lake-side
the busy market.
plan was march southwards until reached region with
tolerable pasture, and there establish fixed camp basis from which
carry further operations. difficult piece country still lay
between and the Arka-tagh, the highest mountain range the face
the Earth. The ground was soft and gave way under the animals’
feet, and got entangled bewildering labyrinth exasperating
small hill ranges, where were again and again obliged turn back
and retrace our steps. Every day sent pioneers advance
reconnoitre and find out the best route for the caravan take.
one place lost thirteen another nine: but saved their
loads, and packed them the horses, though not before had cut
them down considerably. Upon reaching the foothills which stretch
front the mighty chains that form the Arka-tagh
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248 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902.
rested couple days reconnoitre and search fora pass. Here the
animals got the last bite pasture they ate for long, long time.
had just finished putting our tents and yurts (or Kirghiz
tents), and turned the animals loose graze, when Chernoff came
tell there was big bear trotting towards the camp, seemingly
utterly indifferent the strange intruders his domain. Two the
Cossacks seized their weapons and ran meet him. Their shots rang
out both the same moment. Bruin sprang round, turned tail, and
set off hill-slope. followed after him horseback. But
before reached the top his strength failed him. fell, and came
tumbling down the bottom the slope like ball. was
old male, dark grizzly colour, and had been hunting through
the marmots’ earths. judge from his hollow teeth, must one
time have been furnished with formidable jaws. kept his skin and
skeleton, and had them preserved.
From our encampment the north side the Arka-tagh,
sent home ten men and such the asses survived, and then continued
march over the repellent mountains which, experience, have
always been formidable surmount. made our way through
sterile valleys littered with gravel, battered every day violent storms
snow and hail and rain. this way the animals’ strength became
more and more exhausted proportion their burdens were made
heavier and heavier.
The final slope the summit was extremely precipitous, and
were repeatedly brought standstill the exhausted camels.
The snow lay deep all around, and howling snowstorm made im-
possible see the road front us. Three camels fell just below the
pass, and were unable get again, that slaughtered them
and left them, and two others shared the same fate the summit
the pass. did not doom them until was unmistakably certain that
their strength was utterly expended, then put end their suffer-
ings, red stain the snow showing where their bones would soon
lie bleaching under the terrible winds those awful altitudes.
Once over the pass the Arka-tagh, pushed south through
absolutely unknown region, where crossed innumerable mountain
chains, over passes stupendous height, skirted the shores in-
numerable lakes, and forded innumerable rivers, but almost the whole
time through barren country, totally devoid that every
day the caravan animals grew more emaciated. continued shoot
yaks, wild asses, and antelopes, and consequently were want
meat. The Cossacks also kept the camp supplied with partridges and
wild geese.
The same parallelism the mountain ranges which prevails
throughout the whole higher Asia characterizes the region which
now speaking—that say, the chains run from west east,
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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL 1899-1902.
and were travelling from north south, had consequently
cross over every them.
camp No. weeded out the twelve worst camels, besides
number inferior horses, and left them follow after
slower pace, under the charge the Cossack Chernoff and four Mus-
sulmans. Then, taking with the rest the caravan, pushed
all the faster towards the south.
Rain and snow had made the ground soft pap; indeed, was
though the earth were attenuated like the atmosphere, and were
unable sustain any weight. one the worst passes big camel
literally sank right into the bog, and could not rescued. Every
time endeavoured approach the spot where lay ran the
greatest risk sharing the same fate. could only hope that the
next day, when the surface the ground was stiffened little the
frost, might able sheer force drag the poor beast out
the slough despond into which had fallen. But during the
sank deeper and deeper, and length died, frozen fast into the
odious, treacherous morass which was engulfed. Another camel,
although perfectly well and sound, absolutely refused move, and
few blades grass growing, the hope that would stay there and
rest until Chernoff picked him up. But unfortunately Chernoff this
place made and consequently never saw the camel. This was
the only animal ever left behind alive any numerous
journeys.
camp No. yielded bit tolerable pasture, stayed there
two three days rest. Whilst were there the Cossacks chanced
catch sight bear, and whilst following him came upon
Tibetan encampment three men, with horses and yaks. Cos-
sacks hurried back bring the news me; and once sent them
again, with the lama act interpreter, glean some informa-
tion about the region were in. when they reached the place
the Tibetans were gone, and our horses were not good enough
condition admit our following them.
learned afterwards that the Tibetan hunters posted off south-
wards and told the nearest native chiefs that army Russians was
approaching from the north. Hence our arrival was known long before
suspected it, and sharp look-out was being kept throughout the
country north Lhasa and along all the roads which led that mystic
city. strongly suspected that this encounter with the Tibetan hunters
would bode good. Accordingly, when found there was very
good pasture camp No. 44, besides traces recent nomad encamp-
ments the neighbourhood, decided make that main camp
base for further expeditions. the same time made haste com-
plete Mongolian equipment, and after having made quite sure
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250 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902.
the position the camp astronomical determination, July
started for the south, accompanied the Buriat Cossack Shagdur and
the Mongolian lama. left Sirkin charge the camp, with instruc-
tions move some other place soon the pasture was done,
and when that was finished move again third place, and
on. But was always leave behind him every encampment
report what was going do, that might able follow
the caravan. Mongolian equipment was very simple consisted
two small cases, tent, provisions for few days, some Chinese
silver, and few surplus furs, everything being Mongolian manu-
facture. lived also genuine Mongolian fashion. However,
also took with few small note-books, aneroid barometer,
thermometer, compass, and chronometer, not obliged
discontinue observations. whom behind looked upon
the undertaking piece madness, and thought that surely had
taken leave senses. For the first two days Ordek accompanied
us, keep watch upon our animals that for any rate
two nights might sleep peace. The animals had with were
five mules and four horses. the end our second day’s ride,
when had left the camp miles behind us, had head shaved
bare billiard ball, and moustache cut off altogether. looked
horrible; but then was something like genuine Mongol, especially
after the lama had for several days smeared face with grease, till
was partly black and partly brown. were all good spirits.
Our tent was pitched neck land between two lakes, one salt, the
other fresh, and the horses and mules, guarded Ordek, were peace-
fully grazing short distance away. About midnight Ordek came
rushing into the tent, and woke with the cry
Robbers!” snatched our rifles and revolvers and hurried out,
but the dim moonlight was barely suflicient show some mounted
men hurrying away over the nearest hills, taking with them two
our horses. All thought pursuit was, course, out the question,
because, for aught knew, our camp might even then surrounded
whole band thieves. therefore sat round the fire and
talked till daylight, when struck camp and travelled farther
towards the south-east. Poor Ordek had trudge the miles back
camp foot. men there looked upon lost for good and all.
But left instructions with the Cossacks that, did not return within
three months, they were make for Kashgar and report. the third
day made long march, and the evening perceived some Tibetan
horsemen keeping watch upon our movements from
this time onward made practice divide the night into three
watches three hours each, that each had his three hours
sentry-go. Fortunately, had two first-rate helpers Yollbars
and Malenki, the two biggest and fiercest dogs caravan possessed.
THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 251
And always pitched our tent that the animals were tethered
the side that was against the wind, for was from that quarter that
night visitors might expected, and the dogs were tied one each
end the camp-line. Never shall forget those interminably long
night-watches, when tramped backwards and forwards between
Yollbars and Malenki listening every the least suspicious sound.
had not the slightest difficulty keeping awake; any moment
might suddenly fallen upon. Many and many time the dogs set
fearful barking. Thereupon would hear noise certain direc-
tion, and would creep towards it, revolver hand. Then the dogs
would stop barking, and everything become still again.
the third night heard horses’ hoofs, and the dogs became very
uneasy. But the vicinity revealed nothing sus-
picious. rained cats and dogs, and when watch was over was
wet the skin. And even crept into the tent could hear
the sweet little rivulets rain trickling amongst our few precious
belongings.
Our fourth day’s march led through uninhabited and very hilly
country. rained torrents both day and night without once
ceasing. confess never saw such rain. Our tent stood
little lake. for there was moon, which was able
shed gentle diffused light through the dense masses cloud that
hung the sky, and its means were enabled keep sight,
though was not altogether easy so, the line animals tethered
front the tent. During turn watching two the mules
contrived get loose, and had end business running hill
and down dale catch them again.
the fifth day our march very long ride, passing
the way caravan Mongolian pilgrims. Late night came ‘to
black tent, the owner which, Sampo Singhi, shepherd, gave
friendly reception, and sold sheep, which suffocated hold-
ing his fingers its nostrils. also gave cream and sour milk,
that for the next few days fared quite sumptuously. the course
the following day’s march forded the river Satyu-sangpo,
that time tremendously swollen the rains. was the worst fording
river have ever experienced. The water its deepest part came
the pommel the saddle, and little more than our horse’s head
and neck was visible above the raging flood. The mule which carried
the two cases was swept away the current, and floated good dis-
tance down-stream, upheld the cases, which acted
bladders. horse slipped into deep water, and gave thorough
drenching before got bis feet again. Our encampment the
opposite bank was tragi-comical description. Not dry
wood was had, the dried dung, refused burn, and was
impossible move foot without splashing into pool water.
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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902.
The next day, the seventh our journey, crossed wide, open
expanse, bounded the far distance range low mountains, and
overtook caravan three hundred yaks, led thirty Tibetans, and
laden with Chinese tea for Tashi-lunpo the Bramahputra (Sangpo).
The eighth day carried over couple very high passes, beyond
the second which entered region fairly well peopled with
their black tents dotted the clefts and slopes all the moun-
tains the vicinity. The next evening pitched our tent sort
corrie beside brook, and had the south the mountains
which overhang Tengri-nor the north. had now travelled
distance 180 miles from our main camp. Thus far were destined
go, but further. For just before got quite dark were
surrounded Tibetans, who announced that were their prisoners,
and that one step further would cost our lives. Our lama was
panic terror, and believed should instantly
accordingly halted, and awaited passively the progress events.
Thirty-seven sentinels were posted round our tent. saw the
Tibetans’ fires through the mist every direction, but more especially
the road towards Lhasa. next day, too, kept tolerably
quiet upon perceiving band fifty-three mounted men, armed
with long black muskets, swords, pikes, and lances, spring like
mushrooms out the ground, and gallop extended order towards
our tent. Uttering the wildest yells, war-whoops, they
charged straight down upon us, but, swinging off both sides, drove
past, then wheeled round, and came back again like hurricane,
flourishing their pikes over their heads. After that they pitched their
tents close ours, and began shoot. This they did, would seem,
inspire with respect. Our impression was, that, they intended
take our lives polite manner, was scarcely necessary levy
many people it.
After while this later band arranged themselves little troops,
and rode off the direction from which had come. They were all
dressed black and red cloaks; the officers wore big white hats, while
the remainder had red bands round their heads. rule, however,
the bareheaded, and never have their hair either combed
cut.
Meanwhile were treated with the greatest friendliness the
first-comers. old lama assured that had nothing whatever
fear; the Dalai Lama had given orders that should treated
with the greatest consideration, and that all needed the way
provisions should provided free cost. Accordingly they brought
milk, butter, and lard their bowls, and presented with more
mutton and firewood than knew what with, nor would they
any kind payment whatsoever return. the course
few days, said the bombo,” governor, the province Nakchu
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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 253
would arrive, and then should know our fate. due time the
said high official put his appearance, and soon saw large village
white and blue tents spring alongside the road Lhasa. Through
his interpreter, who spoke Mongolian, the governor
grand banquet his tent, but answered that, see me,
was liberty pay visit. Accordingly, the course the
afternoon, perceived crowd horsemen gallop out from amongst
the tents and towards us. consisted
governor Nakchu, and Nanso Lama, accompanied several other
dignitaries, besides officers and soldiers armed for
seven them all, each man mounted and dressed handsome cere-
monial robes. question whether they ever clearly understood who
was; but, the pomp and ceremony they assumed, was evident
they imagined somebody out the common was disguised beneath
tattered Mongolian garb. Kamba-Bombo rode first, surrounded his
staff. wore costume yellow silk, had red head-dress and
Mongol boots green velvet, and was mounted big grey mule,
with costly saddle, and had his saddle-cloth embroidered with silver
and turquoises. dismounted, and, followed throng his
officers, greeted politely, and, stepping into our wretched tent, took
his seat bag maize.
All these men carried swords, suspended from richly chased
ornamented with corals and rubies. They wore, further, gavos
(or talisman cases) round their necks, and were adorned with rings,
bracelets, and other finery, and had their hats trimmed with feathers.
honest lama was completely overcome all this magnificence,
and kept his eyes the whole time fixed the ground.
Meanwhile Kamba-Bombo was the very best humour, now that
had completely his power, and declared categorically that,
matter who were, must retrace our steps did not wish to.
have our heads cut off, the same time drawing his hand significantly
across his throat. found was perfectly useless argue with
had imperative orders from the Dalai Lama. Thereupon pre-
sented with couple horses, flock sheep, and some provisions
—gifts priceless value, which, however, was totally unable
return—and appointed escort three and twenty men
accompany far the river our way back.
With these men were soon the most friendly footing, that
when they left felt quite melancholy.
last, August 20, reached our main camp, thankful that
were still safe and whole life and limb. For, although had not
had the good fortune reach the Holy City,” comforted ourselves
with the thought that had done our utmost get there, even
the extent risking our lives that object.
With the full strength caravan once more behind me,
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254 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902.
proceeded southwards different route, being firmly resolved not
turn the west until should compelled absolutely
insurmountable obstacles. But did not get very far before once
more had the Tibetans upon us. They sprang every side, their
numbers increased, and they rode close-ordered troops both flanks
our caravan; then they disappeared, and anon reappeared, racing
past full gallop.
With these bands lived upon sort war-footing, and every
night posted strong guards outposts round our camp. were but
scantily supplied with ammunition; but luckily shots were not ex-
changed. When showed signs continuing our journey, the
Tibetans sent deputation me, begging me, touching terms, not
proceed further. When they found their request was unheeded,
they hurriedly despatched couriers Lhasa. Meanwhile proceeded
our way.
One Mussulmans fell sick while were the shore the
camel, and that way took him with when marched again. But
one afternoon, few days later, when stopped for the day, found
him dead his living bier. the following morning buried him
according Mohammedan ritual, our molla reading prayers over his
grave out the Koran. The Tibetans watched our proceedings from
distance. They thought were making deal unnecessary
fuss over dead man, and advised fling the corpse out the
wolves. Subsequently witnessed how they did throw out dead
body devoured vultures and ravens.
Later that same day there was another rift the lute. Hladyeh
and Yunduk Tsering, two the Dalai Lama’s ministers
members his devashung (or council) Lhasa, came direct from
the Holy City, bringing with them 500 mounted men, and against such
force had inclination declare war. These officials read
proclamation from the Dalai Lama, which, amongst other things, con-
tained the following passage: Let letters sent with all speed
Nameu and Naktsang, that Russian can have permission travel
any the roads Nakchu and inwards far kingdom extends.
Let letters sent all the chieftains. Watch the frontiers Nak-
tsang. absolutely essential guard strictly every part the
country. entirely unnecessary that any European shall enter into
the kingdom the holy books and spy out the land. your provinces
they have nothing whatsoever do. they say they have, then
know they must not travel Lhasa. And they travel, then shall
you lose your head. See that they turn back the way they
came.”
Autumn was now approaching, and had long way
reach Ladak. Nevertheless, stayed where was until had mapped
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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902. 255
Naktsang-tso and Selling-tso. Thus for ten days longer were
honoured with the company our escort, though lived
the best terms with its leaders. visited one another every
day, and they arranged play horseback),
honour, gave horses and sheep, and throughout treated with
the utmost politeness. Our united camps presented imposing
spectacle, with their sheets tents, their innumerable fires, their
troops horses and horsemen. While caravan, escorted the
Tibetans, marched from the eastern shore the lake Chargut-tso,
round the northern shore, and Kutchuk the boatman crossed
boat take soundings, the arrangement being that the caravan was
look out for the western extremity the lake. But more dis-
agreeable voyage has never been lot participate in. When
the caravan disappeared behind the mountains which shut the
lake the north, and were far out the water, were overtaken
violent westerly storm, and was only dint the very greatest
exertions that managed reach tiny rocky islet; and there
were kept prisoners for forty-eight hours. last the tempest subsided,
and continued our voyage night, making soundings
moonlight, with the aid lantern. Next morning the storm broke
out afresh, and again took refuge similar rocky islet. the
afternoon the same day once more started, but only just managed
reach the western shore, through having battle for our very lives
with third tempest. only just escaped being wrecked; and,
utterly exhausted our exertions, slept that night the desolate
lake-side, and, after going for one day more, were seen the men
whom the leaders own caravan sent out search us.
return camp was greeted the Tibetans with shouts joy.
absence they had manifested the utmost uneasiness, and
kept incessantly asking the where had gone to. The latter
length told them had rowed the southern side the lake,
had there procured horses, and ridden Lhasa. Instantly they sent
out patrols fifteen twenty men ride round the lake,and even
farther the south. the mean time and Kutchuk were
quietly smoking our pipes the tiny islet the middle the lake.
now they were convinced had not escaped them, their delight
knew bounds. They met horseback and conducted
triumph their tents, where, under the protection their idols
Buddba, and the light their oil lamps, was entertained the
most sumptuous manner.
this juncture Hladyeh Tsering and Yunduk Tsering, and great
part their mounted force, took their leave us. Nevertheless there
was still considerable escort left, and these men remained with all
the way the frontier Ladak, although their numbers gradually
dwindled, until the middle December there were only twelve men
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256 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA,
left. But that time they were fully satisfied that seriously meant
leave their country. Time, however, will not allow giving
further particulars about this wearisome journey three months’
duration, right through Tibet from east west. was time
severe trial for both man and beast. strong west wind lay right
our teeth the whole the time, and chilled the marrow with its
icy blasts. The pasture was miserable the extreme, and every day
lost camels horses, both; but, fortunately, the Dalai Lama
had given orders that should kept supplied with many yaks
needed. travelled between lofty mountain ranges, lakes
grew less and less frequent, and the cold was intense. also lost yet
another men, making the fourth die during this surpassingly
trying journey.
the middle November there was scarce one-third left the
imposing caravan with which started from the other side the Arka-
tagh. The country travelled through was sparsely inhabited
nomad tribes but were everywhere received with friendliness and
politeness, notwithstanding that almost the whole Tibet was
arms because attempt reach the Holy City. fear must have
caused them fearful amount trouble.
November the thermometer registered degrees frost
the Fahrenheit scale. After crossing uninhabited and almost water-
less region, reached, the end the month, the river
and then followed down far the temple-village Noh, situated
beautiful valley, thickly clothed with bushes and other vegetation,
that the evenings had magnificent fires sit round. One day
about this time lost four out our five surviving horses, and
another three camels.
After that travelled for six days along the shores Tsongombo,
one the most remarkable lakes have ever seen. resembles
Norwegian fjord, and generally only mile two wide, though
occasionally its width diminishes less than quarter mile,
and one two places actually not more than yards
wide. enclosed framework steep and lofty mountains,
and presents some magnificent scenery. was covered with sheet
had sound from the frozen surface, over which was
drawn improvised sledge, made out one the halves
collapsible boat. Our route took along the northern shore. one
place the cliffs plunged down into the water precipitously that
looked for time should unable proceed further. The
pass which led over the mountain was impracticable for hoofed animals,
and the lake was this spot quite open water. But the extreme cold
was ally our side. had but wait two three days for the
ice thicken, and then drew the baggage past the place danger
improvised sledge.
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TSO-NGOMBO WESTERN TIBET.
TSANGARSHAR RIVER WESTERN TIBET.
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THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902—DISCUSSION. 257
After that skirted along the northern shore Panggong-tso.
lake formerly belonged the basin the Indus, but now cut
off and divided from low pass, which acts threshold. Con-
sequently its water the present saline, and the lake
free from ice. Its fresh-water molluscs are the high-road ex-
tinction. Its former beach-lines are, however, wonderfully well defined.
the frontier Ladak found large relief caravan, sent
from Leh meet us, and here the last our Tibetan escort turned
back home, after having performed their mission more than satis-
factory way. Then, with two the Cossacks bear company,
pushed Leh forced marches over the passes Dugub
and Jimreh. The temple Jimreh stands shelf, high cliff,
overlooking the valley the Indus. Here the lamas had secrets
preserve, but showed everything, and even took into the
very holiest nooks their shrines.
spent Christmas with the hospitable missionaries
invitation from Lord Curzon, Viceroy India, whose acquaintance
made several years ago. ‘This meant journey over 260 miles
horseback Srinagar Kashmir, and another 200 rail Rawal
was hard ride, being the depth winter, ard led over
the pass Zoji-la, which always dangerous, and that season
the year generally only companion was the
Cossack Shagdur. crossed the pass foot, and all went well.
The danger lies the fact that the road leads through sort gorge,
which apt partly choked with falling avalanches. The tramp
through the pass took four days, and had hundred coolies
carry baggage. really great wonder came out alive,
considering how many the native Ladakis lose their lives this
pass every Fortunately managed get over before was
definitively closed the snow. When returned from India the gorge
contained far greater quantity snow. Then from Leh journeyed
over the nasty pass Kara-korum, some 19,200 feet above sea-level,
where Dalgleish was murdered some years ago, and then struck down
Yarkand and Kashgar. there, dissolved what remained
caravan, and its members, Christian, Buddhist, and Mussulman,
scattered the four winds, each his home various parts Europe
and Asia.
Before the paper the have amongst this evening our old
friend and colleague, Dr. Sven now five years since was with us,
and during that time has done amount work traveller which
has equalled himself—we cannot say more than that—in his former expedition, for
which received the Royal medal our Society. But consider that has
done much more than that. has shown himself scientific geographer
the very highest merit—as linguist, observer, and historian. Our Council this
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258 THREE YEARS’ EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902—DISCUSSION.
afternoon has considered the very great merits Dr. Sven Hedin, and has decided
award him once our Victoria medal instituted for the highest record
geographical research. glad able announce this Dr. Sven Hedin
and the meeting. will say more now, but will call upon Dr, Sven Hedin
address the meeting.
Dr. Svex have begin expressing deep and sincere thanks
for the very kind words which Sir Clements Markham has addressed me,
for the great honour receiving the Victoria medal, which very
proud, and which will try worthy the future. think great
honour, also, invited the Royal Geographical Society address you once
more; and very glad hear Sir Clements Markham call old friend.
feel old friend here not foreigner, but old colleague the
Geographical Society. have been Central Asia for several years—it long
time. have not had much practice with your beautiful and charming language.
not able, during the description journey, find the right words
the right places, perhaps somebody will help that you may know what
mean. certainly not possible give detailed description journey which
has taken three years and three days hour half; and shall not
able give the contents the paper which published one the next
numbers the may tell you that writing book about the
journey, and this book will published next year. The scientific results will
published three four years
Dr, Sven Hedin then proceeded give his paper, illustrated
over hundred lantern-slides.
After the lecture, the called upon Prince Kropotkin speak.
gives great pleasure comply with Sir Clements
Markham’s request speak the description the journey which was made
Dr. Hedin Central Asia. only say that delighted add voice
the many voices praise which Dr. Sven Hedin must have heard all over
Russia (where lectured Russian before very large audience)
Germany; his own mother country; and last England. This journey
covered certainly ground that had been explored very great extent
French, and English travellers, and the journey which undertook for reaching
could not continue till its end. Like all other explorers, was com-
pelled, when was almost, say, sight Lhasa, return; whereupon
took the route Ladakh, which had been followed once Littledale. But the
interest his journey has not been lessened the fact that did not reach
Lhasa. was but very few days’ journey from that capital Tibet, and
had crossed, during his attempts penetrate far this capital, the most
interesting parts Northern Tibet. crossed the great border ridge, Altyn-
tagh, and also those immense chains mountains where find, remarks,
almost the highest mountains the world, least high the Himalayas.
Very probably Sven Hedin will change the direction these mountains,
are shown this large map (of the German General Staff) running west and east,
and his surveys will surely very much alter the whole aspect the country
represented this map. They will surely show that the mountains are
running directions from the north-west the south-east, and when his
determinations altitudes are calculated, shall see what tremendous plateaus
had cross between the border range and the spot where was turned back.
his levelling the Lob-nor desert, and the discoveries which
has made the country Lob-nor, they will certainly throw new light
the changes which have been going the basin this great
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THREE EXPLORATION CENTRAL ASIA, 1899-1902—DISCUSSION. 259
Asian lake. With regard Lob-nor, will permit myself remark that
not think that the lake Kara Koshun—that is, the Lob-nor Prjevalsky—can
considered anything else but the present remainder from the great lake Lob-
nor. But what appears almost quite certain, after Sven Hedin’s surveys,
levellings, and discoveries, that there was first time when Lake Lob-nor
covered the whole the triangular space which limited the west the
southward course the the south-east the Lake Kara and
the north-east the escarpment the Kuruk-tagh, which runs north-west
south-east direction, The place the Sixty Springs, Altimish-bulak, which
had been visited previously the Russian explorers, and lies, according their
determinations, altitude 3600 feet, stands the border the escarpment,
and the triangular space the escarpment, the river, and the plains
which spread the foot the Altyn-tagh, must have been occupied some time
large basin, upon the shores which stcod that spot the Lau-lan region,
which Dr. Hedin has found such interesting manuscripts. on, the lake
occupied the eastern part only that triangular basin; and now the Lake Kara
the Lob-nor represents the southern trough that
depression, which continues still occupied what has survived the Lob-
nor. any rate, when the full reports and the levellings Dr. Hedin are
published, and the whole region better explored, will certainly appear that
within this triangular depression Lob Nor desert” Stieler’s Atlas map) the
lake was changing its position proportion decreased, and may change
several times more before the general desiccation Central Asia, which going
great speed, will finally move the Tarim lake further south-westwards
meet the Cherchen, and finally reduce what will remain the Lob-nor the
little lake Kara buran, which see the junction the Yarkand-daria with the
The journeys which Sven Hedin has made are certainly event
the exploration Central Asia; and must only congratulate him, and express
him our warmest thanks, and the thanks all the geographers the world, for
the remarkable journeys which has made, for the accuracy the description
which has given, and for the mass information which can expect from the
publication the full scientific report this journey, and which will even surpass
what have found the reports his former journey published few years ago.
The There are several other authorities present who might have
addressed the meeting, but too late, afraid, continue the discussion
therefore only remains for acknowledge Dr. Sven Hedin the great pleasure
that have derived from his admirable descriptions the country has traversed.
has, however, given adequate idea the perils and hardships through which
went collecting this information nor has given any adequate idea the
diligence and care with which, day day, mapped the country and took regular
and most valuable observations. did not mention whether suffered from being
great heights. now gather from him that never felt the sickness often
experienced the ascent mountains. asked him because have just received
letter from Mr. Douglas Freshfield, who maintains that this feeling sickness
great heights differs with individuals the same way sea-sickness differs with
individuals. some suffer very seriously, others heights 20,000 feet
not feel the sickness from Dr. Sven Hedin that one those
who never suffered all great heights. Prince Kropotkin has fully described
you the great importance the work that has been done Dr. Sven Hedin,
that only necessary allude his discovery ruins, and the interesting
manuscripts that were found them; and the care took levelling
the plain where the great lake once existed, show you the vast
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260 NOTICES, FROM CHINESE SOURCES,
and historical importance the work that bas done. And those are only two
instances out many. sure, therefore, that the meeting will unanimously
pass vote thanks Dr. Sven Hedin for his most communication.
Dr. may once more express hearty thanks for the great
kindness shown this evening the Council the Royal Geographical
Society, for the great honour bestowed upon the Victoria medal, which
will great and precious souvenir this evening. And very glad,
also, have almost heard how silent has been the hall duriag lecture.
have got the silence and the attention the audience, and that
most agreeable feeling for lecturer. hope shall able the future
more details about this journey. was very poor and short description could
give you now. very glad and happy hear the kind and eloquent words
addressed to-day Sir Clements Markham, and the extremely kind opinion
Prince shall very glad from this evening keep words
memory. sorry that any other Asiatic specialists who are present here did
not get time speak. probably too but hope another time they will
get opportunity talking about Central Asia.
The may mention the that Dr. Sven Hedin
publishing his atlas, will consist two volumes maps besides text, and
trust that the wealthier portion our Fellows will subscribe this most valuable
and important geographical work.
NOTICES, FROM CHINESE SOURCES, THE ANCIENT
KINGDOM LAU-LAN, SHEN-SHEN.
GEORGE MACARTNEY, C.LE.
his lecture delivered before the Royal Geographical Society
December last, his Years’ Exploration Central Asia,”
Dr. Sven Hedin gave graphic description the ruins ancient
town the border the old Lob-nor. Amongst the finds brought
home him from this site were many Chinese manuscripts, which
have been identified the second and third centuries Some
these manuscripts bear not only the dates, but the name also the
locality where they were written. This name Lau-lan, and the know-
ledge this fact one special interest. The actual name Lau-lan
well known modern Chinese geographers, but hitherto, apparently,
neither they nor savants Europe have been able fix with anything
like accuracy the position the country anciently called that name.
Mr. Wylie, Chinese eminence, 1880 had computed
this position 39° 40' lat. and 94° long. Now, this would
show error approximately 250 miles are right under-
standing that the place where Dr. Hedin found the Chinese manuscripts
bearing the name Lau-lan was about 40° lat. and 90° long.
The more accurate localization Lau-lan, now possible, may,
hoped, lead some useful results the identification other
neighbouring countries whose ancient names are known, but whose
positions are still puzzle modern geographers.
4
THE ANCIENT KINGDOM LAU-LAN, SHEN-SHEN. 261
the Tsien Han-shu History the First Hans’) and the records
Fa-Heen and Hsian-Tsang were consulted, should find many
places mentioned therein, with their distances given with reference
Lau-lan.
Thus, the Tsien (written roughly between 100 and
50) mentions the following distances: From (capital
Lau-lan) the Yang barrier (evidently the direction
1600 li; Chang-an, 6100 li; tothe seat government the Chinese
governor-general (name not given) north-westerly direction, 1785
li; Si-an-fu, 1365 li; Keu-sze (Onigour) north-westerly
direction, 1890 li.
(fifth century the record his travels, gives the
following distances: From Shen-shen Lau-lan Tun-huang, about
marches, 1500 Wu-e (Urgur?), marches foot north-
westerly direction.
From Hsian Tsang learn that Lau-lan, which also calls Na-
po-po, situated 1000 north-east Chémo-té-na, also
Nimo.
will seen from the above that the site can serve
point reference for determining the position several other places.
Perhaps the indications given above may prove use subse-
quent surveyors.
this far from all that can learnt about Lau-lan from Chinese
records. The Tsien Han-shu tells that China began intercourse
with this country the reign the Emperor Wu-ti
whose time the western boundary the empire would seem have
extended further than the Yang barrier (possibly Tun Huang) and
the gate (modern Chia Kuan?). The vast country lying beyond
these places was designated the Chinese geographers the epoch
under the vague term Si-yu (western region), which they supposed
divided into thirty-six different are told there
were two roads from China this region. That Lau-lan,
skirting the river (lower the north the Southern
mountains (Altyn Ustun and leading west Sa-ché
the southern road. That the Palace the Anterior Keu-tse
(Onigour 1890 from Lau-lan), following the river the
direction the Northern mountains (Tien Shan) far Su-lch
(Kashgar) the northern road.”
The watercourse the Tarim basin described the following
terms: river (Khotan Daria?) runs northwards till joins
confluent from the Tsung-ling (Onion range, Sarikol), and then flows
eastwards into the (lit. Calamiferous lake), which
also called the Salt marsh. This over 300 from the gate and
the Yang barrier, and 300 length and breadth. The water
stationary, neither increasing nor diminishing summer winter.
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262 NOTICES, FROM CHINESE SOURCES,
The river then said run underground and issue again Tseih-
shih, where becomes the Yellow river
The following précis the account found the Han-shu
the political relations between China and Lau-lan during the first
century
The Emperor Wu-ti, are told, was desirous cultivating inter-
course with Ta-wan and adjacent countries, and repeatedly sent
ambassadors there. had pass through Lau-lan, but the people
Lau-lan, concert with the Ku-tse, harassed the officials the
high-road, robbed and attacked Wang-Kuei, one the envoys. More-
over, the Lau-lans made themselves objectionable the Chinese
acting spies for the Heun-nu and several occasions aided
these the pillage Chinese travellers. All this was not
tolerated. Wu-ti, therefore, prepared expedition against the dis-
affected state. Chao Po-nu was sent with army 10,000 men
punish the Ku-tse, whilst the envoy Wang Kuei, who had suffered
several times the hands the Lau-lans, received orders act
Chao lieutenant. latter, advancing the head 700
light horse, seized the King Lau-lan, conquered the Ku-tse, and,
relying the prestige his army, overawed the states dependent
Wu-sun and Ta-wan. The Lau-lans soon submitted, and sent offerings
tribute the Emperor Wu-ti. But their submission gave offence
their allies, the Huns, who lost time attacking them. this,
way satisfying his two powerful neighbours, the King Lau-lan
sent one his sons hostage the and another the Emperor
China. Thus ended the first episode the relations between China
and the kingdom question.
3ut more troubles were store for Lau-lan. The Emperor
for some reason other, had send another punitive expedition against
Ta-wan and the The found the Chinese army formidable
that they deemed prudent avoid any direct encounter with it, but
this did not prevent them from hiding troops Lau-lan, the inhabitants
which did not cease league with These troops con-
stantly harassed the army Wu-ti. The Chinese soon got wind
Lau-lan’s secret coalition with the Huns, and accordingly the general.
Jen-wan, was sent chastise them. Jen-wan proceeded the city
gate, which was opened him, and reproached the king for his
treachery. The king, excuse, replied, small state lies
between two great kingdoms, must perforce make alliances with
both, can have peace; but now wish place kingdom
within the bounds the Chinese empire.” Confiding these words,
the emperor re-established him the throne, and commissioned him
keep watch over the movements the Huns.
will remembered that one the sons the deceased king was
THE ANCIENT KINGDOM LAU-LAN, 263
hostage the Chinese court. Now the Lau-lans made petition the
emperor for the return the hostage prince, order that might
succeed the vacant throne. prince had not, however, been
persona grata with the emperor; fact, all the time was China
had been kept honourable confinement the Silkworm House
Palace. therefore happened that the petition from Lau-lan was not
favourably received Wu-ti, but the answer returned was that
diplomat. tenderly attached,” said Wu-ti, “to attendant
prince, and loth allow him leave and the emperor
suggested the petitioners that they should the next son the
deceased king the royal dignity.
This the Lau-lans accordingly did. But the new king’s reign was
short one, and his death the question succession again came
the front. This time the Huns, who, will remembered, had also
hostage prince from Lau-lan their court, thought their opportunity
had come regain that state the influence they had lost. They
therefore sent the prince back and established him the throne. This
successful alarmed the Chinese, who endeavoured, bribery and
intrigue, recover their ascendency. They made direct attempt
dethrone the Hun’s protégé, but sent envoy him requesting him
pay visit the Chinese court, where, the envoy said, liberal gifts
would bestowed him the emperor. But the emperor and the
envoy little suspected that they had reckon with woman’s cunning.
The step-mother the king was hand, and she advised him, saying,
Your royal predecessor sent two sons hostages neither
them has ever come back, and reasonable that you should go?”
The king thereupon dismissed the envoy with the words that, having
newly acceded the throne, the affairs the kingdom were engaging
his attention, and that could not attend the Chinese court before
two years.”
far there had been open hostility between the new king and
the emperor, although, undoubtedly, relations between them were
strained. But now the event which was put end Lau-lan
independent state was imminent. the eastern border
Lau-lan, where this kingdom was continuous with China, there
piace called the Peh-lung mound. place was the high-road,
vid Lau-lan, from China the western regions, and suffered from
drought and had pasturage. The Lau-lans were frequently called
upon the Chinese furnish guides, carry water and provisions
this spot for passing officials. the discharge these duties, the
inhabitants were often exposed the brutality the Chinese soldiery.
Friction was thus created; but the situation was made worse the
ever secretly instigating the Lau-lans against the Chinese.
Finally, the Lau-lans resolved break off friendly relations with Wu-ti,
and forthwith murdered some his envoys whilst passing through
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Lau-lan territory. This act treachery was reported the Chinese
court the king’s younger brother, Hui who, having made his
submission the Han monarch, was scheming oust his elder brother
from the throne. Accordingly, 77, the Chinese general, Fu-
keae-tsu, was sent Fu-keae-tsu hastily selected
few followers, and, having spread report that was going
ncighbouring state mission friendly inquiry, and had presents
with him for the king, journeyed Fu-keae-tsus
arrival, the king, who suspected nothing, invited him sumptuous
feast. Whilst the king was intoxicated, gave signal his
followers, and the king was stabbed the back. His head was severed
from the body and suspended over the northern gate the city. Hui
reward for his treachery, was set king the place
his brother, and the kingdom was re-established under the new name
Shen-shen, for which brevet investiture was prepared.
nothing might wanting the prestige the new ruler, one the
ladies the imperial court was bestowed him consort, and
Hui leaving the Chinese capital for his kingdom, was accorded
send-off marked with every honour. Thus was established. But
did not feel himself secure his new position. Being Chinese
protégé, was looked upon with suspicion the people over whom
nad been called upon rule. Moreover, the late king had left son,
and Hui Tu-chi lived fear assassination him. Tu-chi
therefore petitioned the emperor establish military colony Lau-lan,
the city E-tun, where, said, the land was rich and productive.”
This was done, and the emperor sent cavalry leader with forty
subordinates cultivate the fields E-tun and soothe the people.”
Thus was the rule the great Han monarch extended over the state
Lau-lan, Shen-shen.
the epoch when these chronicles were written, which, pre-
sumably, was about the time the birth Christ, the kingdom
Shen-shen, are told, contained 1570 families, forming population
14,100, 2912 trained troops.
the physical features the country, the Tsien Han-shu says
(translation Mr. Wylie)—
“The land sandy and salt, and there are few cultivated fields.
country relies the neighbouring kingdoms for cereals and agri-
cultural products, The country produces jade, abundance rushes,
the tamaria, the vermicifera, and white grass. people
remove their cattle for pasturage wherever they can find sufficiency
water and herbage. They have asses, horses, and camels. can
fabricate military weapons, the same the people
much, then, for the information contained the Han-
shu. what Heen says regarding Lau-lan, which passed
through the fifth century his way from China India
RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES. 265
procure the sacred books The translation that
Dr. Legge—
After travelling for seventeen days, distance may estimate
about 1500 (from the pilgrims reached the kingdom
Shen-shen, country rugged and hilly, with thin and barren soil. The
clothes the common people are coarse and like those woven our
land Han, some wearing felt, and others serge cloth hair.
king professed our law, and there might the kingdom more than
4000 monks, who are all students the hinayana (small vehicle
salvation). common people this and other kingdoms this
region, well the sramans (monks), all practice the rules India,
only the latter more exactly, and the former more loosely. Here
the pilgrims stayed for about month, and then proceeded their
journey, fifteen days’ walking the north-west bringing them the
country Wu-e. this there were more than 4000 monks, all students
the hinayana.”
passed through Lau-lan his return
from India, two centuries later than Fa-Heen, but his notice this
country extremely meagre. are merely told that, after leaving
the walled but deserted town Nimo, travelled
1000 north-easterly direction, and reached Na-po-po, which
the same Lau-lan.”
RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST
Dr. TEMPEST ANDERSON.
will the remembrance every one present that May, 1902,
severe volcanic eruptions took place St. Vincent and Martinique,
both which islands form part the chain the lesser Antilles
the West Indies. The Royal Society appointed committee investi-
gate the eruptions, whom had the honour being nominated along
with Dr. Flett, Petrologist the Geological Survey, proceed
the scene the eruptions and report them. our report, read
before the Royal Society November 20, have already entered
fully into the description and discussion the phenomena observed
will better, therefore, this paper content myself with
résumé the chief points, with special references the geographical
changes produced.
The islands the lesser Antilles, from Saba the north
Grenada the south, form the summits chain mountains about
two-thirds submerged; for while their highest peaks reach eleva-
Read the Royal Geographical Society, January 12, 1903. 348. The
descriptions the plates will found the end the paper.
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266 RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES.
tions barely 5000 feet above sea-level, the depth the Caribbean
sea the west over 10,000 feet. They occupy the summit great
fold the Earth’s crust, and are almost entirely volcanic, the chief
exception being Antigua and small portion.of the eastern part
which, with Barbados, appears form part another fold
more the east, which not Other volcanoes occur the
mainland the west the Caribbean sea, one which Guatemala
has also recently been eruption. Earthquakes had taken place
the region surrounding the Caribbean sea during some months
previously, and has been concluded that the readjustments the
crust which gave rise these have also been connected with
the eruptions St. Vincent and
The island St. Vincent oval, the long diameter being nearly
north and south. about miles long and miles wide.
mountain chain stretches along the main axis the island, and reaches
height varying from 2000 4000 feet, the highest point being
just over 4000. entirely composed volcanic materials, the beds
dipping away from the central mass all directions towards the sea.
They consist chiefly tuffs and agglomerates—in fact, fragmentary
materials resembling those discharged from the Soufriére during the
recent eruptions. Among them are many ejected blocks enormous
size, even much feet diameter, showing that some
the former eruptions must have been explosive like the late one, but
grander scale. are comparatively few, but not entirely
absent, and dykes are rare.
the southern part the island volcanic action has long been ex-
tinct did not see any remains such having
apparently been removed Towards the northern part
the island, however, the great mass the mountain, the
summit which crater almost circular form, about mile
diameter. This, which called the old crater, appears have been
the chief, not the only, site the recent eruption. the north-
east the old crater, and only separated from narrow ridge,
the so-called new crater, which was active 1812. only about
one-third mile diameter, and doubtful whether took any
part the last eruption. the north these craters, and partly
encircling them, old crater-ring, which bears the same relation
them Somma does Vesuvius. The name Morne Garu was
formerly applied indiscriminately all this mountain range, but now
has become restricted peak some distance the south the main
crater, while the name appears always given the
active cone.
the south the main craters, and between them and Morne
Garu, great depression system valleys extends right across the
island. side this occupied the Dry river and
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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES. 267
its tributaries, which drain into the sea the windward coast north
George Town. The western, which rather more extensive, much
into deep valleys and ravines, often with almost precipitous
sides, which flow the rivers and torrents, which are often dry, and
the names Wallibu, Wallibu Dry river, Rozeau, Morne Ronde,
and Larikai. The rocks which this part the mountain com-
posed are almost entirely tuffs and agglomerates formed fragmentary
material, similar that ejected from the volcanoes during the recent
eruption. saw few beds lava, but they were chiefly exposed
the deeper parts ravines, and were obviously much older date
than the more superficial portions. This great transverse valley, and
especially its western portion, the valley the Wallibu, received the
greater part the products the eruption, amongst which saw
lava, and not believe any was erupted. considerable number
ejected blocks were noticed, but the great bulk the material consisted
fine sand and fact, lava blown pieces the sudden ex-
pansion gases. The trade-wind blows steadily from the
east north-east, and certain amount the finer particles would
the wind and deposited the Wallibu valley. considerable
amount was also driven directly upwards violently through
the whole thickness the trade-wind and get caught upper
current the reverse direction, which was carried the east
far Barbados and the surrounding sea. certain quantity fell
the north slopes the volcano beyond the Somma ridge and along the
east coast far beyond George Town, but the greatest deposit
which saw, and comparison with which all the others were trivial,
was the Rabaka and Wallibu valleys.
The tropical rains cut deeply into the soft strata which form
the cone the Soufriére and the slopes its foot, and have produced
series branching valleys with steep almost precipitous sides, and
separated the narrowest fact, often mere knife-edges.
The whole, before the eruption, was clothed with the most luxuriant
tropical Into this series valleys was discharged from
the Soufriére black cloud, heavily laden with incandescent dust
that might most fitly described incandescent avalanche.
The mechanism its production discussed below, but its immediate
geographical effect was fill the Rabaka and Wallibu valleys and some
their tributaries depth some places great 200 feet. The
motion the mass was sufficient prevent any large amount hot
sand being deposited the ridges, while the hollows received the
greater the whole was smoothed over the blast, and lay
rolling masses like drifted snow. Thus the course single
The nature these will form the subject special report the Royal Society
colleagne, Dr, Flett.
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268 RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES.
day, probably much less, the whole the vegetation this part
the mountain was utterly devastated, and the valleys were filled
with deep new deposit incandescent sand. This was the first and
most obvious geographical alteration.
When arrived the scene month later, secondary changes
had taken place very marked extent. The wet season had set
earnest, and much inches rain had been one period
twenty-four hours. Denudation was taking place prodigious
scale. surface was everywhere scored with rain-furrows, which
joined together sort feather-pattern into larger streams, which
had cut deep channels into the soft and these again united
form rivers, which some cases had re-excavated the old channels,
but others had cut new and quite independent ones. The amount
denudation that had been accomplished this short space time
seemed incredible one accustomed the leisurely rate change
temperate climates. The Wallibu had excavated new bed the hot
ash nearly feet deep, and had left places many five six
terraces mark successive stages its excavation, and the Rabaka
the east side cut corresponding gorge. Nor were the changes
yet complete; were seeing them still progress, and
obtaining photographs many the most striking phenomena. When
the weather was fine little change was seen, though the ash was
still smoking, and hot enough places even the surface burn
the bare feet our porters. Most the river-beds were then also dry,
but brisk shower rain changed all this. The water came down the
rivers torrents and undermined the steep banks. This started land-
slides hot ash, which fell into the river, and explosions steam
enormous scale took place. Showers hot mud were thrown
height perhaps 150 feet like great geysirs, and great clouds
steam, laden with brown dust, rose height many hundred feet,
and were carried away sea the trade-winds. Nor was this all:
the fallen ashes often dammed the streams, and when the water last
overcame the obstruction descended longer water, but
gush boiling-hot mud, which made the river-bed temporarily im-
passable, and built alluvial fans the mouth the river. One
day when ascended the Soufriére, crossed dry river-beds without
difficulty the morning when the weather was fine, but returning
the afternoon, heavy rains having fallen the mean time,
river was full boiling mud, and were only able cross the
aid bridge which our men constructed trees killed the
eruption, and this saw carried away great gush boiling
mud soon after had got over.
The spots from which these explosions had taken place, when
sufficiently cooled approached safely, were also interesting. They
formed bowls funnels from perhaps feet feet diameter,
PLATE
THE
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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIEs. 269
however, were seldom perfect, one side had generally been
the stream cut its way deeper, and left the remains
was low cone débris, consisting the stones and larger fragments
which had been thrown and fallen down around it, while the lighter
sand was carried away the wind. These new valleys, with their
details—the terraces and steam-bowls and the associated fans and
deltas—constitute another geographical
The shore deposits deserve separate mention. the windward
coast especially, the amount sand brought down the streams
had been great that for miles new beach had been formed
the mud carried along the coast the waves, where formerly
the sea reached the foot the cliffs; but this will doubt eventually
washed away again.
looked carefully for signs general upheaval depression
land, but without finding any. The rise and fall the tide amounts
only about feet, and the sea has made very definite marks along
the face the cliffs where they happen composed lava hard
tuff. were satisfied that alteration level more than few
inches could have taken place, and our boatmen, who knew the place
well, were the same opinion. There was, however, one very re-
markable instance local subsidence which deserves notice.
the mouth the Wallibu valley, the leeward side, extending
from Richmond village the south Mcrne Ronde the north,
distance above mile, there was formerly low foreshore, along
which ran the main road. was described having been
covered with palm trees and luxuriant tropical growth, and studded
with numerous picturesque villages, which nestled beautiful little
bays. Similar places still exist just the devastated area
Chateau Belair, Rose Bank, Barruali, and Layu.* Behind the foreshore
the land rose steep bluffs composed fragmentary volcanic deposits
like the rest the Wallibu district. the day the great
eruption the whole this foreshore subsided into deep water, and
slopes here are very steep, probable that the earth-
quakes connected with the eruption set landslides, with the above
results. possible that there may have previously been fault
along the line the foot the bluff, which determined the actual slip,
and this might account for hot water rising here, which
vave the name Hot-waters one spot; but, whatever the exact
cause, this subsidence geographical change worth mention.
The next geographicgl change noted was that the crater has been
somewhat enlarged, especially its southern lip, but not any con-
spicuous extent; has lost its clothing vegetation, but this will
The last beyond the map.
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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES.
soon renewed, and its contained lake has been discharged, but
already beginning fill again. Any one who knew before and
visited now would notice considerable change, but, deferred
his visit for few years, would probably see marked difference.
Another curious little secondary result deserves notice. Water will
hold more mud suspension when flowing down steep slope.
The water the steeper upper parts the valleys was charged with
mud the utmost, but where descended more gentle slopes, and
consequently moved more slowly, could not carry much, and
deposited part, especially where moved slowly the side the
stream. saw two places where dams had thus been formed across
the mouths small lateral valleys, and small lakes large ponds had
been produced. the dams were only soft mud, these may only
temporary but have seen permanent lake several acres formed
this way Iceland, bank shingle brought down rapid
glacial river. Dr. Flett thinks, and agree that the explanation
feasible, that these lateral dams are the remains the avalanche which
filled the valley during the eruption, and that the centre part only has
since been washed away.
watercourse formerly existed which supplied all the plantations
the Carib country the east windward slope the mountain with
water taken from the Rabaka river high up. The river has now
changed its course, and water enters the conduit, which, moreover,
places blocked with ashes. however, can doubtless
remedied, but, far goes, geographical change. The planta-
tion buildings were not sufficient size for their destruction
geographical importance, and the black population will, according all
previous experience, return after the cessation the eruptions.
the whole, the permanent geographical changes St. Vincent
are comparatively small. remains discuss the mechanism the
eruption but this will better considered along with that Mont
Pelée.
Turning now the consideration Martinique, may remark
that our instructions were proceed first St. Vincent and devote
our chief attention that island. This did, but later went
also Martinique, for the purpose making such examination
would enable compare the phenomena the two volcanoes.
There remarkable similarity between the islands St. Vincent
and Martinique. Both are roughly oval form, with the long axis
almost north and south. The north-west portion each occupied
volcano, the and Mont Pelée, more strictly called Montagne
Pelée, which have many points common. Both volcanoes show
single practically single vent, remarkable absence parasitic
cones, and scarcity dykes. both transverse valley exists
the south the volcanoes, and the main discharge ejecta during
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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES. 271
the recent eruptions, which have often been nearly synchronous, has
been into this depression, and especially into its westerly portion.
both islands the recent eruptions have been characterized paroxys-
mal discharges incandescent ashes, with comparatively few larger
fragments and complete absence lava.
There are, however, few points difference. The eruptions
St. Vincent have been altogether much larger scale than
those Martinique. The area devastated was considerably larger, the
amount ashes ejected probably ten times great, and the loss
life was not large, this accounted for the absence populous
city the foot the mountain. such city had existed the
mouth the Wallibu river St. Vincent the position corresponding
with that St. Pierre, there can that would have been
completely destroyed that unfortunate city. While both volcances
show practically single vent, this much more marked the case
St. Vincent, where excepting the new crater, which really
part the old main one, there not single parasitic cone.
saw fumaroles, hot springs, nor any trace radial cracks and
fissures.
Mont Pelée, true, the main activity confined restricted
area about the summit the mountain, and the top the great
fissure which extends extended from this down the direction
the Blanche and there are parasitic cones comparable, for
instance, those which are numerous Etna; but there are many
fumaroles, which Prof. Lacroix and his colleagues speak emitting
gases hot enough melt lead, though not copper wire. telegraph cable
has been three times broken the same place, and the broken
ends one occasion, any rate, showed marks fusion the
insulating are also several hot springs. Judging
from these and other indications, most probable that radial cracks
entered deeply through the substance the mountain, and penetrated
even the submarine portion its cone.
Flows mud have also played much more conspicuous part
Mont Pelée than St. Vincent. Quite early the eruption great
flow this kind came down the Riviére Blanche and overwhelmed the
Usine Guérin, which stood near its mouth, that now nothing remains
but the upper part the chimney stack. probable that some
least these mud-flows may have been due the discharge the
small crater lake which existed before the eruption, heavy rains,
the water either case behaving manner comparable what
saw the Wallibu; but, any rate, they more prominent
part the descriptions these eruptions than those the
Soufriére.
Not only has the amount erupted material been much less, but its
distribution has been much more local than St. Vincent, and this
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272 RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST
accounted for the great fissure the top the valley the
Blanche, which communicated with the main pipe the volcano, and
out which the eruptions took place. This fissure, which was mentioned
existing the eruption 1851, pointed almost directly towards St.
Pierre, and the erupted material flowed out almost like fluid, was
directed straight down the doomed city. The lowest portion the
lip the crater the Soufriére was much broader and more even,
the incandescent avalanche which descended from was spread much
more widely.
The latest accounts from Prof. Lacroix indicate that the recent small
eruptions Mont Pelée have filled the highest parts the fissure
and formed cone, which covers most the former crater. any
further eruption, therefore, the avalanche incandescent sand will not
confined the district the Blanche, but may descend
any side the mountain.
now more strictly geographical details, wonderful
how small have been the changes produced, smaller than even those
St. Vincent.
The north end St. Pierre completely buried dust levelled
with the ground, that nothing remains visible the ruins the
houses except certain protected situations, and the plateau rising
the north the town towards the foot the mountain also
covered. difficult state the exact depth, but certainly
inconsiderable comparison with the 200 feet the Rabaka, even
the feet the Wallibu. Further the south, the centre the
city St. Pierre, the amount ashes was much less; great deal has
been already washed away, but doubt ever was more than
feet thick average, and Morne the south end,
was quite insignificant—only few inches. The destruction St.
Pierre itself the incandescent avalanche, and the hot blast and
attendant conflagration, event intense human interest being
attended the sudden death over 30,000 persons, but from the
point view the physical geographer can hardly called con-
siderable, neither can the carrying away few small bridges, nor the
formation small mud delta the mouth the Riviére Blanche.
remains now discuss the nature these peculiar eruptions.
They belong type which have hitherto been imperfectly, all,
described, and were fortunate enough witness distance,
least close was safe, one the characteristic eruptions Mont
Pelée, and thereby confirm the views which had previously formed
observation the effects those the Soufriére.
arrival Fort France found that the devastated area
the north the island was still almost entirely unoccupied. The
greater part the St. Pierre and the neighbourhood had
been killed the eruption, and the few survivors were only returning
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slow degrees. was therefore impracticable make our
operations land near the scene eruption. Fort France was
far away available, except ruinous expenditure time and
money going and fro. was therefore determined engage
sloop, provision it, and live board, moving day any point
where landing was desirable, and retiring night some safe
anchorage within reasonable distance. devoted our first day
examination the ruins St. Pierre, and the evening moved
about miles south along the coast and spent the night anchor off
Carbet, just the limit the area devastation, spot command-
ing full view the mountain. Next morning returned
Pierre, and moored the sloop one the buoys the north end the
town. Dr. Flett landed and further examined the ruins, while re-
mained board and took photographs the magniticent cauliflower
masses dust and steam which were frequently ejected from the great
triangular fissure above mentioned. Later the afternoon sailed
further north along the coast, still taking photographs Mont
which was clearer that day than ever saw before after, and
showed great perfection the deeply eroded valleys with which its
slopes are scored. ‘They much resemble those corresponding position
the slopes the St. Vincent, and appear formed
the same way strata similar composition, viz. fragmentary ejecta
from the volcano which had consolidated form soft tuffs, and had
been eroded into their present forms ordinary atmo-
spheric agencies.
have ventured thus write narrative form leading
the occurrences that memorable evening. returned and sailed
slowly south past the base the volcano, witnessing and photographing
many small explosions and their cauliflower clouds dust, and thus
twice crossing the track the eruption which took place later.
anchored before off Carbet, and watched the sun set behind the
clouds ashes ejected the volcano. When approaching the horizon
and thus viewed, the sun appeared sickly yellowish-green, and
pale that could looked with the naked eye without discomfort.
Later on, after sunset, the gorgeous after-glow appeared, and the thin
clouds the western sky with most brilliant red, beginning
perhaps 40° from the horizon, while the part below still remained
yellowish-green. Later still,as the sun sank further below the horizon,
the yellowish-green area sank also, and only the reds remained, till
they too sank out sight, and gave place the light brilliant
three-days-old moon. had sat deck absorbed watching this
superb spectacle, and were just guing begin supper, when one us,
looking towards Pelée, said, That cloud different the others. It’s
quite black, and I’m sure it’s coming this way.” few moments’ ex-
amination confirmed this, and, the captain’s attention being called
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274 RECENT VOLCANIC THE WEST
all, passengers and crew, heaved the anchor quickly possible,
and set all sail. The black cloud had meanwhile rolled down the side
the mountain the sea, and came quickly towards us.
had not moved moment too soon. The upper slopes the moun-
tain cleared somewhat, and some big red-hot stones were thrown
then saw the triangular crack become red, and out poured
surging mass incandescent material, reminding nothing much
big snow-avalanche the Alps, but vastly different tempera-
was perfectly well defined, did not all tend rise like
the previous cauliflowers, but rapidly down the valley the side
the mountain which had clearly been the track previous eruptions,
till certainly less than two minutes reached the sea, and was there
lost view behind the remains the first black cloud, with which
appeared coalesce. and the slopes the mountain were
doubtless deposited the greater part the incandescent ash, while the
steam and gases, with certain portion still entangled stones and
ash, came forward our direction black cloud, but with much
greater rapidity than before. The sailors were now alarmed, nay,
panic-stricken, got out the oars and pulled for their lives. Meanwhile
the cloud came nearer and nearer; was well defined, black, and
opaque, formed surging masses the cauliflower type, each lobe
rolling forward, but not all with one uniform rotation; bright scintil-
lations appeared, some the cloud itself, and some like little flashes
light vertically between the cloud and the sea which rested.
These were clearly the phenomena described the survivors the
St. Vincent eruption the sea,” occurring the black cloud
which overwhelmed the windward side that island. examined
them carefully, and are quite clear that they were electric discharges.
The scintillations the body the cloud became less numerous and
more defined, and gradually took the form vivid flashes forked
lightning darting from one part the cloud another. The cloud
rapidly gained us. When had got within perhaps mile
mile—for difficult estimate distances sea and bad light
—we could see small material falling out sheets and festoons into
the sea, while the onward motion seemed chiefly confined the
upper part, which then came over our heads and spread out advance
and around us, but left layer clear air our immediate neighbour-
hood. was ablaze all the time with electric discharges.
soon got overhead stones began fall deck, some big
walnut, and were relieved find that they had parted with
their heat and were quite cold. Then came small ashes and some little
rain. Eventually gained the harbour Fort France unhurt, and
the proposed ascent Mont Pelée next day, for which men had already
been engaged, was abandoned. cloud was also noticed Fort
France. was described like those the previous eruptions, but
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DEVASTATED
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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES. 275
two unbiassed observers, who had seen and that May, declared this
was the larger the two.
Our limited time was now coming end, but leaving for
Dominica two days later were able, from the deck steamer,
make some examination the slopes the mountain down which
had seen the incandescent avalanche descend. whole district from
just beyond St. Pierre near Précheur, distance about miles,
was covered with deposit light grey ash varying thickness,
perhaps averaging few inches, but evidently much deeper the
valleys the Blanche and Riviére Seche, which descend from the
mountain about miles beyond St. Pierre, and drain the slopes below
the large fissure out which saw the eruption descend. ‘The water
these rivers was boiling fell into the sea—in fact, was repro-
ducing small scale the phenomena boiling mud which are
described above the cases the Wallibu and Rabaka rivers St.
Vincent, though how far the mountain these Wallibu effects extend,
and where they give place true volcanic discharges, difficult
describe yet; must wait further observations Lacroix and
his colleagues.
teturning now the mechanism the hot blast and the source
the power which propelled it, both colleague and are convinced
the inadequacy previous explanations, such electricity, vortices,
explosions passages pointing laterally and downwards, explo-
sions confined and directed down the weight the air above. Such
passages into the mountain, which, effective, would require
caverns closed above, and not mere open ravines, not exist the
case the Soufriére, and are not aware that they have been ob-
served Mont Pelée; and the weight the air, this did not
prevent the explosions the pipe the Soufriére from projecting
sand and ashes right through the whole thickness the trade-winds
till they were caught the anti-trade current above and carried
Barbados. Moreover, the black cloud, saw emerge from Mont
Pelée, seemed balance itself the top the mountain, start slowly
descend, and gather speed its course, and the second incandescent
discharge followed the same rule. believe that the motive power
for the descent was gravity, the case any ordinary avalanche.
The accepted mechanism volcanic eruption that molten
magma rises the volcano chimney. consists fusible silicates
and other more less refractory minerals, sometimes already partly
the whole highly charged with water and gases, which
are kept absorbed the liquid, partly the immense pressure
which they are subjected. When the mass rises nearer the surface and
the pressure diminished, the water and gases expand into vapour and
blow certain portion the more less solidified materials powder,
or, short this, form pumice stone, which really solidified froth,
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276 RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES.
and they are violently discharged from the crater. When the greater
part the steam and gases has been discharged, the lava, still rising,
finds vent either over the lip the crater, often through lateral
fissure, and flows quietly down the side the mountain.
quite recognized that these phenomena may occur various
relative proportions. The explosive phase may predominate, which
case only sand, pumice, and fragmentary material are discharged, with
perhaps ejected blocks torn from the sides the chimney, and this
case ordinary ash cinder cone built up. the other hand, the
magma may contain little vapour, and the lava may discharged
quietly and spread out widely sheet over the surrounding country.
Snake river basalts Western North America are this class,
and though they cover area larger than England and France com-
bined, eruptive cones craters have been found them, and
supposed that none ever existed, but that the lava welled out quietly
through fissures. Such fissures have seen Iceland, studded with
row quite small craters only. believe that these Pelean
eruptions intermediate phase occurs. lava which rises the
chimney charged with steam and gases, which explode usual, but
some the explosions happen have only just force blow
the mass atoms and lift the greater part over the lip the
crater without distributing the whole widely the air. ‘The mixture
solid particles and incandescent gas behaves like heavy liquid, and
before these particles have time subside the whole rolls down the
side the mountain under the influence gravity, and consequently
gathers speed and momentum goes. heavy solid particles are
gradually deposited, and the remaining steam and gases, thus relieved
their burden, are free ascend, was the case with the black cloud
which rose over our heads July
had concluded, from our examination the Soufriére, that some-
thing this sort most occur, but the explanation was obvious when
saw the eruption Mont Pelée. Dr. Flett remembers saying while
the eruption continued, avalanche,” and among notes
made while the Indies are the following: The cloud incandescent
material, saw welling out the great fissure, reminded
nothing much snow-avalanche seen the Alps. rolled
rapidly from the mountain-side well-defined billows, giving the
impression vast volume separate small particles mixed with
certain quantity air vapour, and, the case Alpine avalanches,
entangling more air its progress, and setting blast sufficient
overturn large objects its course.”
This effect avalanches compressing the air before them and
setting powerful blast, the effects which extend beyond the
area covered the fallen material, has long been recognized. Plate
shows group large trees overthrown the blast the great
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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES.
avalanche from the Altels the Gemmi pass all lay pros-
trate directions radiating away from the place where the avalanche
came down
The only which felt the sufficiency the above
explanation was the fact that these discharges slopes
and 12°, which are less than the angle repose for such
instance, not steep the side ordinary railway embankment
but thought that the entangled gases and steam might sufficient
account for the extra mobility the mass. When brought this
explanation the Royal was accepted satisfactory the
physicists present. Prof. Sylvanus mentioned con-
firmatory his having noticed that small particles silica, when heated
redness, move about the crucible like liquid; and Dr. Edward Divers,
letter Nature,* not only confirms this statement, but points
out that the liquid-like behaviour powders red heat most
marked cases where gases vapours are being given off minute
quantities the incandescent particles, which are thus kept surrounded
each thin envelope mobile gas, and this exactly meets the case
the particles question.
DESCRIPTION DR. TEMPEST ANDERSON’S PLATES.
These are all from Dr. Tempest Anderson.
PLATE
Tropical Vegetation. Chateau Belair, St. Vincent.
This view, taken about miles beyond the southern boundary the devastated
area, shows the luxuriant character the tropical vegetation which formerly covered
the whole district. hut the usual type negroes, the descendants
liberated slaves. consists wooden uprights, walls wattles, now generally
giving place boards, and trash” roof.
PLATE Il.
The Wallibu District from the Sea.
the distance Morne Garu; the middle distance the hot sand deposited
the eruption. The rolling, rounded character the surface shown, also the furrows
and gullies already cut the rain. foreshore which formerly existed here has
sunk into deep water, and the waves are cutting into the bluffs behind, and have ex-
posed section the new ash resting the old beds fragmentary material.
new beach process formation.
PLATE
the Wallibu Valley.
the distance are the slopes Morne Garu, with trees killed the
the foreground hot sand, marking the level which the valley was originally
filled, and some the successive stages its The hot sand still
steaming wherever water comes contact with it.
December 11, 1902, 126.
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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST
PLATE IV.
Steam and Ash Explosions, Wallibu.
This photograph was taken from above Chateau Belair, distance about miles
across the bay. the foreground are the two ridges which saved the village during
the eruption. Beyond them are seen the great clouds steam and ash sand, which
were only visible after rain. The mountain would visible were not con-
cealed the clouds.
PLATE
Rozeau Dry River flowing with Boiling Mud.
the background are beds new hot sand only few feet thick, and already
much washed into furrows the rain, which even cutting into the old banks.
the foreground, extending just below the bridge, gush hot mud
268.
PLATE VI.
The Mouth the Wallibu from the Sea.
Morne seen the distance, and the foreground the new fan
sand brought down the river; the middle distance small steam explosion.
PLATE VII.
The Site the Wallibu Subsidence.
The low cliffs the middle distance consist old tuffs with capping several
feet fresh sand, the product this eruption. the top are seen the ruins the
Wallibu factory, and the foot was formerly foreshore, perhaps 200 yards wide,
which were the high-road and number negro huts standing among luxuriant
vegetation. ‘The whole subsided the day the eruption. The new beach the
foreground has been formed since that time (in about month) material washed
from the cliffs and brought down the rivers.
distance the left.
The seen the extreme
PLATE VIII.
Beach outside the Devastated Area.
This introduced for the purpose comparison, show the sort place that
before the eruption the site the last photograph.
PLATE
Ridges the Soufriere.
This plate shows the ridges tuff the lower slopes the mountain the
windward side above Lot 14. Those the leeward side are similar. Higher the
slopes become steeper, the ridges narrower, and the gullies between them deeper.
‘The whole was formerly covered with luxuriant vegetation, which few charred
remnants are seen. the distance are the hills above George Town, and front
them the Rabaka Dry River, with one its branches the foreground the right.
PLATE
Lot 14. Devastated Plantation.
This was the highest plantation the windward side along the old Carib track
which led the summit the The trees are charred and stripped their
leaves. The factory unroofed, the machinery wrecked, and the waterwheel damaged.
Much sand about.
after th
still ste
great
unabl
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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST
PLATE
The Main Street St. Pierre.
photograph shows the condition St. Pierre July about two months
after the main eruption. iron beam and masonry columns all that remains
oue the principal shops. the distance part the north tower the cathedral
still the main part the building destroyed.
PLATE
Mont Pelée Eruption.
photograph, taken the afternoon July gives idea the
great black cloud which nearly overtook later the evening, and which was
unable photograph from absence light.
PLATE
Trees overthrown the Blast Avalanche.
great avalanche descended from the Altels mountain the Gemmi pass,
Switzerland, September, 1895. the end unusually long hot summer,
large portion the Altels glacier and snow-field slid down bodily, and carried with
quantity stones and The avalanche covered area above square
kilometre, and killed several men and 100 cattle. The Altels beyond the
right the plate, and the trees which were outside the area covered the avalanche
itself were overthrown the blast air which accompanied it. They all point
radially away from the Altels. few the left were protected the hillock, and
escaped.
opening the meeting, the made the following remarks:
meeting probably aware that the Royal Society commissioned two
gentlemen, Dr. Tempest Anderson and Dr. Flett, proceed the West Indies
and investigate the causes and effects the recent volcanic eruptions St.
Vincent and Martinique. They have already reported the Royal Society, but
Dr. Tempest Anderson has been good prepare paper for us, mainly
treating the subject from geographical point view, with regard the geo-
graphical effects the eruptions. will now ask Dr. Tempest Anderson
address the meeting.
After the reading the paper, the following discussion took place
Dr. Dr. Tempest Anderson has asked say few words you
regarding the map the Caribbean region, and regarding the nature the
geographical changes which have taken place St. Vincent and Martinique.
Some you have already seen this map. shows the chain volcanoes the
Antilles, and those which are present Guatemala, April,
very powerful earthquake, and since have had volcanic eruptions which have
devastated considerable part that country. The photographs Dr.
Anderson has shown will explain the nature the changes which had
taken place St. Vincent before got there. But you must remember that, since
left, important eruptions have taken place, and changes are going that
country almost unexampled rate. Vast quantities material are poured
out the volcanoes the course few hours, and then with great rapidity the
tropical rains wash them into the sea. There has been considerable devastation
since were there, and the whole north end Martinique has, the order the
French scientific men are now resident
governor, been recently evacuated.
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280 RECENT VOLCANIC THE WEST
Martinique, and they have erected observatory little west Carbet, from
which the changes the mountain are constantly recorded. have many
correspondents, including Mr. McDonald, Mr. Powell, Major Hodder, and many
others, St. Vincent and St. Lucia, and they have sent letters and photo-
graphs which show the nature the changes that are going on. was
great eruption St. Vincent October 15, and there was another November.
Since then the crater has been visited, and was found that the lakes were
replaced masses sand. The crater has been somewhat enlarged. The water
gathering the crater has now converted into lake boiling mud. ‘The
most remarkable change that recently described Prof. Lacroix,
the Scientific Commission. have had letters from St. Lucia describing
the gradual growth new volcanic cone, which got higher every day and
finally overtopped the rim the crater. When were there could see that
cone, coated apparently with large stones, the fissure which faces the harbour
St. Pierre, and night the cone could seen red hot. Prof. Lacroix and
the scientists have been there again within the last few weeks, and they
find that this new cone, which building itself within the crater, has most
remarkable seems pillar solid lava. Every now and then
pieces break off from the surface, and then they roll down into the interior the
crater floor, and expose the bright red surface the lava column. This shows
that the volcanic magma within the volcano Martinique highly viscous, and,
fact, has nearly consolidated. addition the strange black cloud,
have this curious block lava, which has risen right the centre the
old crater pit height least 900 feet.
Prof. sure you will all agree that the Royal Society was
particularly fortunate the two gentlemen whom obtained its commissioners.
Dr. Anderson not only, you have seen, most admirable photographer,
but suppose has made greater number clinical examinations
than any other man. Again, helped remove one very serious difficulty that
every scientific society feels—that say, the question expense—and did
this volunteering most liberally his own charges. Again, was great
good fortune obtaining the services Dr. lett, because has already made
reputation among petrologists that any man twice his age might happy have
won. These eruptions are not only great pathos, but also great scientific
interest. have heard, from what Dr. Tempest Anderson and Dr. Flett have
said, that they teach one very great lesson, and that how much more rapidly
sometimes both accumulation and denudation, and particularly denudation
loose materials, may carried on. That valuable lesson, because perhaps
this easy-going country are apt fall into habits thought which are too
not quite sure whether some our English geologists are
not sometimes too strictly uniformitarian. Perhaps some you have been the
Brohl-thal, and, so, you will remember the masses trass partly choking the
valley. always been puzzled know how any ordinary flood could have
brought the deposit there. This may have come down the mud came
down the Rabaka river, and been large extent cleaned away again.
Besides that, there are points that were only touched upon. hoped that
should have heard something more from Dr. this evening the peculiar
character that explosive avalanche. thinks—and appears the best
minerals the molten stuff, which was already rather saturated with superheated
water. the process crystallization the water thrown, were, out the
mineral forms. Now, mass magma crystallizes, there will
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RECENT VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS THE WEST INDIES—DISCUSSION. 281
the remaining part just half much water there was before, that the
material then had the pressure diminished, the water would begin separate
gas. little crystals scattered throughout the mass would make every
one locus, were, uncqual resistance. instead getting stony
froth you bad the uniform Krakatoa magma, you would get this stuff con-
stantly exploding. would just shattering left the volcano like
self-exploding shell. That, believe, Dr. Flett’s explanation, and believe
the true one. Then pointed out there were other explosions the volcanoes
around the Caribbean sea. That most fascinating question, but quite
sure that, this late hour the evening, were listening myself should
very glad when stopped, therefore shall toierant and say more upon
the question, for began not know when should end.
Prof. Jupp: sure that may make the same apology that the preceding
speaker has done, and that this late hour little need said. cannot
sit down without calling attenticn, not the important scientific details, which
would take too much time, but remind you those beautiful illustrations
that have had put before the art photography. Those who have
tried study voleanic phenomena the pre-photographic days will remember
that even the most beautiful illustrations published—even those Sir William
Hamilton—must always impress possibly being wanting truthfulness.
great artist, the presence those great convulsions Nature, cannot but
led welcome the truthful representations which the photographer
gives us, which are more accurate than those any artist can possibly be. be-
lieve was during the eruption Vesuvius 1872 that photography was first
applied record volcanic phenomena. Since that time much has been done. But
the best all that has been done, thiok may say, without
opinion being challenged any one,—the best all has been done Dr.
Tempest Anderson, who has visited almost every accessible district with bis camera.
How successful has been, how ably has done his work, the pictures
have all looked upon with much pleasure to-night have fully illustrated.
work that has done has been important indeed, that cannot
can ever surpassed until, not Dr. Tempest Anderson his successor
should bring this room succession pictures taken intervals few
minutes, and then we, the aid the cinematograph, could sit room like
the present and have the whole volcanic eruption passed before from beginning
end.
Prof. this late hour, the best thing can hardly say
anything all. are points that one would like talk atout,
and one begins one does not know where one would end. think there
thing about which are all agreed from what have seen and heard,
and that is, during the business hours volcano never call upon it.
The remains for the meeting pass thanks Dr,
Tempest Anderson for mest valuable paper beautifully illustrated, and
Dr. Flett for the additional information very great interest that bas given us.
propose, therefore, that accord Anderson and Dr. very
hearty vote thanks.
Dr. Allow thank you for the kind vote thank:
you have just passed me. Before started, one remarked me,
know, Anderson, you are sure killed, but will such very great
satisfaction you afterwards think that was the cause
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TWO TRIPS THE NORTH CHENG-TU.
LOCKHART JACK.
March, 1900, Dr. Jack, accompanied Morris and myself,
reached Cheng-tu way Shanghai and Chungking, inquire into
the mineral resources Sechuan behalf English company.
From Cheng-tu centre made three trips before were com-
pelled the Boxer troubles leave the country, and propose give
short account and route traverse those portions the two northern
trips that not appear have been previously mapped, though some
the country has been already visited and doubt described
missionaries. The first was the north-north-west from Cheng-tu,
through Pen-hsien the monastery Tung-ling-tse, while the second
was deviation from the round trip Sungpan, mapped Captain
Gill 1877.
presenting the accompanying map cannot lay claim any
great accuracy, instruments consisted pocket compass,
watch (picked Cheng-tu), and aneroid, but the absence any
previous traverse (to the best belief) excuse. The map
interest showing portion little-known district, and delimit-
ing approximately the north-western boundary that area intense
cultivation, the Cheng-tu Plain.
Cheng-tu, our base, the capital the province, and situated
the centre the plain which gives its name. first made
known Europeans through the description that famous Venetian
Marco Polo, who describes its wealth, and also speaks great river
good half-mile wide.” The city still great and rich, but the river has
sadly dwindled, being probably the Min, which has been split for
irrigation purposes, whenever debouches the plain
The city surrounded dry and under cultivation), and
wall about feet high, earth faced with brick, enclosing area
about square miles, and its population probably from 500,000
800,000. Its main streets are broad (about feet), well paved with
very free from the unpleasant odours characteristic most
Chinese towns. Many them are roofed with mats, and flanked
shops wherein silks and many articles foreign manufacture, such
cottons, kerosine, Swiss milk, glass-ware, and other commodities
Western origin, are exposed for sale. Silk very largely woven the
city. Litton states that over 3000 looms are employed
the manufacture crepes, satins, brocades, etc., and the product
appears very good and cheap.
Wheel traffic Sechuan non-existent far could learn,
except this city and the surrounding plain, where wheel-barrows
and are found; both these are used the
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TWO TRIPS THE NORTH CHENG-TU, 283
poorer classes aids locomotion, but the gentry invariably travel
Sedan chairs, often accompanied retinue, bearing banners and
gongs, that does not lend dignity Westerner’s eyes, made
impressing the loafers and beggars who congregate the door
every
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Over fifty persons, attached the various missions, compose the
European population, and their hospitality and semi-European homes
form welcome break the monotony everlasting sea yellow
faces and blue gowns. addition, one the missions maintains
very serviceable hospital about twenty beds, which believe much
resorted the Chinese. Finally, home-like touch given the
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284 TWO THE NORTH
steam-whistle the Arsenal, establishment employing over
hands, and containing much fine machinery, some built locally.
However, not employed the best advantage, Hotchkiss guns
and Martini rifles are being turned out side side with matchlocks
and other weird and wonderful lethal weapons.
April set out for Tung-ling-tse, after engaging carriers
through hong,” association that contracts for all carriage,
and is, through its overseers, responsible for the safety property
under their charge. may say that, after warning our personal
“boys” that they would held responsible for any discrepancies
between the stores issued and did not, several months’
travel, lose single article, although most our things were carried
unlocked baskets. each man carries about for light
travelling, and the etiquette China ordains that foreigner must
travel with eight-bearer chair, such used officialdom,
wishes touch with the officials the country, the
cavalcade was imposing one. Further dignity was given the
presence Waiyuan, magistrate, red umbrella and all, whom the
Viceroy ordered accompany us, and proclamation from the
Viceroy, Mining Commissioner and Tartar General, which enjoined the
populace respectful “the strangers from afar,” and which was
posted the official notice-boards ahead us.
After leaving Cheng-tu the north gate, proceeded north-north-
west over plain seamed with irrigation channels, and covered with
pretty farms and numerous villages and towns. Although the roads
are crooked, ill paved, and ofttimes boggy, the streams are invariably
spanned structures from flat stone slab imposing
covered bridges wood and masonry. Single-arch bridges are
frequently met with, built spheroidal boulders held place
their own weight, without mortar any description. Similar structures
carry small which grinding stones feet diameter
are actuated open turbine, driven stream water flowing
down inclined trough and impinging the vanes. For irrigation
—and irrigation streams are subdivided
marvellous manner, and where the water cannot led gravitation,
either the Chinese chain-pump used, or, inches head can
obtained, large undershot water-wheels slowly revolve, and
raise the water the higher levels buckets cut from length
bamboo and affixed the periphery.
Our first day’s march miles road brought the walled
city Pen-hsien, which, were informed its magistrate, boasts
intramural population 60,000, and like number outside the walls.
were fortunate securing large and cleanly hotel, poetically
known the Propitious with handsome garden the back
the official room. may mentioned that there inn
str:
abl
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TWO TRIPS THE NORTH CHENG-TU. 285
almost every village, or, failing temple, where every traveller,
down the humblest coolie, repairs nightly, and for fraction
penny obtains wadded quilt from the hotel office, and the right
straw pallet, bunk, and hot water. Food also obtainable reason-
able rates, and too many them dirt and other plagues are also
had gratis.
Our next day’s route was across the plain the north-west till
noon, where reached the hills Kwang-ko. Kwang-ko found
small straggling village, chiefly remarkable the head
very complete system irrigation canals. The Chian-kiang, river
about the size the Tay, flows over long weir which seems serve
the purpose distributing evenly into four channels, which im-
mediately diverge and serve that portion the plain too high
reached the waters the Min, which are similarly split miles the
west-south-west Kwan-hsien. little above the village crossed
from the right the left bank over handsome five-span suspension
bridge bamboo cables carried masonry piers. Some miles higher
recrossed, this time over bridge plank carried piers
bamboo wickerwork cylinders filled with shingle, and stopped the
village Shau-ye-tung. The river flats over which travelled
were for the most part very densely populated and closely cultivated.
the east high mountains were visible carrying light powdering
snow. Subsequently met with traces snow 7000 feet, but
was not met with any quantity below 8000 feet, which height
least inclined estimate this range.
Arriving Tung-ling-tse monastery (3900 feet), made our
headquarters while looked various mining shows the neigh-
bourhood. were obliged, for want accommodation, camp
tents, our men filled the temple. Tents, though very great
improvement upon the general run hotels, unfortunately cannot
used much the densely populated districts, where the sub-aqueous
cultivation rice leaves room for them; but the hills, where the
only accommodation poor and needed the men, they are very
great comfort and convenience. From this camp centre made
several excursions, short mileage, but long difficulty. The first
was the mountain-side about 2000 feet, and our magistrate afforded
opportunity seeing Chinese official mountaineering. did
coolie’s back—2000 feet mountain path frequently cut
into steps give foothold. Subsequently inveigled him into
ascent 2500 feet his own legs, but the effort nearly killed him,
and had carried down. Afterwards plaintively remarked
“that Chinese gentlemen are never taught walk.” this trip
large number apes about the size collie dogs were seen.
and also tried reach mine the north, but failed owing to,heavy
snow-drifts dangerous From 7000 10,000 saw
No.
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286 TWO TRIPS THE NORTH CHENG-TU.
but little the country, dense clouds shrouded the hills. this
latter height camped for the night, the weather being surprisingly
mild. Next morning made further miles, with much heavy
snow all slopes with northerly aspect, and exciting descent
about feet along notched log thrown diagonally across cliff some
hundreds feet high. Our guide did not seem mind it, but the
rest did. Crossing pass 11,250 feet, started descend
into but the southern side being very steep and covered with
several feet loose snow, our guide gave lost within mile
our objective. Tigers and yaks were reported inhabit the moun-
tains, but only saw the tracks deer and big dog-like track.
just previous our noticing the latter, our military escort had insisted
that should ahead with our revolvers protect them from tigers,
did not think advisable ask their opinion its origin,
wished further. Descending the valley the Chian
kiang from Tung-ling-tse, ascended two tributary streams the
right bank. The largest these, the Pei-shewi-ho, just rift
the mountains, and cultivation possible—a marked contrast the
valley the main stream. our tracks, reached
Cheng-tu the 15th, and made the necessary arrangements for six
weeks’ trip the north, mostly way Gill’s route.
Captain Gill mapped with greater accuracy than was able to, only
the deviation from his route shown.
April left the main Pekin road, Tse-te-chau, some
miles north-north-east Cheng-tu, and then proceeded 28°
until reached the town Shi-fung-hsien. Between this town and
Mien-chau crossed the boulder-strewn bed river, about half
mile wide, which must undoubtedly that crossed Gill miles
the east-south-east. Shortly after crossing this stream the hills border-
ing the plain were noticed about miles off, with gap from which
one branch the stream evidently flows. for the other streams
which cross the route between Cheng-tu and Chi-shwei-ho, although
good idea can formed where they leave the impossible
give their eastward direction, they are completely split and
trained serve the needs man, that often uncertain whether
natural stream canal that crosses the road. Mien-chau
large city enclosed strong wall and moat. What the population
was did not hear; but Pen-hsien contains 60,000, should say
this city should contain about 100,000. Its industries are paper-making
distributing centre.
After leaving Mien-chau, the edge the plain lies about miles
west the road until miles past where the road crosses
low pass the foothills and runs down small river An-hsien.
The whole plain from these foothills was scene inde-
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TWO TRIPS THE NORTH CHENG-TU, 287
scribable beauty, the fields being one mass brilliant colour with huge
poppies every possible tint, broken only the green groves
bamboo, poplar, and willow surrounding the white-walled, black-roofed
farm steadings. The amount opium produced must enormous.
the courtesy the officials An-hsien, were put the
Cantonese Guildhall, club-house, just outside the city. This was
beautiful little place, with gardens, groves, and rockeries, and couple
very clean and pleasant An-hsien station
the Church Missionary Society, five missionaries being there; while
two ladies are stationed Shih-chuen, further the north-west.
the north the town there very fine wing dam about half mile
long and feet high, solid concrete, built keep the river
from flooding the town. After day’s delay proceeded run the
river reach Shih-chuen. Two miles from An-hsien crossed
long three-span bridge wrought-iron chains, with planks laid
across them for decking, forming light and elegant structure.
From Li-ko-ping followed the main stream for miles, and, then
returning, crossed over pass (2930 feet) and descended Chusan
feet), the right bank the Shih-chuen river, and camped.
From Chusan Shih-chuen-hsien good day’s march, the road
being very hilly and rough. Just before entering the town the river
crossed bamboo suspension bridge 240 feet span, built
plaited bamboo cables, each big man’s thigh. these
support wicker floor, and two either side form side chains. Though
the bridge sways considerably, ponies are always being ridden across
must have ample strength. The cables are strained big
capstans either bank, and the whole bridge is, informed,
renewed intervals about three years—no small tax town
10,000 inhabitants the outside. Excursions the two branches
the river gave their courses for few miles, but when left them
they were still very considerable volume. They are crossed when
required the “single-rope” bridge, which common Tibet.
river tumultuous and full rapids, rendering quite unfit for
navigation until Tung-ko reached.
After returning Chusan made east, rising 4930 feet
miles, before descending gradually Tung-ko (2110 feet), large
village the right bank the Shih-chuen river, which reappears
from the north. From here the road runs generally east-north-east
through low hills, partially cultivated, till reaches large river,
which have been unable identify with any Captain Gill’s route.
Boats are seen it. Five miles further brought Chiang-
yu-hsien, where rejoined Gill’s route.
One the most conspicuous traits the Chinese the plain
their aversion cold drinks. Every mile two, and main roads
every few hundred yards, tea-houses are found where the thirsty
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288 TANGANYIKA PROBLEM.’
wayfarer, payment about quarter farthing, can obtain
basin with few tea-leaves and much boiling water cares
drink. Sometimes the tea absent, but drink the
boiling water. This custom universal: not think ever saw
one them drink cold water, and they have even tried dissuade
from drinking mountain torrent far above all habitation. Cer-
tainly upon the plain, where the land heavily manured, and all the
water has been used for irrigation somewhere other, would
simply suicidal touch unboiled water, and doubt the natives have
learned the lesson from experience. example, have even seen
the village water-supply taken out one end rice-field while the
village sewage was being emptied into the other.
conclusion, can only say that the district described one
the greatest interest the traveller, not only for the fine scenery
the surrounding hills and the beauty the plain, but—and chiefly,
mind—as example what can done with systematic and
complete system irrigation, and the most intense cultivation pro-
bably the world, carry teeming population scrupulously careful
return the soil everything that can given it, and the reward
six crops year according Chinese information. The prevalent
saw were: March 17, rape flower and pod; April 25, poppy;
May 31, tobacco; June 20, rice being planted out. can quite believe
the statement that another crop rice and sixth crop raised.
These appeared the main crops, but wheat, barley, buckwheat,
saffron, beans, cabbage, egg-plant, and others lesser importance were
also seen. Unfortunately, did not see the same fields
carrying these crops succession, proof lacking, but each trip was
through one main crop. Most the main crops are raised seed-beds,
and immediately the residue the last crop ploughed in, the seed-
lings are planted out. For example, the rice about foot high when
planted out stalk stalk into the The labour, course,
enormous, but the result that 4,000,000 people live plain
perhaps 3000 square miles.
‘THE TANGANYIKA PROBLEM.’*
contents this volume are zoological and geological, but the
principal questions under consideration are geographical importance,
These questions are: the physical geography Central Africa past
times, and the distribution, past and present, the animals inhabiting
Tanganyika Account the Researches undertaken concerning
Blackett, Ltd.
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‘THE TANGANYIKA PROBLEM.’ 289
the lakes and rivers that region. The problem solved was the
Lake Tanganyika certain shells and jelly-fish
belonging types supposed exclusively marine.
For the solution this problem and for inquiries into the geography,
geology, and zoology the lake region Central Africa, two expedi-
tions succession under Mr. Moore’s charge were dispatched Lake
Tanganyika and some other Central African lakes. Both these
expeditions have been fully described the Geographical Journal, and
will suffice the present case notice briefly the scientific results
presented the present
Mr. Moore’s task has been successfully achieved. Whether his
conclusions accepted not, there can doubt the thoroughness
his work. The fact that has, states, added two hundred new
species the fauna Central African lakes, shows how extensively
must have collected, and has himself investigated the anatomy the
mollusca and some other invertebrates. are but few travellers,
even the present day, who have the anatomical and zoological know-
ledge which have been employed the investigation the Tanganyika
fauna. Mr. Moore has also, with the assistance Mr. Fergusson, been
able add considerably our knowledge the geology the African
lake region.
The results the exploration may divided into two
series those which are mainly geological, and those which relate the
distribution animal life. The two are closely connected, but they
are the subjects different chapters the present work, they may
noticed separately.
The principal great systems rocks the lake region Central
Africa are stated Mr. Moore be, descending order—
African lake pleistocenes.
beds: sandstones and shells approximately Triassic
age.
Old African sandstones: sandstones and shales, unfossiliferous,
great thickness and unknown age.
Crystalline formations: schist, gneiss, granite, etc.
This succession, the subrecent lake-beds neglected, the main
similar that found South Africa and the peninsula India, the
Drummond’s beds being apparently the equivalents the Karoos and
whilst the old African sandstones may possibly represent
the Table mountain sandstones South Africa and the Vindhyans
India. The older series has hitherto proved unfossiliferous, and its
origin obscure, commonly supposed marine origin, but
the absence fossils proof wanting that the ancient sandstones and
shales were formed seas like those the present day.
The occurrence the Drummond’s beds ganoid fishes and
bivalve mollusca related those found Lake Tanganyika, together
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290 TANGANYIKA
with the reported discovery echinoderm near Lake Nyasa,
regarded Mr. Moore (p. 72) evidence that the strata are marine
origin. The bivalve shells Tanganyika are, however, exclusively
fresh-water types, are the ganoid fishes also (there reason why some
Triassic ganoids may not have lived fresh water), and the echinoderm
noticed Dr. Gregory was doubtful origin and Oliocene age,
that clearly could not have come from the beds. The view
that these rocks are marine origin cannot regarded, the evidence
their South African representatives, they are fresh-water origin and
very largely fluviatile.
The point would have been hardly worth mentioning but for the
circumstance that Mr. Moore has prominently attacked what terms
(p. x.) Murchison’s erroneous hypothesis concerning African stability.”
If, however, the strata here termed beds are inland
origin, Murchison’s views are not very far wrong, and the theory that
Central Africa part ancient land area greatly strengthened.
true that Mr. Moore’s criticism chiefly put forward opposition
the idea that mountain ridges have been formed Africa since
Mesozoic times; but that may have taken place parts the
area was fully admitted Murchison (Jour. Roy. Geogr. Soc., vol.
xxii., 1852, 123).
The principal geological question which attention was directed
connection with the Tanganyika problem was the origin the lake
thus explained. period subsequent the formation
the Drummond’s beds, but not clearly determinable, great change
the physical geography Africa commenced, and has con-
tinued the present day, resulting the elevation meridional
axis extending from the Nile the Zambezi. For this axis, which
culminates Ruwenzori, Mr. Moore proposes the name the Great
Central Range.” this tract elevated ground, the
Suess and Rift-valleys” Gregory and other writers, for which
proposed the new name Eurycolpic folds,” have been formed
result the general folding from lateral pressure. shown that
these valleys are not simply meridional, but that they branch and
intersect each other places, and Mr. Moore inclined compare
them the equatorial canal-system Mars rather than the rifts
the Moon’s surface.
doubtful whether the new term, “eurycolpic fold,”
improvement rift-valley (trough valley would have been better),
for these remarkable features are not, strictly speaking, folds, but
longitudinal blocks let down trough faults, and they are not always
(broad bosomed), some being comparatively great
breadth. Unfortunately, the difficulty accounting for these valleys
not removed renaming
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‘THE TANGANYIKA PROBLEM.’ 291
the bottom these curious troughs volcanic cones are
what frequent occurrence, and testify the immense pressure accom-
panying the dislocations that taken place. One the volcanic
areas, that the Mfumbiro mountains, north Lake Kivu, received
especial attention, for forms the water-parting between the Congo
and Nile drainage areas. shown that, previously the eruptions
which the Mfumbiro cones are due, the water Lake Kivu, south
them, drained northward the Albert Edward Nyanza and Albert
Nyanza, which occupy the northern extension the Tanganyikan
trough, and that the present drainage Kivu the southward into
Tanganyika the Russisi due the dam formed the
volcanic
several places Mr. Moore calls attention evidence showing how
recent some the dislocations must which the valley troughs are
due. clear that the cliffs bordering the valleys were not very
recent geological date, they would have been destroyed the action
denudation.
now the biological questions involved the Tanganyika
problem, enter upon debatable ground. preliminary question
whether the marine types were confined Lake Tanganyika
whether representatives were found other inland waters has
been decided. the fauna found the numerous
lakes Africa, from Rudolf and Albert Nyanza Bangweolo,
Nyasa, and Shirwa, has shown that the marine forms
types,” they are termed Mr. Moore, are confined
absence these shells from Kivu, Albert
and Albert, the north opposed theory once
suggested—that the marine forms found their way into
from the Red sea.
explanation the problem offered Mr. Moore
the following: The fauna the lake twofold, ordinary fresh-
water fauna consisting genera fish, mollusca, common other
African lakes, and most cases wide distribution, and the
group. The latter are regarded the original inhabitants,
and the ordinary fresh-water forms are more recent introduction.
The “halolimnic” mollusca belong fourteen genera, all univalves,
and these less than eight closely resemble forms found fossil
the Jurassic rocks Western that there good reason regard
them descendants the same similar species. must remem-
bered that evidence this kind accumulative, the resemblance one
two shells might due accidental similarity, but very ques-
tionable whether the numerous instances here described and illustrated
excellent figures the modern and ancient forms side side can
attributed fortuitous resemblance. The fauna there-
fore regarded derived from marine organisms Jurassic age, and
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292 TANGANYIKA PROBLEM.’
the structure the animals shown generalized primitive
type, reasonable conclusion that these genera have retained the
external and internal structure forms belonging Middle Mesozoic
times. retaining structure less specialized than that their
nearest marine relations, the halolimnic types Tanganyika agree with
most forms fresh-water life, but they are distinguished their rela-
tion fossil fauna definite geological age.
How these descendants old Jurassic molluscs found their way into
Tanganyika not quite clear, but inferred that they may have
inhabited the area the lake since this tract formed part Jurassic
sea, which supposed have extended over the Congo basin.
far this the views expressed the present work may
accepted justified the evidence, though some the data which
the former existence marine area the Congo basin inferred are
not convincing. For instance, some weight attached the presence
the present Congo estuary genus allied one
the Tanganyikan genera. But this same genus abounds the shores
the Indian ocean, and might consequently regarded showing
that the Tanganyikan halolimuic fauna Eastern origin.
The weakest point the connection between the Tanganyikan
halolimnic fauna and the Jurassic marine fauna that confined
univalve shells belonging single section. Mr. Moore’s opinion,
besides the halolimnic mollusca, the prawns, crabs, sponges, jelly-fishes,
and several the fishes, the ganoid Polypterus, the dipnoan Protopterus,
some the and most the (p. 340), should
included the halolimnic group. far some the invertebrata
are concerned, may right, but none them have the same specially
Jurassic affinities the mollusca, whilst not only are all the fishes
widely spread types, but the Cichlide especial are perch-like forms,
nothing resembling which known from Jurassic rocks, any beds
older than Upper Cretaceous, urged (p. 340) that Tanganyika
the original centre from which the Cichlide were firstly,
because the number species occurring the lake; secondly,
because their primitive character. The second argument may
some importance; the first not, single instance will show. The
majority living antelopes are African, but the original source the
antelopes was all probability Europe and Asia.
There are some other opinions expressed ‘The Tanganyika
Problem’ which desirable call attention, because they are
different from those held biologists They are found
chapter ii. Mr. Moore discusses the distribution and origin
fresh-water faunas, and concludes (p. 29) that they are chiefly composed
the remains oace widely distributed and ancient sea-fauna,
the ancestors the surviving components which were forced out
the ocean into the fresh waters the globe owing change the
PROBLEM.’ 293
character the sea itself. This change appears have become
ciently strongly marked have produced appreciable differentiation
period roughly corresponding the commencement the secondary
rocks. this matter would appear that assemblages similar
organisms have necessity taken fresh water all over the world
about the same time.”
startling hypothesis return the doctrine the sporadic
origin” species and genera current pre-Darwinian times. The
whole subject the origin fresh-water faunas was discussed Darwin
chapter xii. the Origin Species,’ and his conclusions are opposed
those expressed The Tanganyika Problem.’
There one objection the hypothesis the ordinary fresh-water
fauna having been derived from the marine life any single geological
epoch, which may mentioned, because has particular reference
the Tanganyikan fauna. Mr. Moore has shown that near allies
several halolimnic shells are found Jurassic strata, and
has inferred that the Jurassic forms were the ancestors the recent
genera, But where the ancient marine fauna from which Unio and
Corbicula, Vivipara and Melania, Lymnea and Planorbis, are probably
derived? The first step towards establishing common origin for these
genera show that fauna once existed from which all might have
The earliest strata which assemblage fresh-water mollusca
found all nearly approaching that the present day the
Purbeck Wealden, Upper Jurassic and Lower Cretaceous. Had
these forms established themselves fresh waters about the com-
mencement the formation the secondary rocks,” why are
them found the Trias, which there lack strata fresh-water
origin? may added that, although many fish are known from
Triassic rocks, nothing resembling the commonest forms fresh-water
fish-life, such carps, siluroids, and percoids, occurs amongst them.
The expressed (p. 30) that fresh-water mollusca have but
little tendency migrate, and that fresh-water fishes and the more
active invertebrata have greater migratory powers than mollusca. This
opposed the views generally held. well known how quickly
artificial pond, with which stream connected, becomes stocked
with fresh-water shells, and Darwin and others have shown how the
young are transported birds, whilst well-known fact that the
pond-mussels (Unio) attach themselves fishes. The specific
differences between the different African lakes, strongly and repeatedly
insisted upon Mr. Moore evidence separate origin the
mollusca inhabiting those sheets water, will not weigh much with
those who know what trivial differences species” fresh-water
are founded.
There one more argument Moore’s which must challenged.
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294 THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN THE WORLD.
says (pp. 19, 20), distribution Characinid fishes the
American and African fresh waters quite inexplicable any sup-
position their having originated relic fauna some one arm
the sea, for there evidence that there has been any connection
between the remote state (sic) land masses which these bodies now
inhabit. the same with the Cichlide and many other forms
fish.” The view advocated that these African and American fresh-
water fishes must have originated, both sides the Atlantic, from
marine forms simultaneously, but say
that such origin could account for the distribution
family land lizards, with similar distribution that the
and Mr. Moore cannot acquainted with all
that has been written, both biologists and geologists, the
former land connection between Africa and South America, connection
which have existed during Jurassic and Cretaceous times, and
which probably continued the early geological data are
treated Suess the Antlitz der Erde the biological, palwontological,
and recent facts are found scattered through number works,
the earliest being the late Prof. The principal data
known 1890 are contained the presidential address the Geological
Society for that year, but additional evidence has since been brought
forward Gregory, Beddard, and others, one the most recent con-
tributions the subject being that Dr. Max Schoeller, noticed this
Journal for January, the facts are widely known, that
remarkable tind them, together with those contained Darwin’s
Origin Species,’ completely ignored writer who propounding
novel views the distribution animals.
If, however, favourable opinion can expressed some
the biological theories announced Tanganyika Problem,’ the
descriptions and figures the animals found are great merit. The
account the fishes Mr. Boulenger, and the accompanying figures,
both coloured and uncoloured, are admirably executed. The descriptions
the mollusca and the other invertebrata are Mr. Moore, and
form valuable addition knowledge, and the accompanying cuts are
landscapes the earlier part the book are less successful,
and regretted that misprints are rather numerous throughout.
THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN THE WORLD.
DOUGLAS FRESHFIELD.
Some years ago (in 1886) argued,* with pertinacity which
afraid may have seemed presumptuous some readers, against
Proceedings the Royal Geographical Society, vol. viii. New Series; and Alpine
Journal, xii.
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THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN THE WORLD. 295
the conviction the late General Walker, formerly the head the
Indian Survey, that Hermann Schlagintweit, together with Mr. Brian
Hodgson, witness great weight, and other more recent Residents
Nepal, were mistaken believing that the snowy peaks visible
the east from the neighbourhood Katmandu, and called
the inhabitants, all probability include the
triangulated peak, 29,002 feet, commonly known England Mount
Everest.’
29,002 feet ?
hy
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PEAKS SEEN TO THE EAST FROM HILLS NORTH OF KATMANDU.
(After Herr photograph.)
Major (now Colonel) Waddell, authority these matters, ex-
presses what presume has been the popular verdict the discussion
the following terms
the Continent one the vague Indian mythological names,
obtained Schlagintweit from the Nepalese Khatmandu,
for mountain which supposed identical with the Everest
the Survey, usually assigned it—namely, Gauri-sankar,’ one
the titles the conjugal Indian god Shiva, the Destroyer, and his wife.
But not generally known that the identity these two mountains
has been conclusively disproved General Walker, the late Surveyor-
General India, and Colonel Tanner, his deputy. Owing the
curvature the Earth, and the interposition other ranges,
physically impossible see Everest either from Khatmandu, the
Kaulia Kakani peaks, whence Schlagintweit believed saw it,
the Waddell. 1899. have not altered the
spelling the local names adopted the author.
ig
4
296 THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN THE WORLD.
and got his local name, ‘Gauri-sankar.’ for Kanchenjunga, which
Schlagintweit says was also visible from that position, shown
‘fully 100 miles beyond the most remote point visible from that
And Colonel Tanner has directly proved that the Gaurisan-
kar Schlagintweit certainly not the Everest the Survey, but
much smaller and totally different mountain. writes, have
now before the panoramic and angular measurements
Major Wilson, for some time Resident Nepal, who observed from
Sheopuri, point the Kaulia ridge. Schlagintweit’s Gaurisankar,
the Everest” successive political Residents Nepal, was pointed
out Major Wilson, and from his angular measurements able
identify that peak No. XX., 23,447 feet, more than mile lower than
Everest, and point distance very far short it.’”
far Colonel Waddell. assertions are convincing first
but they not bear examination. When refer the official
map, which furnishes reproduction, notice that there
nothing that document show that impossible, either from the
curvature the Earth the interposition other ranges, separately
combined, for the peak 29,002 feet seen distance 105
110 miles from height 10,000 feet, some miles north
Katmandu. From Katmandu itself the great peak would apparently
covered the peak XVIII., 21,957 feet. But what can seen from
the city itself never formed any part argument.
1886 concluded share the discussion stating that
must left for some competent observer Katmandu decide
whether the 29,002-feet peak visible from the hills the vicinity.
the end last year two fresh pieces evidence turned up.
Lieut.-Colonel Pears, the Resident Katmandu, confirmed the
report his predecessors that the snows seen the east from near
Katmandu are locally called Gaurisankar,” and Mrs. Pears exhibited
the Alpine Club sketch this range. The objection will,
course, taken that this new evidence itself only confirmation
the statement earlier travellers that the eastern snows seen from
this quarter are called Gaurisankar, and proof that the 29,002-feet
summit one the peaks visible. But have also, German
work just published, photograph the view the eastern snows
from the hill (Kaulia and Kakani are points the same ridge) visited
Schlagintweit, with what obviously enlargement part
it, showing the principal group.
Now, these photographs, just over the northern flank peak
can hardly wrong recognizing appears snowy
mountain, the outline which corresponds very closely, taking into
account the relative positions from which the photographs were
Indien verschlossenen Land Nepal.’ Dr. Boeck. 1893.
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Makalu. 29 002 feet
Telephotograph.
THE NEPAL PEAKS FROM
29,002 feet. Makalu.
THE NEPAL PEAKS FROM SANDAKPHU.
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THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN THE WORLD. 297
obtained, with the outline the 29,002-feet peak Signor Sella’s
photograph, seen from the Chunjerma pass eastern Nepal. And
this mountain is, with regard peak the exact position
where Everest” should be. may be, the surveyors
insisted, hidden from the city peak XVIII., but the situation
Kakani, few miles further north, suffices open it.
This summit was, understand from Dr. Boeck, pointed out
him Gaurisankar, and apparently, quite unconscious both the
previous visit his fellow-countryman the spot, and that deal-
ing with controversial matter, congratulates himself his accomplish-
ment pilgrimage Gaurisankar-Everest, the highest mountain
the Earth.”
seems, therefore, that Dr. Boeck has furnished some further
ground for believing that Mr. Hodgson was right after all, and that the
summit known this country Mount Everest” does form part
the group visible and known the natives central
Nepal. should add that summit apparently corresponding position
with the peak XX. the Survey also recognizable Dr. Boeck’s
photograph.
trust have made clear that the point have been arguing
throughout is, whether the 29,002-feet peak among the snows visible
from Kakani, and known Gaurisankar, and not, whether Schlagint-
weit, Major Wilson, other observers, have identified rightly the
particular summit. Most visitors Sikhim, including Schlagintweit
and, one time, General Walker himself, mistook Makalu for the
highest peak. This does not affect the fact that Mount Everest”
visible from Sandakphu. Nor could the failure Europeans Kat-
mandu recognize which was the culminating point the group the
Nepalese call Gaurisankar prove that the 29,002-feet peak out
sight, not called Gaurisankar. instance nearer home may
help make the case more clear. the Italian lakes the Saasgrat
has been frequently mistaken for Monte Rosa. one would argue
this account that Monte Rosa invisible, has not the best right
its name. The reason for which the surveyors argued strenuously
forty-five years ago that the 29,002-feet peak cannot the Gaurisankar
Nepal was, course, that their chief’s proceeding giving the
mountain English name was excused, justified, the time the
assertion that had local native name. have now got two
native names, the Indian name Gaurisankar and the Tibetan name
Chomokankar, long ago brought forward Chandra Das, and, though
never, far know, seriously disputed, generally ignored, until
Colonel Waddell brought into prominence, Personally should like
see Gaurisankar win the day.
The illustration the text taken from Dr. Boeck’s photograph.
The two photographic plates show the aspect Mapalu and the
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THE CIRCULATION THE ATMOSPHERE THE
29,002-feet peak from the south-east and somewhat south east,
distances and miles respectively.
Dr. Boeck declares quite positively that from Kakani recognized
Kangchenjunga, Kabru, and Jannu, and, previous year had
made the trip from Darjiling Pamionchi and Akluthang, ought
have had difficulty recognizing such characteristic forms. Dog-
matic assertions about the visibility Kangchenjunga from certain
points central Nepal can, however, carry weight until confirmed
substantial evidence. All depends the exact height the stand-
point and the intervening ranges. far the curvature the Earth
concerned there whatever. have recognized with the
naked eye, and examined with glasses, from summit (Punta San
Matteo) the Orteler group Monte Viso, 210 miles distant, and some
the triangulations the Indian Survey depend rays even greater
length. Kangchenjunga less than 200 miles from and
16,000 feet higher than Monte Viso. far can judge from
maps, the southern outliers the (raurisankar group, over 20,000 feet
height, would effectually mask the Sikhim mountains from the west.
trust that Colonel Pears, his return India, may able, with the
help the Surveyor-General, obtain telephotographic views the
visible ranges, with the bearings the principal peaks seen from
central Nepal, and thus settle definitely the matters still controversy.*
THE CIRCULATION THE ATMOSPHERE THE
TROPICAL AND EQUATORIAL REGIONS.
Mr. communicates the Monthly Weather Review for April
last, the replies Prof. Hildebrandsson inquiries addressed him the
state knowledge the circulation the atmosphere within the tropics, and the
possibility extending that knowledge means with kites
balloons. Prof. Hildebrandsson’s statement follows
ANTITRADE AND ITS INVESTIGATIONS.
Theories Atmospheric has been believed from the time
Halley, and more fully developed theories have been put forward Dove, Maury,
and Ferrel, that the ascending currents above the thermal equator proceed imme-
diately south-west and north-west antitrades over the north-east and south-east
trade winds. part the antitrade, perhaps, sinks down over the high barometric
pressures the North and South Atlantic oceans and returns with the trade winds,
but the greater part the antitrade first descends the surface the ocean north
The report the surveyor (published separately with map 1887)
throws light the point under discussion, although crossed the
La. only miles the north-west the 29,002-feet peak.
TROPICAL AND EQUATORIAL REGIONS. 299
and south the trade winds, and continues the poles the prevailing south-
west north-west winds the north south temperate zones. The facts upon
which this theory based are very meagre. only the peak Teneriffe
(12,180 feet) that the antitrade can observed the whole year. Its mean lower
limit the height 9000 feet, and this height greater summer than
winter. October sinks 6000 feet. Leopold von Buch (as cited Dove,
‘Das Gesetz der 27) wrote 1825, follows: Should not believe
that the west wind sought for the summer voyages from England
the latitude the Azores and ordinarily found there is, well the
west wind the summit the peak, the upper equatorial current that has
here come down the level the sea? would then follow that the equatorial
current the upper regions, least over the Atlantic ocean, does not reach the
>
ISOBARS WINDS JULY
far know, this the only empirical fact upon which the theory
founded; but, the other hand, should said that not proved that the
surface wind the Azores the prolongation the antitrade. When the centre
the barometric maximum shifts the south, the south-west wind also moves
lower latitudes, and the antitrade sinks near the centre the same time,
probably must lower level the peak when the centre approaching.
But, already stated, not certain that the antitrade reaches the surface the
ocean north this centre high pressure.
knowledge very limited. know that the anti-
trade exists over the trades, least the North Atlantic and the Sandwich
islands, but one has found this current Central America Ecuador,
while the smoke the highest around Quito constantly indicate
strong wind from the east. the accompanying map the isobars and surface
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760
760 ia | |
300 THE CIRCULATION THE ATMOSPHERE.
winds for July are copied from Hann’s Atlas der Meteorologie,’ while the long
arrows indicate the directions movement the cirrus clouds July. see
that there broad upper stream flowing from the east both above and each
side the thermal equator. Manila the direction east-north-east, India
south-east, Congo east-south-east, Guiana and Costa Rica due east, Jamaica and
Havana east-south-east, though winter west-south-west Havana.
about latitude 20° the direction west-south-west Key West and
west Mauritius, while over the whole temperate zone the Northern Hemisphere,
from the United States the west Assam and Shanghai the east, westerly
winds prevail. Melbourne the direction also west 16°
The observations discussed the forthcoming Rapport sur les Observations
Internationales des Nuages Comité Météorologique International,’ which will
probably issued this year, indicate that there exist the upper regions—
(1) strong easterly wind above the equatorial belt.
(2) Strong westerly winds over the two temperate zones, forming two immense
polar cyclones, which our ordinary cyclones are formed satellites.
(3) about 20° north and south latitudes the easterly wind rapidly shifts
the south-west and west. Above the peak Teneriffe the antitrade blows from
almost due west there are observations summer.
The late Mr. Abercromby observed with great care the upper currents the
doldrums both the Atlantic and Indian oceans, and came the conclusion that
high levels the two trade winds rather tend coalesce into single wind from
the east, and that the poleward motion air near the equator very small. These
results were got watching very carefully the vertical succession upper
currents. the Northern Hemisphere, one stands with his face the wind,
the upper winds will found coming more and more from the left hand the
higher they are. the Southern Hemisphere the rule reversed, for then the
upper currents flow more and more toward the left. Now, his investigations,
Abercromby found that with the surface wind blowing from south-east south-
west there was more easterly wind higher levels, or, other words, that the
vertical succession winds proper the Southern Hemisphere prevailed also for
some distance north the equator. the southern Indian ocean from 10°
12° during its season north-west monsoon, found the upper clouds coming
from north-north-east east, or,in other words, the rule succession for the
Northern Hemisphere extends little over the equator into the Southern Hemi-
sphere. Hence proved that the trades and monsoons not meet, rise, and
flow back poleward, but that the two winds coalesce form one general easterly
wind one general current toward the west over the doldrums, which was observed
directly after the eruption Krakatoa August, The dust went around
the world the equator few days, but did not reach middle latitudes until
two three months later. Our knowledge the vertical variation temperature
and humidity almost nothing, and not know whether there sudden
change these elements between the trade and the
Method Exploration proposed.—The first experiment could best performed
July and August, for that season the thermal equator its most northerly
latitude, and, course, the doldrums and the prolonged south-east trade winds are
broadest and best developed, since they extend over 10° latitude, namely, from
10° north. Besides, have then fixed point the Azores, exactly the
centre the barometric maximum the North party landed
there during the expedition could much interesting work studying the
central region tropical anticyclone. The expedition should leave Boston,
Mass., the end June, and follow the track indicated crosses and broken
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THE GEOGRAPHICAL ASSOCIATION ANNUAL MEETING. 301
arrows the map. skirting the isobar 762 millimetres you should
observe carefully the direction the different clouds, and trust you will find,
usual, that the upper winds come more and more from the left hand the
higher they are, and will not find any trace descending equatorial current.”
means vertical soundings with kites you will probably obtain the same
result Blue Hill under the same weather type, although confess that this
part the experiment would probably more conclusive winter, when the
gradient between the Azores and Iceland steeper. From the English Channel
directly the Azores, cutting right angles the isobars where they are widest
apart, and, possible, land party San Miguel observe the clouds and make
kite soundings the very centre the barometric maximum. Then way
Madeira namely, over that part the ocean where the antitrade
always found height about 9000 feet, and try find its inclination,
any, with the underlying sea surface, the vertical variations temperature and
humidity the two currents, etc. Then proceeding south past the Cape Verde
islands the doldrums, avoid the irregular conditions the Gulf Guinea, and
west between 10° and the South American coast about right angles
the south-east and south-west monsoons. You will then have totally un-
known field explore, but think that you will find the surface winds becoming
more and more easterly with increase height, without any sort antitrade,
Teneriffe. this course with the thermal equator the vertical soundings will
surely prove great interest. But will the greatest interest if, steam-
ing against the south-east trade the latitude Ascension, you can find any
evidence the antitrade. curious that Mauritius the upper winds are
from west-north-west, against the south-east trade; summer when there are
doldrums the Indian ocean, the south-east trades Mauritius and the south-
west monsoon India form uninterrupted surface wind. Does there then exist
different wind above the south-east trade the South Atlantic? the kites
not reach far enough, and if, fear, there are cirrus observe, try
send from Ascension island balloon without instruments—a true
—to the greatest possible height and watch its drift. Jnly
trade strongest, steady, and normal. From Ascension reture
easterly track through the calms south-west Guinea aad then
over more westerly track the Azores, and thence the
map. find the upper trade wind this westerly part the northern
barometric maximum. few weeks, you will able solve some
the most important problems meteorology.
THE GEOGRAPHICAL ASSOCIATION ANNUAL MEETING.
Tue Annual Meeting the Geographical Association was held Friday, January
The President, Mr. Douglas Freshfield, occupied the Chair.
his presidential address Mr. Freshfield said that, since the Meeting had
prospect more interesting matter, would confine himself making few
remarks connected with suggested the Report. His first impulse facing
such assemblage experts was apologize for the position occupied
their Chairman. Fortunately for the Association, however, its success depended
not much the merits its President the energy its other officers and
members. regretted the unfortunate accident—a frost-bite Monte Rosa—
which had deprived the Meeting the presence their Treasurer, Mr. Masterman,
who had, however, continued take active part their affairs.
No.
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THE GEOGRAPHICAL ASSOCIATION
ANNUAL MEETING,
The questions proposed with were these: What progress the
Association what directions should concentrate its efforts the
present juncture
The Geographical Association began its corporate existence body militant,
body struggling against national and professional apathy, which they recognized
the dangers. those dangers the nation had since had some forcibleexamples.
would premature say that had been awakened, but its slumbers had been
least sensibly disturbed. the matters they had heart there was visible
progress many directions. The School Geography Oxford, founded
through the exertions the Royal Geographical Society, was flourishing. Mr.
Bryce, most competent witness, had recently told him that had found the
teachers full enthusiasm and the learners growing number. What con-
trast,” wrote, “to our day!” The Vacation Course, held under the direction
Messrs. Mackinder, Beazley, Dickson, and Herbertson, seemed have been most
successful, and have been much appreciated the teachers who were able
attend. The University London had quite lately recognized the aims the
Association adding his name the Geographical Board Studies, and, the
other end the educational ladder, the School Board London set geographical
paper which ten thousand children sent replies, and for which two hundred
and fifty pupils were commended. was still among the head-masters the great
upper and middle-class public schools that they met with most apathy.
another quarter, indirectly educational, they had made advances establishing
more intimate relations with the heads the Ordnance Survey, which, under its
present Director, Colonel Johnston, had carried out many the suggestions made
ten years ago behalf the Royal Geographical Society himself. More had
still done, particularly popularizing the maps better system dis-
tribution and and they might hope that, under new Postmaster-General,
the Post Office would longer stand the way, had the past, stultifying
its offer sell the Ordnance maps insisting superfluous and vexatious
formalities.
The greatest made the Association the past twelve had,
been the issue their new magazine, The Geographical
the members which, from the nature things, could
communication and union. Each number had proved real success every
respect. trusted the magazine would prove increasing success, ventured
express purely personal hope that writers would eschew far might
possible all needless technicalities. There was sort scientific language that
sounded very like jargon unscientific ears. would not, for instance, for worlds
speak disrespectfully the equator, but might confess wish now and then
put down consequential brook.” must remember that the business
the Association was rub into the British public the practical importance geo-
graphical intelligence, whether war politics, commerce colonization.
war, they had the utterance that distinguished officer and surveyor,
Sir Thomas Holdich, who, President the Geographical Section the Belfast
meeting the British Association, made the following remarkable
experience convinced him that the apathy shown many our fore-
most generals and leaders the subject maps arose chiefly from well-founded
doubt their own ability use them.” sentence quoted from the
the date. wished they could feel sure that the lessons the late war had
been taken heart those who were responsible for Army examinations.
politics, what did they think gentlemen who called Heligoland “the Pearl
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THE GEOGRAPHICAL ASSOCIATION ANNUAL MEETING. 303
the Baltic,” Batum the key the Persian Gulf,” setting instruct
the public the newspapers? His last words should take the form few
practical suggestions. would remember that they were the words
amateur, one who was outsider among experts; and they would take them
only for what they might seem worth.
believed teachers should, for the present any rate, aim keeping the
practical side geography view, should insist its importance regard
human life and national prosperity; that they should urge its claim, not much
separate special subject, but aspect almost every subject already
taught, and link between them. would not exaggerate the place
Heimatkunde, that the imaginations young people are most
easily stimulated what directly concerns humanity, would not, with beginners
any rate, incline too heavily exclusively the side geography which
touches geology, the study surface features—geomorphology was, under-
stood, the new phrase. And the present moment would make one
our first objects give British citizens clear understanding the territories
oversea that constitute the British Empire. dense ignorance that
regards emigration plunge into the unknown, only less formidable than death,
was one the greatest hindrances the better distribution our race throughout
the Empire. Such distribution the only alternative either overcrowding
and misery home such limitation the increase population
one the normal signs decadence country. The task ought not prove
too difficult. Photography and the lantern could come marvellous manner
the assistance the teacher. Slides, such those prepared Mr. Andrews
and others, might more extensively used. one knew how such means
the clergy had drilled into children’s minds the features Palestine and life
the East. might take lesson from these pious enthusiasts, and the
same for Canada, Australia, and the Cape. must now make place for one who
could speak with authority regards Australia, Sir Cockburn, formerly Prime
Minister South Australia, who had been kind enough respond their
invitation, and would address the meeting.
The Hon. Sir John Cockburn, K.C.M.G., M.D., then delivered address
Australia.
Mr. Andrews then exhibited number maps, views, and diagrams
illustrative the Ordnance Survey said that the use maps showing
land elevation must integral part any intelligent geographical teaching.
For satisfactory delineation relief and steepness slope, maps such the
series part the Chilterns prepared for the war game,” and showing contour
lines feet, were necessary. The admirable hill-shaded maps combined with
contour-lines issued the Ordnance Survey should enable teachers deal with
the relief their own neighbourhood. slides maps and pictures the coast
Cornwall the Land’s End peninsula, then showed the way treat typical
area.
Sir Joshua Fitch proposed, and Prof. Westlake Cambridge seconded, vote
thanks Sir John Cockburn and Mr. Andrews.
The Annual Report was then approved, and oflice-bearers elected for 1903.
series typical sheets the Ordnance Survey maps was exhibited the
meeting, and afterwards the map room Savile Row, where number
teachers and others inspected it.
»
REVIEWS.
EUROPE.
Across Bisiker. With Illustrations and Maps, and Appendix
Hill the Plants collected. London: Edward Arnold. 1902.
number narratives travel Iceland Englishmen and Americans
have appeared recent years, but, unfortunately, few contain anything geogra-
phical scientific importance, and still fewer any new book,
therefore, describing really new geographical examination some part which
was little known before very welcome, and such work that Mr.
The author made his especial task examine and survey the
Kjalvegur country between and Central Iceland.
Although this route annually used travellers, and has been described
various scientific men,* Mr. Bisiker the first who has surveyed this region
detail, and has published his book excellent map the central part
Kjalvegur, which gives his work permanent value. hoped that the
author will continue his explorations little-known districts Iceland else-
where, which has well commenced. Work plentiful everywhere, but the
trained labourers are few. party stayed some time the remarkable group
warm springs Hveravellir, explored the neighbourhood, and ascended the
volcano Strytur and other adjacent summits. and its surroundings
were examined Olafsson 1752, and were fully described Ebenezer
Henderson but since then the warm springs are much changed. From
Hveravellir Mr. Bisiker made excursion Kerlingarfjéll, wild mountain
group liparite, where great solfataras and fumaroles burst forth deep fissures
amidst ice and snow; the sulphurous fumes have converted the rocks into soil
various colours, and the whole scene has grand and fantastic character unmatched
avy other part here Mr. Bisiker proceeded the pretty
Lake which filled with fragments ice from two glaciers which
extend into the water. these places are well and clearly described the
author very agreeable style. After his researches Kjalvegur were ended,
Mr. Bisiker travelled Reykjavik, the lava caves Surtshellir, Stykkishélmur
and then coasting steamer round Cape Nord the north and
east coast. therefore saw only small portion inhabited Iceland, and his
route, except Kjalvegur, touched districts which have been repeatedly described
travellers, had opportunities for fresh inquiries.
The book contains many striking photographs which give good picture
Icelandic scenery and manner travelling, and several are also geographical
and geological interest. many English books travel Icelandic names are
have myself, among others, described the geography and geology this region
the (Copenhagen, 1889), pp. 10-29; and Ymer (Stockholm,
1889), pp. 49-59, where also found special map the hot springs Hvera-
‘Iceland; or, the Journal Residence that Island during the Years 1814
and 1815.’ Henderson. Edinburgh. 1818. This work still every
respect the best, most complete, and trustworthy narrative travel Iceland that
exists English.
Das Ausland (Stuttgart, 1889), No. pp. 161-164.
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REVIEWS. 305
incorrectly spelled that whole course study necessary order recognize
them, but Mr. Bisiker writes the names correctly rule, though can quote
some exceptions which should corrected new edition. The following are
the most important errors: for Hoff for Hofs
for etc. The descriptions the traveller’s experiences are written
lively and entertaining manner, and but few errors can found. The following,
however, should corrected new edition. 109 said the new
road from Thingvellir Reykjavik that the only one any length all
Iceland, for miles long.” not correct, for the recently made road
from Reykjavik the southern lowland over Hellisheidi has length more than
miles. 114 the author says that Reykjavik has 4000 inhabitants, whereas,
according the last census, has 7500. the same place says that almost
all the business men Reykjavik are Danes, but, fact, the majority trades-
men Reykjavik and other places Iceland are natives,* and there are hardly
more than five six Danish families Reykjavik and perhaps ten twelve
the whole island. All the officials Iceland are exception
not one isa Dane. The cathedral Reykjavik not built wood, but brick.
the end the book find list Hill, the plants collected
during tours Iceland and the islands, with some interesting notices the
vegetation Kjalvegur. The plants named have, indeed, been all found before
these districts, with the exception Ophioglossim vulgatum from Hveravellir
this plant has been previously reported from only two places Iceland—Gunna
Reykjanes and Bjarnarflag Myvatn. late years the plant-geography Ice-
land bas received much more attention than previously, especially from the Ice-
botanists Helgi Jonsson and Stefan Stefansson, who have published many
articles their investigations. Helgi Jonsson has also made especial examinations
alga vegetation, while fungi, mosses, and lichens have been the object investi-
gations the Danish botanists, Rostrup and Chr.
THORODDSEN.
ASIA.
Armand Colin. 1903.
spite its unpretentious appearance, this work serious value, and
does not present the mere impressions tourist like the greater number
modern books Japan. The author, formerly professor the Imperial University
Tokyo, claims have spent over three years the study, first hand, the
social and economic conditions the country, during journeys made through the
length and breadth it, which gave him the opportunity mixing intimately
the inner life the people. His views Japanese questions are thus deserving
careful attention, even though they may not always meet with general accept-
ance. The separate fully the constitution, politics, administration,
industries, commerce, etc., the country, the conclusion being supported
array statistics, which certainly seem justify them many The
According official statistics there were Reykjavik, 1899, traders,
whom were Icelanders, and 200 business houses the whole island, which 156
were owned natives, while the remaining were the hands Danes, Englishmen,
and Norwegians.
306
writer takes throughout unusually pessimistic view Japan under modern
conditions, laying much stress the poverty the country, evidenced the
scarcity capital, the want thrift the part the people, the drain caused
the constant excess imports over forth. regards the
want thrift, which considers proved the smallness the deposits per head
the savings banks compared with the figures for European countries, this
surely not quite fair conclusion, the smallness the deposits would
necessary result the poverty which says much. his general verdict
the state the country, adopts the view recently expressed native
writer, that, spite the apparently progressive character the Japanese, China
—that say, the mass the people distinguished from the government—is
reality the more advanced. short, considers that the so-called modern
advance Japan, only the worst parts Western civilization which have
been adopted. should mentioned that Dr. Dumolard has been hitherto
known writer under the pseudonym Far East.”
Across Coveted Lands; or, journey from Flushing (Holland) Caleutta, Overland.’
Henry Savage Landor. Two vols. London: 1902.
Although nominally description the whole journey from Flushing
Calcutta, these volumes are mainly devoted the Persian section the route—
the coveted lands the title, somewhat misleading expression, for, them-
selves least, the countries described offer little stimulate the covetousness
neighbouring Powers. Mr. Landor entered Persia way Baku and Resht, and
from the capital took the route vid Isfahan and Yezd Kerman. From Kerman
went north, crossing the great Lut desert Birjand, and thence following the
now well-known route through Sistan and northern Baluchistan Quetta.
does not, course, claim have brought back any striking observations from
strictly geographical point view, for country which been frequently
traversed Persia, there little now left for amateur traveller accomplish
this has, however, done some service improving the
popular knowledge the country, its people and antiquities, many the photo-
graphs with which the book liberally provided being decided help this
direction. Mr. Landor crossed the Lut desert at, probably, its most inhospitable
part, and, like the few travellers who had preceded him, and his men suffered
considerably from thirst and heat, though the opposite extreme was often experi-
enced night. His journey, however, was not made, like that Colonel Stewart
(Proc. R.G.S., 1886, 141), the worst season the year. seems have
been unfortunate his camels, who are described timid, and unhappy when
going down hill whereas some travellers have expressed their astonishment
the composure these animals when traversing the most desperately steep
mountain paths (cf. General Haig’s Journey through Yemen,” 1887,
483). Much said the ruins met with various parts, especially those
Zaidan Sistan, which considerable number illustrations are given. Mr.
Landor perhaps disposed exaggerate the importance these ruins, which are
not very imposing except for the distance over which they are spread. Major
Sykes has pointed out, they probably, for the most part, represent villages which
lined the banks irrigation canal, and there nothing very remarkable
the congregation the population this manner, when consider their depen-
dence artificial water-supply this generally arid region. The author gives
The Lut means interminable expanse sand, but traversed
frequent ranges hills,
if
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307
his views freely questions trade and politics, and times does not stint
his criticism all and sundry who have either written travelled the
country. addition the photographs, there are some clever sketches the
author’s own hand, and not always easy distinguish the two first sight,
especially as, some cases, certain amount manipulation the photographs
has been necessary secure good prints.
AFRICA.
MADAGASCAR AND THE
Physique, Naturelle Politique Madagascar: Livre Premier, L’Origine
des Hachette Paris. 1901.
Since the French occupation the great island Malagasy studies have naturally
received fresh impulse, and pleasant find the veteran pioneer, Alfred
Grandidier, still taking the lead with new instalment his classical work the
geography and natural history Madagascar, and the origin and ethnical
relations its inhabitants. apology perhaps due the learned author for
unavoidable delay directing our readers’ attention this new section the
work—that devoted Ethnography—a first part which was issued Messrs.
the previous publications, with almost embarrassing abundance notes
and notes the notes, often overflowing into two three pages, and leaving but
few lines the actual text each.* But was evidently found impossible
modify fusion this somewhat awkward arrangement the subject matter, and
the serious student will still grateful for even apparent superfluity valuable
data drawn from the most diverse and out-of-the-way oriental and European
sources.
Grandidier’s well-known views the constituent elements the exceed-
ingly mixed Malagasy populations remain virtually unchanged, nor, indeed,
has later research brought anything light requiring him modify the conclu-
sions had already advanced the historical section his work issued
some twenty years ago. the racial diversity and unity speech pre-
valent throughout the island, regards the bulk the natives amalgam,
not the historical Malays and African negroes, but the Oceanic Mongols (proto-
Malays) and Oceanic Negroes (Melanesians), and traces the common speech, not
so-called Malayo-Polynesian,” but Melanesian source. langue Mal-
gache existait certainement, telle qu’elle est aujourd’hui, longtemps avant venue
des Malais, qui sont les directs des Andriana nobles [the
so-called Hovas], n’est pas douteux qu’elle été apportée par les négres indo-
dont les immigrations successives ont peuplé Madagascar (p. 11).
This substantial agreement with the views held Man, Past and
Present,’ the chief difference being that bring the negro element, not from Me-
lanesia, but mainly from Africa. must, the same time, admitted that our
author’s theory, could upheld, would long way explain the astonish-
ing prevalence language Oceanic type amid the mixed Mongolo-Negroid
Malagasy populations. The difficulties, however, which prevent general accept-
ance this theory seem unsurmountable.
several pages (79, 93, 101, there are only two lines actual text, and
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308 REVIEWS.
another, and that most important point, glad find myself com-
plete accord with Grandidier. has reference the Semitic immigrations and
settlements, which does not limit with most authorities late (post-Koranic)
times, but traces back the days David and Solomon, and even earlier
Idumean Jews from the Red sea. présence colonie iduméenne Madagas-
car n’a pas lieu nous surprendre, car sait que dés plus hauté antiquité les
Arabes Yemen [Himyarites] ont fréquenté orientale d’Afrique aussi loin
moins que Sofala, est certain que des Comores
Madagascar ont recu visite leurs boutres” (p. 96). This statement, having
such direct bearing the question the gold Ophir,” all the more valu-
able, since made without any reference that problem, which nowhere
discussed our author.
The other racial elements discovered him amid the present heterogeneous
populations the island are the Persians and later (Muhammadan) Arabs, the East
Indians, Japanese, Chinese, Africans, and Europeans. But although treated with
exhaustive learning, none these intruders were numerous enough perceptibly
influence the physique culture the natives, and may regarded des
quantités négligeables the general discussion Malagasy ethnography.
Another work the present condition the island claims special attention,
thanks both the great variety and trustworthiness its contents. consists
series carefully prepared monographs the geography, geology, biology,
climate, and European colonization Madagascar, contributed MM. Guillaume
Grandidier (son Alfred Grandidier), Blanchard, Boule, Marre, and
other accepted authorities. All these subjects have already been ably treated
Messrs. Sibree, Dahl, Richardson, and other English writers, both the Antana-
narivo Annual and separate works, that detailed account the French
publication may here dispensed with. Special mention challenged
Boule’s exceptionably able geological paper, where the land connections the island
with Africa and India, first Triassic and again somewhat early Tertiary times,
clearly set forth. parait bien certain, Madagascar des
relations étroites fois avec avec pendant Trias.
saurait expliquer autrement les ressemblances vraiment extraordinaires que
nous avons constatées entre les animaux terrestres les plantes fossiles des deux
continents que sépare aujourd’hui toute Indien.... Une
nouvelle jonction aprés les premiers temps tertiaires, car non-seulement
parait étre dépourvue des marins plus récents que mais encore
faut expliquer passage des Mammiféres des Lému-
riens qui peuvent étre que les descendants des Lémuriens nos gisements
tertiaires (p. 62).
Boer and other intending immigrants would well advised consult the
section devoted the climate and economic prospects the island.
‘Madagascar. Essai Géographie Physique.’ Par Gautier. Maps and
trations. Paris: 1902.
This work not, its title would lead expect, restricted wholly the
physical geography the great African island, for good third devoted
account the inhabitants, their manners and customs, and other branches
anthropogeography. is, however, the larger portion dealing with the physical
structure and surface features that the main importance the book lies, and from
this point view the most satisfactory account the island that has yet
appeared. Masterly have been the sketches its major features supplied
—
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REVIEWS. 309
various scientific papers Grandidier, have not yet had from the hand
the veteran explorer the detailed treatment that here attempted Gautier,
who the mean time particularly well qualified for the task, the extent
his own itineraries Madagascar, and his careful study all that has been written
others. His work, therefore, not only presents full summary existing
knowledge, but possesses original value from his ability test and amplify the
conclusions others the results his own researches. His views may not,
perhaps, always accepted, but they least merit careful attention rational
explanations the phenomena observed. The excellent physical maps are
themselves valuable aids knowledge Madagascan geography.
the first chapter, which discusses the question Lemuria,” the author does
not venture pronounce definitely between the rival theories that have been
brought forward, but evidently inclined give the greater weight the
views Wallace, and think that the ancient communication with India and the
East was rather disconnected land masses than continuous continent.* The
next three chapters describe the geological features, beginning—somewhat strangely,
except for the world-wide importance such action—with the recent manifestations
volcanic activity. with the structural orography, discussed the fifth
chapter, that are more nearly concerned here, but attention may drawn
the general conclusions regarding past geological history sketched 90.
author shows that the sedimentary strata which abut the great gneissic plateau
the west, represent four successive stages the retreat the sea from that
plateau, from Triassic modern times. The formations, still the main horizontal,
terminate true escarpments well marked those the Paris basin, though
their real character has not hitherto been recognized. regards the general
morphology the surface, Gautier regards the great gneiss plateau horst, all
sides which the adjoining parts the crust have sunk many hundred feet. Though
generally called plateau, the very irregular, but series longitudinal
folds parallel the axis the island can distinguished, and this circumstance
due the sudden change from even line broken contour observable when
the wall the plateau leaves its north and south direction. transverse series
feature-lines exists also, though its presence was long overlooked. There are,
fact, three great systems transverse valleys, which have had most important
influence the history the island. The western sedimentary formations owe
their present relief almost entirely erosion, and here the characteristic lines run
east and west, shown the outline the coasts. Gautier, however,
ascribes some the features here, too, tectonic causes, supposing that series
transverse faults, which have yet precise knowledge, have resulted
differential sinking the crust parts this The effects erosion are
discussed chap. vii. (chapter vi. being devoted careful consideration the
distinct climatic regions the island), prominence being given the great Triassic
valley running from north south, the importance which Gautier first
called attention some ten years ago.
brief notice must suffice for the remaining contents the volume, though
their interest means lessens proceed. The distinct regions (due
differences climate) into which the island divided from the point view
its flora are sketched the eighth chapter, well the subordinate variaticns
due differences soil, elevation, etc. noteworthy fact that the compara-
tively luxuriant vegetation the east due solely the more plentiful rainfall,
The argument based the discovery Cretaceous fossils the east coast
Madagascar does not, however, tell against the idea still earlier connection.
‘
310 REVIEWS.
for the covering humus overlying the unfertile laterite often very scanty.
instructive study the coasts the island next given, their varying character-
istics, and the influence which these, well the direction which they face,
have had the history, being well brought out. discussing the origin the
Malagasy, Gautier adopts Grandidier’s views their Melanesian affinities,
but comes decision respecting the Hovas (Merinas), whose language thinks
has been adopted from the conquered Malagasy. Whether Malay not, their
conquest was only one among many similar episodes, and considers their pre-
dominant position the result the special character the district which
they settled.
‘South Africa and its Future.’ Edited Louis Creswicke. London and Edinburgh
Jack. 1903.
There much this volume which may help the general reader form some
estimate the prospects and resources South Africa, question which more
than any other engages the attention the public the present time. consists
series articles different contributors the special branches the general
subject, including the questions emigration, mining, agriculture, commerce, and
the like. The greater number the contributors write decidedly optimistic
spirit, and many will, doubt, consider that they have left too much out view
the inevitable difficulties the way future development. This, however,
fault—if such be—on the right side, for the mere fact that hopeful view
shown possible must some extent help progress. The importance
properly organized system emigration forcibly shown the Duke
Argyll, who points the almost inexplicable lack effort this direction the
past, and the especial need for the sending out white women South
the chapter Mining elaborate calculation made the probable total
value the exploitable gold deposits, which put the high figure some
2800 millions, while the opinion expressed that the new conditions will act
strongly favour the industry. Little attention paid this chapter
the effect such development the prosperity the community large,
the subject being considered rather from the special point view the industry
itself. The chapter the agricultural outlook, the editor, deals with possi-
bilities which the benefit the community less open question,
and here, too, extremely sanguine view taken, which will certainly not
accepted final all quarters. Mr. Creswicke has great faith the possibilities
irrigation, which considers may add acres the cultivated area,
addition possible extra 10,000,000 acres dependent rainfall only. Mr.
Bleloch’s chapter railways contains some useful statistics, though the accom-
panying map not quite date. Mr. Eglinton’s contribution commercial
prospects likewise written optimistic vein, but the arguments occasionally
appear somewhat superficial. What valid conclusion, can derived from the
strange supposition that the total value the imports from Great Britain, divided
the total number the black population, gives indication the actual,
even possible, purchases per head such population, the same figure divided
the number whites being also taken give the amount spent each white
man? If, however, may take even approximately correct the estimate that
five years’ time the mining industry alone will involve the annual expenditure
£50,000,000 stores, machinery, wages, etc., the prospective advantages the
manufacturers this country, provided they show themselves equal the occasion,
must certainly beyond dispute.
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311
MATHEMATICAL GEOGRAPHY,
the North Pole Star, Lat. 38° Lat. for use until the year
1915.’ Sidney Roberts (Dominion and Provincial Land Surveyor). Victoria,
Thos. Cusack. April, $2.
the pole-star not situated exactly over the North Pole, direct line
with the Earth’s axis rotation, whenever used for the determination
latitude azimuth, certain corrections have made, which add considerably
the work computation. regards latitude, the necessary corrections are given
the Nautical Almanac, and are readily applied the observed altitude; but the
surveyor who wishes mark off accurately the north and south line means
the star has hitherto had through fair amount figuring before can
so, has hand some table the azimuths the star for certain hour angles
and latitudes, such that given the French ‘Connaissance des Temps.’ This
table, however, besides other disadvantages, only correct for one year, and not
generally accessible. Realizing these facts, Mr. Roberts, Dominion and
Provincial land surveyor British Columbia, four years ago published table
which gave the azimuths the pole-star certain intervals time for the years
1899 and 1900, for use between lats. 48° and N., which proved consider-
able service. has now issued second edition, which great improvement
upon the former, not only from the fact that the limit latitude has been
extended that the table can used between lats. and 55° but
account its being available for considerable number years—until 1915.
The method which this latter advantage has been secured interesting and
ingenious. First table azimuths the star has been computed for different
hour angles and every degree latitude with assumed polar distance
11’ and then there are two tables from which corrections are obtained
applied the quantity taken from this general table, due the difference
between the assumed polar distance 11’ 40”, and that given the Nautical
Almanac for the date. The first these latter tables gives the correction
azimuth for each degree latitude for hour angle and then with
the quantity thus obtained the second table entered, and the required correction
found for the hour angle the star the time observation, and applied the
azimuth taken from the table computed with polar distance
The whole process does not take long, and after the hour angle the pole-
star has been computed, surveyor can, very few moments, put his instrument
the true meridian with fair amount accuracy, although for astronomical
work, such the determination longitude moon culminating stars, must
only considered first approximation, and the more exact methods, such
high and low stars, should finally employed. The angles are given the
nearest tenth minute arc instead seconds,
can doubt that Mr. Roberts’ tables will found service
surveyors Canada and the United States, for whose use they have been specially
prepared and, indeed, they could often used with advantage any part the
world included within the stated parallels latitude.
OCEANOGRAPHY.
Tur OckANOGRAPHY OF THE “ VALDIVIA,”
Wissenschaftliche Ergebnisse der Deutschen auf dem Dampfer
Valdivia, Auftrage des Reichsamtes des Innern herausgegeben
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312 REVIEWS.
von Carl Chun. Erster Band. Oceanographie und Maritime Meteorologie.
Auftrage des Reichs-Marine-Amtes bearbeitet yon Dr. Gerhard Schott. Jena:
Gustaf Fischer. 1902. Text and Atlas.
All concerned the production these splendid volumes deserve credit for the
result their labours. Dr. Schott, who was the oceanographer, and later also the
meteorologist, the expedition board the Valdivia, has had the good fortune
being charged with the discussion the data collected, and with seeing
printed spacious page giving full scope for the most luxurious tables and
diagrams. has been able produce series maps showing the distribution
each element the observations, which the letterpress subsidiary impor-
tance. These maps utilize the work the Valdivia only supplement and correct
previously ascertained data, hence they really give epitome existing know-
ledge regarding the oceanography the Atlantic and Indian and they
are all drawn equivalent area projection, they are available for the calculation
relative areas direct measurement.
The cruise the Valdivia has been described this Journal (vol. xii. 494,
569; xiii. 297, 336, 640), and comprehensive preliminary paper Dr. Schott
his department the work has also appeared (vol. xiv. 518), that un-
necessary recapitulate the incidents the voyage, its general results.
are presented here with detailed account the instrumental and mechanical
equipment the ship for cceanographical followed clearly subdivided
chapters the Depths, Temperature, Salinity, etc., and Currents the seas that
were traversed, and also the Meteorology the cruise, these chapters supply-
ing not only results, but also the actual observations set out full, and expressed
curves and profiles well figures. thus possible see what the
Valdivia did each department, and how far ker work adds the sum know-
ledge.
The 186 deep-sea soundings are placed map which all other accessible
data had been inserted metres the nearest hundred. The isobaths were then
drawn yield what really new bathymetrical chart the whole Atlantic
and Indian oceans. The only part left blank for want data the region east
South Georgia, where the Antarctic and Scotia are now work. Perhaps the
most interesting feature added the Atlantic the Valdivia bank the
ridge (as Schott terms it), which gives new definiteness the separation between
the West African and the South African depressions, the latter itself also rendered
far more definite the soundings her way Bouvet island. the
Southern ocean the great extension the deep sea was important gain; but
there use present speculating the configuration that region, the
Gauss and Discovery have already added and modified the results.
may possibly that the Marion and Crozet islands will found connected
ridge, least less deep part the ocean. Dr. Schott believes that
the great Indian-Antarctic basin, discovered the Valdivia, indicates extension
very deep water far within the antarctic circle. Gauss will certainly throw
light this point. The mean depth the South Indian ocean, far can
at, twice great Karstens estimated 1894. Considerable
additions have been made our knowledge the detailed configuration the
Indian ocean, the structure which, once believed very simple and uniform,
gradually being shown extremely varied and complex.
Many plates the atlas are devoted the mapping the temperature the
water, and those form, perhaps, its most important part. one turns over shect
after sheet one realizes more and more fully how the voyage the Valdivia has
furnished opportunity for increasing the data oceanography.
REVIEWS. 313
Besides map mean surface isotherms the two oceans, there are isothermal
maps for the depths 50, 100, 150, 200, 400, 600 and 800 metres. Similar maps
are familiar readers Dr. discussion oceanic circulation the
Challenger Reports; but these were for different intervals depth, and Dr. Schott
has drawn his maps novo from the original material. would interesting
compare the two sets maps and discuss the necessity duplicating vast
mass recent work; but just here that the British Isles feel the
effects our scientific isolation. cling our fathoms and our Fahrenheit
degrees because they are familiar us, and try justify the attitude point-
ing out certain inherent elements superiority they possess over meters and Centi-
grade degrees. reaching the attention continental men science
concerned, might well write Gaelic; and Dr. Schott, rather than attempt
interpret the existing maps, has translated all the original temperatures and depths
the continental standards and mapped them afresh. the present case
the diversity notations far greater barrier than the diversity languages)
the more deplored because the author gives flat denial some the
conclusions which Dr. Buchan believed had fully established, and looked upon
great importance. Dr. Schott also complains that the 1000 temperature
observations the German ship Gazelle were not utilized preparing the
Challenger charts. any case, and for whatever reason, are confronted with
the fact that great piece scientific work has been done twice over. Careful
comparison will doubtless reveal more confirmation than contradiction the
results each.
There are also maps showing the position depth several the more im-
portant isotherms over the oceans, and detailed study the upwelling deep
water along various parts the African coast, which seems remarkably well
done. note, the way, with some satisfaction that Dr. Schott cannot find
two German words which shall distinguish between water different origin homo-
geneously mixed together and water different origin flowing separate though
contiguous and inter-crossing streams. rarely that the English language
yields readier terms for confluent phenomena than German can supply, but
this case could least distinguish the waters mixed one case and inter-
mingled the
The temperature data are also expressed curves and profiles, some which
are very great interest. Those the far south, where the alternate layers
warmer and colder water characteristic the Antarctic regions appear, will
attract particular attention. from the appearance the curves change
temperature with depth, the observations made board the Valdivia seem
have been satisfactory accuracy.
applying his results the question the cause oceanic circulation,
Dr. Schott finds that the movement the surface the sea the cause the move-
ments all depths, for Varenius, with his mastery principles and his terseness
expression, put centuries ago, pars movetur, totus oceanus movetur.
There are many problems touched this volume and atlas which
would like refer. Amongst them may note the discussion the influence
exercised the respective oceans from the outflow the Mediterranean and the
Red sea, and the cooling influence exercised the Antarctic seas the waters
all the oceans, Space, however, forbids further comment, nor will permit
more than mention the beautiful maps salinity and density, and the
discussion the meteorological observations. must end began,
congratulating Dr. Schott the way which has taken advantage his
opportunities work afloat and study ashore, and the admirable result
:
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REVIEWS.
HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
THe
Handy Classical Maps.’
London: Murray. 1s. wet.
EMPIRE.
Edited
Roman
Grundy.
The plan these maps, with their clear printing and distinction epochs,
seems excellent. One map, with relief distinguished tints,
placed side side with another untinted, except along the frontier lines the
Empire. small scale equal clearness probably could not have been attained
otherwise. have printed one map tissue paper, and have allowed
fall precisely upon the other, would have been even better, had durability not had
considered. complete index added. One cannot help noticing, how-
ever, considerable unevenness the accurate delineation detail the upper
map. small projection this might disregarded, were not that
minute accuracy evidently aimed certain parts. must therefore ask
why, the three high points Crete are all specially shaded, the great Mesaorea
plain Cyprus tinted uniformly over 600 feet? Why broad belt green
runs all round the north and west Asia Minor, often reality the coast
fringed high ranges? Why, among mountains rising over 3000 feet, there
indication Taygetus, the range, the higher points the lesser
islands (which, indeed, all appear under 600 feet)? points over
9000 feet, Olympus, the Rila Liubotrn, the Van volcanoes, and Sahend
not appear? And why, the other hand, Hermon and the inner range Midian
appear the highest category regard the lower map, there nothing
criticize any importance. the wrong side the Bahr
Yusuf, the upper map also. suppose that the editor’s plan not
take account additions the Empire after 100 and that for this reason
Dacia and the trans-Euphratean conquests Trajan are not included within the
ATLAS.
New Students’ Atlas English Emil Reich.
London and New York.
Macmillan Co.,
This series what Dr. Reich calls plastic maps,” with notes and index,
for the use students all ages. The main idea suggest the movement
events and their dynamic nature coloured lines and arrows—in itself admirable
idea, and worked out here fully consistent with clearness such small
scale. But these maps contain hill-work suggestion contours, they are
hardly themselves express history terms geography. Dr.
idea, fact, ought further applied maps larger scale, and,
possible, relief models. For the present instalment, however, are duly
thankful. The maps the great majority cases show military movements—that
majority rather large for series based avowedly Green’s
but there are also others showing the progress enclosure and discovery, the dis-
tribution fiefs and abbeys. might have expected one least showing the
growth towns, and would have exchanged for the three illustrative British
genius. one may fairly question the standard adopted determine that
rare quality. Dr. Reich relies the Dictionary National Biography,’
Sir Stephen and Mr. Sidney Lee, very good authorities indeed, but not
conclusive.
314
REVIEWS.
berichte zur den Neudruck seiner von
Von Franz Schulze. Strassburg: 1902.
The voyage India Springer (by some also written Sprenger
special interest, the first undertaken Germans after the sea-route had been
opened Vasco Gama. Before 1505 the merchants Italy had already
gained entry into the new field, but was only after the despatch Lisbon,
the Welsers Augsburg, their agents Simon Seitz and Lucas Rem 1503
and 1504, that similar privileges were conceded the Germans. result
the agreement concluded Rem 1504, three ships were fitted out the
merchant princes Germany, and their sailing with the fleet d’Almeida
1505, two German factors, Hans Mayr and Springer, went out them.
Mayr wrote account the voyage, which has remained manuscript, but
Springer’s work was printed, though each the three editions extremely rare.
has long been felt that the work was worthy reprint, and this has now
been supplied, facsimile, the work quoted above.
This work, however, much more than mere re-issue Springer’s text and
illustrations, for the editorial matter forms three-quarters the whole, and includes
careful studies Springer’s life-history (so far known), the circumstances
under which the work was published, its contents, and the position
assigned the author original contributor knowledge. some his
conclusions, the editor merely follows Harrisse and others, but other doubtful
questions attempts independent solution. careful inquiries most
the great libraries the world, has come the conclusion that only four copies
the larger German edition (the one now reprinted) exist the present day, and
one these imperfect. There Latin version, which manuscript has
lately been found the University Library Giessen, having previously been
known only from printed copy put in, make-weight, the second volume
the Voyage Littéraire deux Religieux Bénédictines’ (Marténe and Durand),
published Paris 1724. Herr Schulze gives reasons for thinking that this was
printed from the actual manuscript now Giessen, blanks have been left
passages where the writing this illegible. thinks that this Latin version
was merely report Springer’s employers, which was subsequently published
German more popular form, first explanatory text the seven woodcuts
the Augsburg engraver, Burgkmair (the smaller German edition), and after-
wards more full, with thirteen woodcuts, the larger German edition. Herr
Schulze makes careful analysis the showing what large amount
information the countries visited (including the African coasts), supplied
Springer, who, though not educated man, was intelligent and capable
observer. also undertakes detailed comparison with other works from which,
conceivably, Springer might have borrowed his information, especially the German
translation, Ruchamer, the rare Italian collection, Paesi novamente retrovati
The result, his opinion, show that the agreements bear
small proportion the differences, that there valid reason doubt
the originality Springer’s work.
Herr Schulze shows that the balance evidence favour Springer the
correct form,
quoting the title this, omits the last word, and fails
make sense. The full title is, ‘Paesi novamente retrovati Novo Mondo Aberico
Vesputio Florentino intitulato.’
31
316
THE MONTHLY RECORD.
EUROPE.
Altitude Trees the Cairngorm Mountains.—In paper read before
the Andersonian Naturalists’ Society Glasgow November last, and printed
the Cairngorm Club Journal, vol. iv. No. 20, January, 1903, Mr. Boyd Watt
gives some notes the altitudes above the sea reached various species trees
the Cairngorm mountains. Mr. Watt’s own observations have been made
principally the forests Abernethy and Rothiemurchus, the northern side
the range, and various glens the Braemar district, the south; but also
embodies observations made his behalf Tomintoul, east Abernethy. The
height which the Scotch pines die out seems about 1500 feet, though
both these pines and larches reach nearly the summit Creag Choinnich
Braemar (1764 feet). birch the only other tree which attains this altitude,
and this seems hold its own better than the Scotch pine. Above 1500 feet,
the Braemar birch woods, the trees, though well proportioned, are often not more
than feet height. the Morrone wood—a typical birch one, with under-
growth heather, juniper, and bracken, though Scotch pines appear places—
there are occasional aspens 1500 feet. Mr. Watt gives list other trees
found above 1100 feet (the aititude Tomintoul 1160), from which appears
that the lime, sycamore, laburnum, wild cherry, ash, elm, alder, hazel, and least
two willows occur between 1100 and 1200 feet, while the mountain ash, hawthorn,
horse-chestnut, and beech reach least 1100. Most the last named are,
course, introduced.
The Snow-line Norway.—Norway rightly called snowy land. the
south snow covers the ground for only two three weeks, but further north
remains much longer, two three months, and half the year.
has been reckoned that per cent. Norway covered with permanent snow,
but this certainly too high estimate. According Helland, fully 5000
kilometres (1430 square miles) are buried snow throughout the year, which
the accounts for 330 square miles, or, with the closely adjacent glaciers,
483 square miles, while the Folgefond, Svartisen, Aalfotbre and Frostisen have
aggregate area somewhat less than this. The remainder the permanent snow
scattered over the country small patches. Dr. Hansen (Norske Geogr.
Aarbog, 1901-2) has compiled map snow-lines, taking limit the level
which glaciers under the most favourable topographical conditions descend
average. ‘These lines show clearly that the snow-line thus defined rises consider-
ably towards the The snow-line contours run the whole parallel the
coast—south-south-west north-north-east—and are not determined the lati-
tude. Glaciers first appear distance miles from the coast, and here
end height 600 metres (1970 feet). The other contours run nearly parallel
this till height 1800 metres (2600 feet) reached the country between
Jotunheim and Rondene. Where the large fiords penetrate into the land the
contours are thrown eastwards. comparison these contours with tempera-
ture chart shows that the snow-line stands direct relation the mean annual
temperature, and that where the winter mildest, along the coast, the snow-line
lowest. ‘The summer heat, however, has marked effect the height the
snow-line. precipitation reaches maximum axis lying about miles
from the coast, and amounts about inches south Stad, and inches and over
Nordland. the whole the rainfall contours accord with those permanent
snow, the snow-line lying highest over the drier sile country.
4
THE MONTHLY RECORD.
317
Certain exceptiuns, however, may noticed, and must also remembered that
heavy summer rains are very effective washing away snow. The height the
snow-line seems, then, depend the summer heat, which melts the covering
snow, and the winter rains and snow. lower near the coast where
Atlantic cyclones with heavy winter precipitation prevail, and high the interior
where the winter dry and falls summer.
The Highest Mountain Sweden.— Until recently little was known the
elevation the country Swedish Lapland, and until the end the seventies the
Sulitelma group was considered the highest elevation Sweden.
however, the Sarjetjakko was ascended Bucht and its height, measured two
was found 6980 feet, 804 feet greater than that Sulitelma.
Afterwards another claimant was for the honour being the highest
summit, the Kebnekaise, but the measurements taken were not accurate enough
the question. 1896 Prof. Roséa spent two weeks the neighbour-
hood, when, however, the atmospheric conditions were unfavourable and the highest
point the rarely visible. was able complete his survey
1902, when fully determined the height and position the mountain. His
Stuor Niak, These and lesser heights, given No. 1902, are
marked the topographical map Norrbotten, the scale 200,000.
Canals proposed the Limburg coalfields into
direct water-communication with the Schelde, the scheme being rectify the
course the and Nethe, connection being made with the latter river and
the Campine considered probable that, order carry out this plan
effectually, will necessary deflect the course the Rupel for about miles
between and its meeting with the Schelde, and soon this definitely
settled, junction will effected between the Rupel and the enlarged Willebroeck
canal, which connects Malines, and Antwerp. Another canal under con-
sideration connect the small town Selzaete with point the Schelde
some miles atove Antwerp. This would bring Antwerp and Ghent into
navigable communication, the latter being already connected with Selzaete the
Terneuzen canal.
ASIA.
The Morphology the Coasts the Sea Aral.—Describing the
coasts the lake the Annuaire Russie, vol. Nos.
and Mr. berg divides them into four types—jagged, regular, and embayed
coasts (the glatte, and and alluvial coasts
the mouths rivers. the first type belongs the northern coast from
tamak bay. divided the peninsulas Kulandi, Karatyup,
and Kuk Ternak into five gulfs considerable breadth, where depths
nearly 100 feet were sounded, while the middle the sea depth over feet
was found. steep northern bank, 490 feet above the water, consists hori-
zontal strata Lower Tertiary age. They are not dislocated any great degree
except the southern shore the Kulandi peninsula. types coast
also particular parts, and the effect abrasion clearly marked the
friable argillaceous rocks, considerable masses which fall into the sea and form
submarine terraces which would shelter the coast from further attacks, were
not for the rise the level the water, which late has amounted about
inches annually. Owiog the dryness the climate there hardly any
rain, and the cliffs present perpendicular front the water. The
surf also its work abrasion the mantle ice which lies the
No.
i
318 THE MONTHLY RECORD.
northern coast from the middle December the ead April, attaining
severe winters thickness feet. When breaks and carried along
the current, cuts like saw into the face the cliffs. The western shore
extends for distance 150 miles along the steep margin the Ust-urt plateau,
with height 520 feet. Along this stretch contains not one bay any
depth—only large-scale map are any sinuosities perceptible—and not single
island lies off the coast. the foot the declivity lies the deepest hollow the
Sea Aral, with depths-of over 100 feet and maximum 223 (see map
vol. xix. No. banks are composed marls and limestones the
middle and lower Sarmatian series. eastern shore south the mouth
the Sir Daria sandy, and hard rock nowhere visible. The coast-line broken
numerous small and shallow inlets, mile less length, while the largest,
the Bik-tau, has length miles and breadth The low eastern coast
the bed the old Aralo-Caspian sea modified eolian agents. studded
with shallow basins with smooth clayey bottoms and wind-blown
ridges enclosing hollows. When the sea rises, now doing, makes its way,
with the assistance the wind, through the intervening low ridges, and converts
the basins and hollows into winding inlets, while the promontories along the shore
are cut off from the mainland and become islands. The growth the Sir Daria
delta can traced with great exactness, for has been surveyed four times from
1847 1900. The funnel-shaped mouth, which 1847 extended length
miles, with breadth miles and depth feet, has been silted up, and
the delta has been pushed far forward into the sea. estimated that the area
the delta has been enlarged during the interval 14} square miles. the
south coast are regular shore-lines with deltas stretching out into the water.
Berg’s illustrations show remarkable examples abrasion, deflation, etc.
Bolaang-Mongondo Celebes.—By the agreement 1895 the boundary
between the Dutch province Minahassa and the autonomous state
Mongondo was defined following the Poigar river the Celebes sea and the
Baiyas Buyat river Tomini bay. was subsequently ascertained that the
Poigar rises the Danou and that the sources the two are not near
together. gain some knowledge the frontier lands, Heer Veenhuizen
set out April, 1900, from Amurang, and, passing Minahassa and ascending
the crossed the Gunung Senayap Sinayap into the Poizar basin.
his way the latter river through very hilly country, turned fora short
distance along the path Bolaiing, examine some warm springs
temperature, which dry weather give out such powerful sulphur fumes that
impossible pass them. Then continued his journey the Danou
which has length nearly miles and maximum breadth 1800 yards.
Its surface lies about 3350 feet above sea-level. The temperature the water was
ing due warm springs, for the neighbourhood volcanic, and weathered pumice-
stone lies above the clay soil the depth inch. the west the lake rises
the Ambang, extinct some 6000 feet high, the summit which
crater lake acres extent; and the north the much lower
Pinupulan mountain”), which seems the western side crater.
Following route the left the river, Heer Veenhuizen the
Limbut height 5500 feet, only few yards from the top, and also the
Gunung Damar, named from the resinous trees which grow it, and reached
the town Poigar the coast. Thence turned the basin the river again,
exploring some the tributaries the right bank, and crossed the watershed
towards the Ranoiapo height 3120 feet, where was seen that (Min.)
7
7
THE MONTHLY RECORD. 319
lies nearer the Poigar than marked maps. also visited the little
lake through which the Poigar flows from south-south-east north-north-
west. lies elevation 2895 feet, has length 440 yards from north
soutb, with maximum breadth 550, and feet deep the middle.
Sinayap was again crossed height 3510 feet, and (Min.) was found
lie 1010 feet above Veenhuizen made another excursion locate
the sources the Buyat. ascended the Sekuyung, its tributary the Pinanga-
toan, and the Pinangatoan-kiri the Gunung Tokulon, and found the highest
source the Buyat the southern side this mountain height 4300 feet.
Thence flows the Buyat-kiri, which, with the Buyat-kanam height
2720 feet, enters the Tomini bay immediately the north the little Rachun
island.
AFRICA.
The Bourg Bozas Expedition: Death the
almost completing his projected journey across the continent, the Vicomte
Bozas has, regret say, lost his life—from fever, said—during the
journey from the Nile the lower Congo. Few recent expeditions have resulted
greater benefits science, for Bourg’s party was carefully organized, and
included experts the several branches scientific study, each whom was
able devote himself his own special subject. The early death the young
traveller—a scion one the oldest French families—is, therefore, serious loss
the African geography. respecting the last stage the journey
have not yet been made known, but the narrative the section, from
Adis Abbaba the Nile, which appears the number Géograpiie,
and which advance proof has courteously been forwarded Rabot,
enables supplement the brief account given our January number.
route south the Omo and Lake Rudolf was chosen avoid, far possible,
the routes previous travellers, though some the ground had previously been
covered the Expedition (among others), the results
which Bourg does not seem have been aware. After passing through the
populous province Gurage, the expedition struck south-east for Sidamo, east
the chain lakes, visit being paid the fertile district Kambata,
and examination made two the aforesaid lakes. M.du Bourg’s description
the lakes somewhat difficult fit with those previous travellers, some
the number being unaccountably omitted. The two first visited are spoken
Shalla and Abassa, apparently the Shale and Abassi Neumann; but nothing
said the lake Lamina, placed the latter, Wellby and Harrison,
immediately the south Shale. however, stated that the level
Shalla has lately risen, seems possible that now forms one sheet water
with Lamina, though from its delineation Bourg’s map, more
probable that represents the latter only. Abassa, said have lately
transgressed its banks, shown the dead trees standing its water. This
pure and good, although there outlet, and extremely clear, whereas the
water Shalla green from minute The lake the east Abassa, which
distinctive name was given Neumann, and is, besides,
very much smaller than the eastern Abassi Neumann. Lake Abbaye, the south,
which very shallow near its northern shores, shows signs recent retreat. Its
waters are very muddy. Bourg states that drained the Sagan
Galana, making mention the intermediate lake Gangjule, which,
indeed, the itinerary did not extend. All the lakes are said quite distinct,
traces connection the form lacustrine sediments being found
|
7
7
7
320 THE MONTHLY RECORD.
the intervening country. traces the occupation country
Mohammed Granye were seen the form stone columns, probably the remains
tombs temples. Hence the route led west across the Bilatti, the main feeder
Abbaye (known higher Wera, evidently the Waira some former maps),
Sidamo, the people which are described more civilized than their neighbours,
and thecountry Theexpedition then went south and west across the moun-
tainous country between Abbaye and the Omo, finally following the river down
Rudolf. recent retreat the waters the lake was noticed, but this thought
merely seasonal, the lake was reached the close the dry
eastern shores are said well wooded and populous. The march was continued
south-west through the Turkana and Karamoyo countries, the water-parting between
Lake Rudolf and the Nile being crossed plateau 5230 feet above the sea.
the Turkana country all the river-beds were called the
Near Mount Torror, isolated peak 6500 feet high, the Igiai—a similar
the Turkana, but less met with, and afterwards the Utumur, small
and timid race, the last the group which speaks the last part
the route led through the Shuli country. Notes are given the geology, fauna,
and climate the countries traversed. Adis Abbaba the frontier
the rocks were all eruptive, but the lower Omo valley covered recent alluvium,
probably laid down the floor vast lake, and this were found the numerous
remains mammalia already alluded (ante, 80). Beyond the Turkana-
Karamoyo frontier the country consisted granite, with its natural accompaniment
laterite.
The Tribes Eastern the first series Occasional
issued the Anthropological sketch the various races
dwelling the region between the Victoria lake and Mount Elgon
supplied Mr. Hobley. The bulk the work more special interest
the ethnologist, deals with the customs the tribes, their subdivisions,
languages, etc.; but the first chapter devoted the wider subject the
affinities and past movements the main racial groups. ‘The peoples described
are classed Mr. Hobley under the four heads Bantu Kavirondo, Nilotic
Kavirondo, Nandi, and Masai groups. route which the first-named
entered the country somewhat doubtful, being possible that they came either
from the west through Uganda, from the south, from Unyamwezi along the
eastern side the lake. Mr. Hobley inclines the latter opinion, both
physically and mentally the Bantu Kavirondo show great differences from the
while the existence Bantu peoples, speaking closely allied dialects,
the islands the mouth Kavirondo bay and the mainland further south
supports the idea, does also the fact alluded the end the work, that
similarity observable with the language spoken Unyamwezi. Indications
northward movements, continued the present day, are also beobserved.* The
invasion the Nilotic who occupy both shores Kavirondo bay, con-
sidered having taken place later date, and have been, fact, the cause
which checked the movement leading the occupation the narrow
plain, which intervenes between the lake and the Nandi escarpment. The
origin and southward migration the Nandi-Lumbwa group are matters un-
certainty, but seems probable that, like the these stocks are result
intermixture between Nilotes and Hamites, the Hamitic strain being, however, less
While assigning the Wanyamwezi tendency south-to-north movement.
Baumann Durch 238) considered ihat the Bantu tribes the east
the Victoria lake had moved contrary direction.
THE MONTHLY RECORD.
321
marked than the Masai. Their migration probably took place fairly remote
period, and seems likely that their former habitat, like their present, was
upland region. The only section the Masai included within
the area dealt with Mr. Hobley—have given the nomadic habits the race,
and now live scattered settlements among the Kavirondo, Nandi, etc. The
Eldorobo other writers) seem survivors aboriginal race,
which Mr. Hobley rather inclined compare with the Nandi—whose language
they have adopted—than with the Negrillo The general survey
closes with comparison the characteristics the Kavirondo and Nandi groups
resulting from the differences their habitats, the cold and fogs the high
Nandi plateau considered have acted detrimentally the temper and
physical development its inhabitants.
The Sabi River Stanley Hyatt, whose map and
description Eastern Mashonaland appeared the Journal for May, 1902, has
returned East where has made study the capabilities the Sabi
river for purposes navigation. writes follows: Sabi and
Lundi rivers join point the Anglo-Portuguese border some 170 miles from
the sea-coast. Above this junction the Sabi carries considerably larger volume
water than its neighbour, the proportion under normal conditions being about
two one. rivers are the same general character, broad sandy
beds and precipitous banks. some miles above their junctiou
there rapid change the level the country, which, the case both rivers,
causes rocky cataracts, rendering these portions the streams quite impassable.
Below its junction with the Lundi, the Sabi follows the general direction the
former river, the bed becoming considerably larger, but still the same
sandy character. From this point onwards there are further rapids. ‘The
width the Sabi varies greatly different points, the becoming some
cases broad mile, others narrowing down half mile. are
considerable number islands, some little more than large sandbanks, others
many hundreds yards long and covered with large trees. During the summer
months the river fills its bed from bank bank, and from January April there
will average depth feet the centre the stream, while many
places may reach maximum feet. the end the wet season the
stream rapidly diminishes width, covering but small portion the river-bed,
and rarely flowing single channel. speaking, the beginning
July the stream has average width 250 yards and depth feet. Later
the season the water sinks still further. impossible give any fixed
estimates the depth and width the Sabi various points, account
the shifting the and the great variations the yearly rainfall.
The river always navigable for light craft far the Rhodesian border, but
would impossible for any heavy craft ascend high during the dry season.
The current the Sabi mid-stream, continually changing with
the varying depths the channels and the fall the flood. But, provided
there were sufficient depth, small steamers could always make headway against it.
There always strong breeze blowing up-stream during the daytime, quite
sufficient for sailing the banks ample supply excellent fuel
for steamers, and, despite the general steepness the banks, there are
good landing-places.”
New Port Cape seems probable that the fine harbour
Saldanha bay will befure long utilized. Application, stated, made
for powers construct docks and build railway connect the port
with the existing Government line. This will miles length, and will pass
:
322
THE MONTHLY RECORD.
through Hopefield and Omreesburg. The chief drawback Saldanha bay has
hitherto been the lack water, and this now proposed bring from the Berg
river, miles distant. not expected that the port will compete with Cape
Town, but hoped that the large anchorage and good shelter available will
attract shipping, especially the case goods intended for up-country. The
harbour completely landlocked, natural breakwater rendering the bay always
smooth. should remembered that this not the Saldanha bay the old
navigators, which was the modern Table bay.
Northern meteorological statistics interest are given
Sir Lugard’s lately issued report Northern Nigeria. the operations
against the Emir Yola the advance upon his capital had deferred until
September, that month the only season when the Benue navigable far
Yola, the extreme eastern limit the British territory. ‘The rise and fall
the Niger has been recorded with more less completeness ever since 1898, and
the figures last given are follows: June the total rise was inches;
inches; and August, record was kept September, but
the end October there had been total fall inches, while the suc-
ceeding month there was further fall inches, and December inch.
Lokoja and Jebba—both the Niger—the dry season the winter, and
during December, January, February, and March, rain fell the latter place,
and none during the first three these months Jebba. year’s rainfall
Lokoja was inches, and Jebba inches. The mean temperature the
two places are 81° and Fahr. respectively. All the stations the territory
are future furnished with proper meteorological instruments.
The Muidir Plateau, Algerian south-east Insalah
consists rugged plateau, one the elevated massifs which separate the oases the
Algerian Sahara from the Tuareg countries tothe south. Few details have hitherto
been known respecting its geographical features, but some additions our know-
ledge have lately been made through the work the French stationed
Insalah. The Muidir was crossed Lieut. Cottenest during his expedition against
the Hoggar Tuareg early last year, but this being military one, passing through
hostile territory, few opportunities can have offered themselves for survey work, while
Lieut. Cottenest’s notes were subsequently lost during the fight with the Tuareg.
short time after this passage, reconnaissance the Muidir was carried
out Colonel Laperrine, accompanied Lieuts. Rousseau and Réquin, the latter
whom has given account the march the
No. appended the Bulletin Afrique for December, 1902.
accompanied map prepared Lieut. Rousseau. According Lieut. Réquin,
the broad physical features this rugged region are most difficult grasp.
the north the plateau bordered complex and broken series ridges, and
the west vertical escarpment nearly constant height, but the interior
forms veritable chaos. The two most striking natural features are, the one
hand, the numerous deep clefts, traversed flowing between perpendicular
walls 600 feet high, and the other, the rocky crests ridges which run
over the surface, and are sometimes broken into strange accumulations rocks,
having all the appearance ruins. The weds, however, open out into green
valleys, which afford good pasturage, the Muidir being more favoured nature
than Tidikelt, for has regular rainfall and abundance wood, addition
its pastures. was formerly inhabited, but seems have been deserted
the French occupation Insalah.
7
7
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7
7
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THE MONTHLY RECORD. 323
AMERICA.
Messrs. Powell, Quinton, and Foster’s Ascent the
ascent made these gentlemen October 28, 1902, was brietly the
last number the Journal, since the issue which Mr. Quinton has sent
cutting from local newspaper giving some additional details. The ascent was
begun from the coast Wallibou, the first part being exceedingly difficult, owing
the formation several new cliffs and ravines. Afterwards, apart from the
extreme narrowness the knife-ridges, the way was easier. arrival the
summit, was found that the old crater was active, discharging volumes steam,
and throwing cones ashes from fissure close under the southern wall. The
ejecta, which were heaped round the inner walls height several hundred
feet, were almost red hot, and were smoking profusely, while jets steam were
issuing from fissure within yards the visitors’ standpoint. Messrs. Powell
and Foster went down the southern side distance about yards,
beyond which the walls were precipitous, and boiling cauldron muddy water
could clearly seen the centre. ‘The best view was, however, obtained from
the western rim. The cloud steam and ashes from the fissure under the southern
wall was blown westward, giving the appearance having come from the new
crater, though there were really signs that this had lately been active. The
saddle between the two craters was intact. attempt cross windward
having failed, owing the steepness the southern rim and the heat the
ashes, the descent was commenced, and proved much harder than the ascent.
For considerable distance down the sides the mountain covered with portions
the rock and coarse gravel thrown out.
Northern Frontier map published the Officina Nacional
Estadistica, Paz, shows the various frontier-lines which
have been the subject diplomatic negotiations. The furthest north the
Ballivian-Cruls line, which the frontier has been definitely fixed with Brazil.
extends from the Madeira falls north-westwards the Yaquirana, the source
claims line running from the Inambari, between the Chandless and Manu, and
along the Amazons watershed the Yaquirana, while the Peruvians claim the
country far south the Beni. This would deprive Bolivia not only the
Colonias, but almost all the province Caupolican, and would add
some 190,000 square miles Peru.
AUSTRALASIA.
Journey across Australia.—Mr. Maurice, whose journey into the
interior Australia from Fowler’s bay the south coast was referred the
Journal for June, 1902 (p. 760), last year carried out more extended expedition,
again company with Mr. Murray (as surveyor), which led across the
whole breadth the continent the north coast. short narrative the
journey appeared the Adelaide Observer November 29, 1902. The party,
which had with fourteen camels, left Fowler’s bay April, 1902, and took about
seven months complete the journey, crossing the tracks Giles, Tietkins, Gosse,
Warburton, and other explorers, whose routes had led mainly east-and-west
direction. Various permanent waters were discovered, and the year was excep-
tionally dry, there can doubt that the supply these places really
perennial. Geological, ethnological, and zoological collections were made.
early stage the journey the Afghan camel-driver deserted, and some time was
spent vain endeavour track him down. From water which
|
324 THE MONTHLY RECORD.
had been visited the former journey, the party struck across for the Everard
range, where sufficient water was with difficulty obtained, though was the
vicinity the range that the first and only rain experienced fell. The country
described very grand and rugged. The neighbourhood the Musgrave range:
was found worse condition than had ever been known before, and the
rabbits which once swarmed, only one two were seen. After crossing with some
difficulty ragged precipitous range beyond the Musgrave, and taking copies
some remarkable aboriginal drawings, the expedition reached Opparinna, where
the spring was found have not diminished much since the previous
year. removing the outer wood marked tree the vicinity, the
tion Lamb” was distinctly made out, though whom and when the name was
inscribed unknown. Some auriferous outcrops were noticed, extending towards
Petermann range, and near Ayers rock (so named Gosse) copies some fine
aboriginal drawings were obtained. Tietkins’ hole, near Mount Olga, photo-
graphs were taken the marked tree, the inscription which was legible
when first cut thirteen years before. water was found little the south
Lake Amadeus, and were traces very ancient camp. softness the
ground making unsafe cross Lake Amadeus where first struck, the party
turned aside its western end. Near Giles’ creek splendid water-hole,
contain million gallons, was found, and named Thomas’ reservoir.
Mounts Lyell, Brown, and Russell, seen but not visited Tietkins, were found
dry and barren. Eva Springs, Warburton’s track, relics that explorer’s
stay were found, and the range near, two beautiful springs were discovered.
Beyond Mount Singleton extraordinary cave was found, and after stretch
the poorest desert country Dr. Davidson’s track was reached. Here number
camels were poisoned eating and was considered advisable
make for civilization Sturt’s creek, whence the rest the journey Wyndham
Cambridge gulf was effected frequented tracks.
Australian Transcontinental official notice the South
Australian Government Gazette calls for tenders for the construction and working
line railway from north south across the Australian continent. the
northern territory the railway has not yet penetrated very far into the desert,
the distance from Port Darwin Pine Creek (the terminus) being not much more
thin 150 miles; but the south the line has almost reached the 27th parallel
south latitude, north-west Lake Eyre, where Oodnadatta has for some years been
the terminus. now proposed connect these two points, and the scheme
carried out the land-grant system. The land granted not
exceed 75,000 acres for each mile selected alternate
blocks side the The grant fee simple, with all gold and
minerals thereon and thereunder. The line, which have gauge feet
inches, will under 1200 miles length.
POLAR REGIONS.
Dr. Arctic scientific the Arctic
regions being Dr. Jean Charcot, with the support the French
Academy Sciences, the Natural History Mureum, and the Ministry Public
Instruction. who last year made voyage Jan Mayen, impressed
with the necessity for the scientific study the regions already known, serve
point departure for further explorations the neighbourhood the pole,
and will take with him assistants, who will make observations the field
geology, oceanography, biology, and other branches science.
three-masted schooner 400 tons being built St. Malo for the purposes the
THE MONTHLY RECORD.
expedition, which will, sail May six months’ cruise. pro-
posed visit Jan Mayen, Spitsbergen, Josef Land, and the north-west part
Novaya Zemlya.
The Danish Expedition West Greenland.—The Danish
which went out 1902 for the purpose researches into the the
native inhabitants Greenland vol. xix. 641), was September last
the Holstenborg colony, the west coast, whence the leader, Mr.
Erichsen, has sent the Standard some account the experiences his party
during the summer months. part the narrative consists description
the free, open-air life which during this time the explorers had shared with the
canoeing, shooting along the mountainous fiord-pierced coasts
West Greenland. Some account is, however, given two attempts ascend
the inland-ice,” which are some geographical interest. The first was made from
the inmost end the Godthaab fiord, into which the Ujaragssuit glacier debouches.
attempt ascend this glacier had been made Nansen during
the following his crossing Greenland; nor was Mr. Erichsen’s party
more successful, the attempt being frustrated two successive days the soft-
ness the clay banks the river which emerges from the glacier, the impassable
nature this stream, and—when eighteen hours had been made over
the mountain-side—by the perpendicular wall which the latter fell towards
the the second day good-sized ruin dating from the period the
Norsemen was discovered and sketched. Subsequently more successful atte npt
reach the ice was made from Sukkertoppen, the route chosen leading thence
the Sermilinguak fiord, into which arm the inland ice makes its exit.
Mr. Erichsen (who took with him one the sledges used Nansen 1888)
was Count Moltke and young Greenland ecclesiastic, Jérgen
and one the Greenlanders who had formed his crew the head
the fiord. the ascent progressed the ice became more and more rough, the
whole surface being furrowed crevasses narrow ridges and pinnacles.
With great difficulty the leader reached the summit over 3000
feet above the sea, whence view was obtained which enabled him correct
existing maps certain particulars, was found that the 50-70 miles ice
between the South Isortok fiord and the Evigheds fiord separated from the true
inland ice the east lower country lakes and rivers that receive the waters
the inland ice. Subsequently, glacier walk from the the
fiord, Mr. Erichsen found that the body ice between that fiord and the
fiord separated from the ice proper two rows
forming virtually two consecutive mountain ranges, this being again not shown
existing maps. the time writing the was about start
northward for Egedesminde (69° N.), the further advance towards
winter quarters Melville bay.
Expeditions expedition sent out East Greenland
during the summer 1901 under the auspices the Danish Greenland Committee,
with the support the Carlsberg fund, which had leader the botanist Kruuse
(accompanied his wife), learn from Mitteilungen (1902,
267), safely returned after spending year that inhospitable region. The
headquarters were fixed Angmagsalik, where biological investigations were carried
out during the winter. This was long and severe, though calm, and the ice re-
mained fast the coast from the middle December the middle June.
After the latter date survey was made, means motor boat, the two
large fiords Augmagsalik and Sermilik. The flora this region was found
consist 110 112 species phanerogams and vascular cryptogams, besides lower
7
7
326 THE MONTHLY RECORD.
forms, and the results the expedition include zoological collections, and bio-
logical and ethnographical studies. expedition the opposite side Green-
land was carried out the summer 1902, under the same auspices, Dr.
Engell, who executed surveys and made studies glacier movement, plaut life,
the neighbourhood the Tasiusak fiord, near Jacobshavn, well
some hitherto unknown districts further south.
Geodetic Work result the four years’ work
1902) Spitsbergen the measurement meridional arc, long, between
the Keilhaus mountain the south and the Little Table island the north.
The Russian party undertook the southern part, from lat. 76° 38’ 79° 4’, and the
Swedes the northern, lat. 80° 49’. Both parties measured base with
Jiiderin’s apparatus, which the bars are nickel steel, the Swedish base being
nearly 10,960 yards long, and the Russian about 6799. Latitudes have been deter-
mined the points where angular measurements were taken, and six others—
twenty-nine points all, about one for every minutes arc, that unusually
exact study the surface form will possible. Twenty-three azimuths have
been taken, which will serve detect local disturbances azimuth, and the
influence the attraction the adjacent lands astronomical observations has
been ascertained. Gravity observations means the pendulum have been
made several points. the work triangulation, the meteorology,
geology, and botany the districts visited have received attention. has been
agreed that the observations shal! published detail, and that the Russian and
Swedish commissions shall work out separately their respective portions the
triangulation series, but that the reduction final results, involving com-
parison the astronomical and geodetic results, the commissions shall co-operate.
map the region covered the triangulation will published the scale
and special maps the triangular points larger scale. conical
projection will used, the tangent plane touching the Earth’s surface 78°
lat. The general map will consist five sheets, which three will com-
piled the Russians. results the expedition will published French
series memoirs, and will ready for printing within the year. sections
included the first part the work will deal with the geodetic and astronomical
results, gravity and tidal observations, while magnetism, meteorology, geology,
botany, etc., will furnish the subjects for the memoirs the latter part.
No. 1902.
} mer,
MATHEMATICAL AND PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
The Figure the paper communicated the Geological
Society its meeting January 21, Prof. Sollas discussed the figure the
Earth from quite new point view, with the remarkable result that obtains
empirical methods figure agreeing with the mathematical conclusions Mr.
(Geographical Journal, February, 1903, 191), pear-like shape.”
the note referred pointed out that, although Mr. Jeans’s general conclusions
would not affected, his description regional distributions was likely
criticized, and accordingly find that Prof. Sollas places the his pear
the middle Africa, while the broad end” covered the Pacific.
points out the almost precise correspondence great terrestrial features with
circular form. The Aleutian curve has its centre N., long. 177° W., that
the East Indies about 15° and 118° E., and round the latter centre are
several concentric curves. The northern part South America, the Alpine-
Himalayan chain, the western shore North America, and portion Australia,
may similarly reduced geometric form. great circle swept through the
MONTHLY RECORD, 327
centres the East Indian and Aleutian arcs runs symmetrically through the
bordering seas Asia far Alaska, borders the inland lakes America,
the Californian centre, extends through the middle the Caribbean sea,
parallel with the coast the Antarctic continent, and returns the East
Indian centre without touching Australia. This course remarkable corre-
spondence with the general trend the great zone Pacific weakness. the
pole this circle the Libyan desert placed towards observer globe,
the African continent appears great dome surrounded seas and separated
from the Pacific irregular belt land. second great circle defined
Lake Baikal, and with its centre morphological centre Asia” Suess,
and passing through the East Indian centre, may regarded the direction-
circle for the Eurasian folding. These two circles intersect angle 39°,
and bisecting this angle mean directive circle found with its pole near the
sources the White Nile north the Equator. The axis terrestrial symmetry
through this pole passes through the middle Africa and the Pacific ocean.
The smallest circle which will Africa has its centre near this pole,
and within the symmetry the fractured African dome observable. Outside
this comes belt seas, and outside that again the Pacific belt continents, the
Antarctic, South America, North America, Asia, and Australia. significant
feature connected with this way looking the question the greatly increased
transition from the piriform the spherical shape.
Star-shaped Maps the Various forms the star-shaped repre-
sentation the globe have been suggested since the idea such representation was
tirst mooted 1865 Dr. Jiiger Vienna. one most commonly employed,
and which was first adopted Berghaus 1879, that which the star has five
branches, which results the separation Australia into two portions contained
within two separate branches. equidistant projection usually employed,
and the outlines Africa and South America are much distorted. the
Géographie Historique Descriptive for 1902 (part. ii.), Lieut. Berthon suggests
form that has not been made use before, the number branches being reduced
four, while the projection used instead the equidistant. The
branches are constructed that corresponding parallels are equal distances
trom the equator both hemispheres, while the distances between the meridians
corresponding parallels are also equal. The outer meridians the several
branches are thus considerably curved outwards, and the obliquity the meridians
with the parallels reduced. shapes and relative positions the continents
are certainly well shown this means, but the enormous exaggeration the size
the equatorial parts the globe disadvantage, South America appearing
very much larger than North America, and Africa than Asia; that doubt-
ful whether the whole the new method great improvement the old.
The slight modification the usual five-branched star employed Dr.
International Geography’ possesses some advantages over both the use eight
branches, alternately wider and narrower, permitting the three great southern land-
masses, well the centres the three great oceans, each coincident with
the star.
The Supply Chloride Sodium Rivers the Sea.—Since the
question the possible calculation the age the Earth consideration
the amount sodium annually supplied rivers the ocean was brought
forward some three years ago Prof. Joly, the subject bas engaged the attention,
the continent, Prof. Dubois, whose latest communication
appears vol. iv. the the Section Sciences the
THE MONTHLY RECORD.
Royal Academy Sciences Prof. Joly’s estimate was based
Sir John Murray’s estimate, made some years ago, the average
river-water. This estimate, which depended analyses the water nineteen
rivers only, was not its author more than tentative, and Prof.
Dubois shows that much more extensive observations are necessary yield trust-
worthy result. bas with much care brought together the results analyses
seventy-five different rivers portions rivers (many them series extending
over considerable time), far concerns the sodium chlorine
contained their water. The figures show very great variation between the
different rivers, and consequently striking deviation the actual values from
Sir John Murray’s average. Generally, the quantity sodium found
much less than the latter’s estimate; and Prof. Dubois shows that still
further diminished when the quantities derived from the pollution the rivers
human agency, and the amount supplied rain, are taken into account. the
case the Meuse, calculates that not more than parts per million parts
water due chemical denudation, out observed total parts,
whereas the average derived from Sir John Murray’s figures Further,
noticed that almost all river-water there isa decided deficit chlorine
compared with the quantity that could combined with the sodium, that,
all the sodium sea-water combined with chlorine, some other supply the
latter than brought down rivers must available. There difliculty
accounting for this supply when consider the amount hydrochloric acid
gas discharged into the atmosphere volcanic agencies, and the fact that three
times much falls the ocean land. Prof. Dubois concludes
showing that, the amount sodium really attributable chemical denuda-
tion appears only quarter that assumed Prof. Joly, period four
hundred million years would necessary account for the existing amount
the ocean this were entirely due the agencies supposed. Such result leads
distrust the applicability existing data the problem, and lends weight
the opinion which other geological facts had led—that the greater part the
chloride sodium the ocean must have been far more rapid
process than that existing chemical denudation.
the Paris Academy Sciences (December 15, 1902) the origin the
surface formation met with most commonly limestone districts, which usually
known the German term the French formation
the vertical clefts separating the separate blocks usualiy ascribed the
action rain the rocks, but Martel holds that important part
also played the mechanical action running water. The vest known examples
Karren occur alpine districts, considerable elevation, but the writer gives
number instances which the formation met with valleys plains
low elevation, sometimes the actual beds rivers (as, the falls the
Sautadet the first cataract the Nile), even the sea (as Killsee
Ireland). where the occur high elevations, Martel holds that
many cases they represent portions old river-valleys which have remained
perched the air, while the rest them has been removed either tectonic
movements subsequent denudations. also finds constant relation exist
between the and the abysses which the surface waters
are engulfed limestone regions, and which have resulted
for sub-aérial circulation the water. invariable relation,
which attention, Martel says, does not seem have been previously called,
is, his opinion, strong argument favour the idea that large number
4
4
OBITUARY. 329
cases the have been originally formed the action water,
although the present day chemical action, the effects which are far more
feeble, may have taken its place.
OBITUARY.
Sir Lintorn Simmons.
the death Field-Marshal Sir John Lintorn Arabin
the little band Fellows who can claim that their connection with our Society
dates back more than balf century, loses one the most distinguished its
members. younger days the duties Sir John Simmons carried him far
from the mother country, and though never any sense explorer, was fond
travelling, and manifested his interest geographical discovery joining the
Society Born 1821, Simmons entered the Royal Engineers 1837,
and for some time served Canada. Subsequently held responsible posts
connection with the early development the railway system this country.
The Crimean war opened new field which gain distinction.
Being Constantinople 1853, leave absence, was employed several
missions connected with the negotiations which preceded the war, and the following
year was appointed her Majesty’s commissioner with the Ottoman army. During
the war saw considerable service various parts the Nearer East, and
1857 was the British representative the commission which laid down the
boundary between Asia Minor and two years after this
acted Warsaw, but 1860 again took work this country,
and the next twenty years filled various important posts, being director
the School Military Engineering Chatham, 1865-68; governor the Royal
1875-80. was also attached the Embassy which attended the
Berlin Congress 1878, and took part the Berlin Conference 1880, which
assembled discuss the Greek frontier question. 1884 was
Governor Malta, but, reaching the age-limit four years later, had retire. Sir
John Simmons received the Knight Commandership the Bath 1869, and
became Knight the Grand Cross that Order nine years later; was made
1887. After his retirement, Sir acted Extraordinary and
Minister Plenipotentiary the Pope and the following year was given
rank Field-Marshal. died February 14, two days his eighty-
second birthday.
John Hall Gladstone, PhD., D.Sc.,
Dr. John Hall Gladstone, who died October, 1902, the age seventy-five
years, was one our older members, having joined the Society 1863, nearly
forty Although best known for his work connection with chemistry,
Dr. Gladstone was man broad and attainments, and particular
was deeply interested all questions related with the improvement educational
methods, being himself member the School Board for London for over twenty
years. efforts our Society improve the status geography
study this country met with his warm approval, and took part the
discussions which tock place the meetings connection with the Society’s
330
CORRESPONDENCE.
Educational Exhibition 1885. Dr. Gladstone, who was educated University
College, London, and Giessen University, was Fullerian Professor Chemistry
the Royal Institution from 1874 1877, President the Physical Society from
1874 1876, and the Chemical Society from 1877 1879, and was the author
various scientific papers, chiefly chemical subjects.
Dr. James Stevenson.
The death occurred January Mr. James Stevenson, Born
1822, Mr. Stevenson passed through Glasgow University, where displayed
mathematical abilities very high order. His sympathies, however, were not
confined that branch scholarship, and later years assisted the University
substantially the promotion various studies. His generous and instructed
interest the progress education was recognized the University short time
ago, when his doctor’s degree was conferred upon him. the geographical world
Mr. Stevenson was best known for his connection with British Central Africa,
where his name will preserved long the Stevenson road endures and bears
that designation. was one the many caught into the current the great
outburst missionary enthusiasm for the work opening the Dark
Continent exploration, which followed the death Dr. Livingstone.
joined the Royal Geographical Society 1877, and was closely associated with the
African Lakes Company, founded year later, which was Chairman the
time his death. Early the eighties, Mr. Stevenson vigorously pressed scheme
for the construction road between Lakes Nyasa and Tanganyika. himself
subscribed some thousands pounds enable the necessary surveys carried
out. The road was never properly laid down, but path was cleared through
considerable stretch difficult country, and route opened which not only will
long preserve Mr. Stevenson’s name our maps, but has not been without impor-
tance the diplomatic negotiations that accompanied the partition the continent.
CORRESPONDENCE.
Captain Benjamin Expedition 1596.
have given, pp. some details, mostly from Portuguese sources, the
voyage and ultimate fate the three Whelp, and
Captain Benjamin Wood’s Expedition, which left England for the Far
the latter part 1596, and respecting which there has been much confusion and
misstatement owing blunder Purchas’s. have there shown that one
the ships was lost somewhere off the south coast Africa; and that the other two
ships, after acts piracy the Malabar coast, encountered, the Malacca
strait, Portuguese fleet, with which they carried running fight for eight
days, the end which time, owing the blowing the gunpowder
board the admiral,” the two English ships retired Old Kedah repair and re-
fresh. Owing their diminished numbers, however, the Englishmen abandoned
the smaller vessel this port, and set sail for home the which shortly
afterwards foundered storm off Martaban.
Although Couto, who supplies with this information, erroneously calls these
ships and records precisely similar fate having befallen the Dutch
ships Leeuw and Leewwin (on one which John Davis was pilot) 1599,
q
CORRESPONDENCE.
could find reason doubt the accuracy his account the ending
expedition. Now, through the kindness Mr. William Foster, the India
Office, able substantiate the general accuracy Couto’s narrative, and
carry the story step further. Mr. Foster has drawn attention passage
the English translation, John Davies, Mandelslo’s (London, 1662),
246-247, which occurs connection with description Mauritius, and reads
follows
the Dutch came thither September they found there French
souldier, who had left his Countrie some three years before, with three English
ships, which were the first those parts that attempted sailing into the Indies
upon the accompt Piracy. these three ships one was cast away neer the
Cape Good hope, and sickness having consumed most the men, they that
remained set fire the second, regard for want men, they were not able
govern it, The third was wrack’d upon the Coasts the Indies, where all the men
were lost, seven only excepted, wit, four English men, two Negroes, and French
who attempted return with some booty, which they disposed into
Cannow, wherein they set Sea, and made shift get Maurice-Island.
had design there rid themselves their Camerades, but being
discovered they cast themselves into the Sea, and were drowned. The four English
men would prosecute their Voyage, but the French souldier chose rather continue
the Isle, then double the Cape, and expose himself the mercy the Sea,
small Vessel. Accordingly, the English there was more news heard.
The French man had been moneths the Island, when the Dutch came thither.
was stark naked, regard that having been burning which
heightened into degree maduess, had torn his cloaths; that having not
had any thing about him ever since his sickness, nor fed any thing but the raw
Tortoyses took, they were not little surpriz’d the sight him, and con-
ceived would easie matter restore him his senses, though behaved
himself well enough otherwise, was very good health.”
Mr. Foster points out, the above story does not occur the original (German)
edition Mandelslo’s Travels (1865), but interpolation Abraham van
Wicquefort, who translated the Olearius-Mandelslo Travels into and pub-
lished his translation 1659. There copy this first French edition the
British Museum Library but the second edition, published 1666, the passage
occurs pp. 523-524 tom. From comparison this with Davies’s version,
find that the latter pretty faithful rendering the French. Now, whence
did Wicquefort obtain the details given Only one source, know,
was available him, viz. the diary the voyage the fleet five Dutch ships
that sailed from the Texel for the East April 1601, under the command
Wolphert Harmanszoon. This diary was first printed 1645, forming part the
collection voyages entitled Begin ende Voortgangh vande Vercenighde Neder-
lantsche Oost-Indische Compagnie.’ this journal the diarist
states that August 20, 1601, the ships were calm 33° There
then strange (and regrettable) breach the diary printed;
for the next entry reads
“On September [1601] the yacht named came back out the
harbour Mauritius bringing with some and Frenchman named
have translated literally possible, and have retained the punctuation
the original.
Owing the gap the diary, have record the dispatch the yacht,
the date which left the fleet.
Coconuts.
332 CORRESPONDENCE.
who some years before had sailed from England with captain com-
ships, with yacht, and, the aforesaid relates, after that
they had captured some ships and junks the coast Melinde, were compelled
(owing the great loss and occurring daily, that the aforesaid
ships were more than one, for near the Cape Bonne they lost
their yacht, and owing the loss men they burnt their vice-admiral, account
the continuance the sickness) strand the aforesaid ship (which was the
third) near Malaca the island Pulo where the aforesaid ship
remained, and all the men died except seven, wit, four Englishmen, and this
Frenchman, with two blacks; which persons bestowed themselves Indian
junk with some booty, order cross over England therewith, but getting
sea, the two blacks, says, plotted some treachery, but their attempt failed,
which out desperation they leapt overboard, drowning themselves,
that the Englishmen and this Frenchman arrived the aforesaid junk this
roadstead where where they lay days, which time, appears,
they had disagreement, because the Frenchman wished that they should remain
there, hoping for the mercy God, that time they might make their junk
stronger and larger, but the Englishmen would not stay longer there; the four
them put sea the aforesaid junk order get that this
poor man bad remained alone the island for period months,
which time had been eight months without fire, going about all that time
naked, sustaining himself with and raw flesh, yet was
corpulent and robust any the fleet, both ranning and otherwise, but
was very muddle-headed when was asked much, which not wondered at,
when one thinks, what manifold fancies such man long time might have,
also the heat the sun, which gone about always naked, because,
says, severe illness that had had, bad torn all the clothes from his
body, may the Almighty God restore him his former health, and preserve all
from such acalamity Amen.”
Whether the diarist’s pious aspiration for the restoration mental vigour the
unfortunate Frenchman was fulfilled, not know, further mention made
him. But his misfortune us, for vitiates some extent the
accuracy his story. However, taking stands, let see how compares
with Couto’s account; for that refers expedition there cannot the
least doubt.
According the Frenchman the fleet consisted two ships and yacht,
and had sailed from England years This can apply only
Captain fleet, consisting the Bear (of 180, 200, the
Whelp (of 140 and the Benjamin (probably the yacht, tonnage
which sailed, have said, 1596.
The yacht, the said, was lost off the Cape Good Hope.** This
misprint for probably.
Portuguese the palm cabbage.”
tortoise.
Whom Wicquefort, with apparent authority, designates
Wicquefort, will noticed, has quite unwarrantably and erroneously inserted
“three.” adds, that these were “the first [English ships] those parts that
attempted sailing into the Indies upon the accompt Piracy,” which also erroneous,
the Raymond-Lancaster expedition had preceded this one more than years.
The Voyage Robert Dudley’ (Hakluyt Preface, xxxi., regarding
these varying estimates.
*
f
q
q
CORRESPON DENCE, 333
accounts for the fact that when first hear the from Portuguese sources
only two are mentioned.
far, all plain sailing; but now the two accounts vary detail. The
Frenchman silent regards the calling the two ships for
water, but, the other hand, informs that they “captured some ships and
junks the coast Melinde,” fact not mentioned the Portuguese writers.
possible, however, that the reference really the capture Portuguese
vessels off the Malabar coast, recorded the Goa Chamber and Couto, but not
the Frenchman. discrepancies may fairly, think, charged the
latter’s
Far more unaccountable, however, the utter silence the Frenchman
regard the engagement with the Portuguese feet the Strait Malacca,
which Couto gives such graphic account. can only once more attribute this
silence mental aberration.
The loss men the English ships Couto attributes entirely the effect
the Portuguese artillery, but according the Frenchman (and with much greater
likelihood), was due sickness.*
According the Frenchman, again, the account their diminished
numbers, burnt their vice-admiral but where, does not say. Couto tells
that the Englishmen that port [Kedah] the ship lesser
may therefore take these two statements agreeing.
Couto also states that after the Englishmen had abandoned their smaller ship,
the other, which was the admiral, they embarked what they had, and went
off greit haste, much so, that they left shore several wounded men, because
the natives wished attack them for various wrongs that they had done them,
and shaped their course for Bengalla; and the latitude the coast
Pegu they were lost that macareo.” the other hand, the Frenchman’s
version that the English were compelled, owing their loss men, strand
the remaining ship, the admiral,” Pulo Batung,§ which island not near
Malacca,” the diarist but the west coast the Malay
peninsula, not far from Kedah. Now, probable that statement, that
the admiral went down off the coast Pegu, based mere surmise,
and the account may quite correct; there is, any rate, nothing
justify our rejecting it.
The rest the story are obliged take find it, having
other testimony substantiate contradict it. true that when
rescued the had been “alone the island for period
months,” and his companions must have arrived there early the year 1600,
and must therefore have set out from Pulo towards the end 1599. Now,
according Couto, the fight between the English ships and the Portuguese fleet
took place January, 1598; that the survivors this unfortunate expedition
Compare the terrible mortality that took place board the Raymond-Lancaster
ships.
The Whelp, probably.
The doubtless.
While the English ships were Kedah, Couto states, the Portuguese captain
Malacca sent couple look for them, which went far Pulo Butung,
but did not find them.
The version has that the third ship was wrack’d upon the
Coasts the Indies where all the men were lost seven only excepted.”
Compare what said above attributing the same ending two
Dutch ships.
No. 1903.]
i
|
334 MEETINGS THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, SESSION 1902-1903.
must have spent nearly two years Kedah and Butung. Although this
not beyond the bounds possibility, may well that the Frenchman’s memory
had played him false, and that his sojourn the island had been longer than
stated. That the junk with the four Englishmen and the booty was lost sea,
cast away some wild coast Africa, otherwise should have
some record their foolhardy voyage.
Owing the above-mentioned lacuna the Dutch diary, and the general
vagueness the bearings recorded, seems impossible identify the harbour
Mauritius where the unfortunate Frenchman was rescued from living death
and the original manuscript the diary longer exists,* the omission from the
printed edition 1645 cannot now supplied.
20, Beech House Road, Croydon,
January 24, 1903.
MEETINGS THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY,
SESSION
Ordinary Meeting, January 26, 1903.—Colonel
Vice-President, the Chair.
Bailey, East Yorks Regt.; William Singer
Barclay Sidney Barton; Harlan George McLean Buckley
Cuthbert John Burgoyne; George Bush, Gillmore Carter
Bertram Chaplin Captain James Cochrane, Leinster Regt. David
Delbanco; William Francis Farrer; Colonel George Malcolm For; William
Fry; James William Willie Henry Colonel Robert Edmund
Golightly Robert Joseph Hardie; Captain Ralph Henvey, Majer
Hills, C.M.G.; Charles Kennedy Major William Campbell
James Compton Lieut. Richard John Noal, R.N.R.; Captain
Charles William Orr, Captain Owen, Oxford Light Infantry
Daniel Thomas Phillips; Joseph Purvis; Ernest John James Christie
Reid; Robert Lyons Scott; Rev. Henry John Shirley; William Hillman
Thomas Spinks Storie.
The Paper read was
Seventh Ordinary Meeting, February 1903.—Sir
K.C.B., President, the Chair.
William Whitehorn John Foster Lionel Cohen
Robert Dr. Gonzales; John Harley Hon.
Lord Captain Thomas Nairne Howard, King’s
Lieut. Philip Howell, Queen’s Own Corps Guides; Lieut. Richard
hagen, King’s African Rifles; Frederick Major Oswald Henry Pedley,
Edward Valpy, B.A.; Sir Henry Wardlaw,
The Paper read was
Journaux des Navigateurs pp. 203-204.
\
7
;
GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE
THE MONTH.
Additions the Library.
EDWARD HEAWOOD, M.A.,
The following abbreviations nouns and the adjectives derived from them are
employed indicate the source articles from other publications.
names are each case written full
Academy, Academie, Akademie.
Abhandlungen.
Ann. Annals, Annales, Annalen.
Bulletin, Bollettino, Boletim.
Com. Commerce.
Rd. Comptes Rendus.
Erdkunde.
(+, Geography, Geographie,
Ges. Gesellschaft.
Institute, Institution.
Izvestiya.
Journal.
Mitteilungen.
Geographical
Mag. Magazine.
Mem. Memoirs, Mémoires.
Met. Meteorological.
Proceedings.
Royal.
Rev. Review, Revue.
Sitzb. Sitzungsbericht.
Transactions.
Verein.
Verh. Verhandlungen.
Wissenschaft, and compounds.
Zeitschrift.
Zap. Zapiski.
account the ambiguity the words octavo, quarto, the size books
the list below denoted the length and breadth the cover inches the nearest
half-inch. The size the Journal 6}.
selection the works this list will noticed elsewhere the Journal.”
EUROPE.
Austria—Geodesy.
Publicationen fiir die Internationale
Erdmessung.
Die
ischen Arbeiten des und Wien. XVIII.
Band. Trigonometrische Arbeiten.
der Monarchie.
Institute. Wien, 1902.
Balkan Peninsula— Wallachia.
Die Netz-Ausgleichungen Ostlichen
Herausgegeben vom und Militiir-Geographischen
Size 9}, pp. and
Map.
Martonne.
Paris: Armand Colin. 1902.
tions. fr.
Denmark—Jutland.
Denmark— Meteorology.
Size 6}, pp. xv. and 388.
Presented the Author.
Globus (1903): 41-43.
auf der Karte von Jiitland.
Map and
reviewed.
Hansen.
Von Prof.
Annuaire pour 1900. par l'Institut météorologique
Danois.
(pp.
Europe—Area and Population.
contrées terre.
1902.
des Preussischen Institutes.
partic (pp. 98); ditto, pour 1901.
Size
Levasseur and Bodio.
Premitre Partie (Europe).
Bulletin UInstitut international
Size pp. viii. and 110.
Extrait
Tome xii. Livraison.
Borsch and Kriiger.
N.F. No. 10.
Lotabweichungen. Heftii. Linien siidlich der
Grad Breite von Borch und Kriiger. Berlin: Stankie-
wicz, 1902.
France.
France—Auvergne.
Lille (1902): 146-163, 204-214, 269-289.
Nos Geographie militaire.
G., B.S.G. Paris 370-374.
Maps.
With Mups.
Bruyant.
Par Prof. Bruyant.
logie.
( )
7
336 GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE THE MONTH.
B.S.G. Paris (1902): 197-217, 289-308, 375-391. Paquier.
sur formation relief dans Diois les Baronnies orientales.
Paquier.
France—Early Cartography. Hist. Descriptive (1902): 176-183. Marcel.
Une carte Picardie inconnue Géographe Jean Jolivet. Par Marcel.
France—Landes. Rd. 185 1134-1135. Fabre.
Sur courant littoral des Landes. Note Fabre.
France—Touraine. B.G. Hist. Descriptive (1902): 270-275. Chauvigne.
comparative des différents Touraine avant 1789. Par Aug.
Chauvigné. With Map.
France—West Coast. Hist. Descriptive (1902): 149-154. Duffart.
Nouvelle preuve ouvertes sur littoral gascon pendant
période quaternaire. Var Charles Duffart. With Map.
Germany—Rivers. Ges. Erdk. Berlin (1902): 880-882. Schjerning
Die norddeutschen Von Dr.
Statistics collected from the official works the rivers.
Silesia. (1902): 553-570.
Frech.
Ueber den Bau der Schlesischen Eine tektonische Skizze. Von Prof. Dr.
Fritz Frech. With Map and
Gaertringen and Wilski.
Thera. Untersuchungen, Vermessungen und Ausgrabungen den Jahren 1895-
1902. von Hiller von Gaertringen. Vierter Band.
Klimatologische Beobachtungen aus Thera. Bearbeitet von Wilski. Teil
Die Durchsichtigkeit der Luft dem Meere nach Beobachtungen
der Fernsicht von der Insel Thera. Berlin: Reimer, 1902. Size 10, pp. 54.
Maps Diagrams. Price 8s.
ASIA.
Afghanistan. Noyce.
England, India, and Afghanistan. Essay upon the relations, past and future,
between Afghanistan and the British Empire India. The Bas Prize
Essay, 1902. Frank Noyce. London: Clay Sons, 1902. Size
skilful summary the leading facts the history British relations with
from impartial standpoint, with forecast the future the country.
Armenia. Rohrbach.
Vom Kaukasus zum Mittelmeer. und Studienreise durch
Armenien yon Paul Rohrbach. Leipzig und Berlin: Teubner, 1903.
Size pp. viii. and 224. Presented the Publisher.
Asia. G., Paris 357-362. Lapparent
China.
China. Maritime Customs. Statistical Series: Nos. and Re-
Trade and Trade Reports for the year 1901. Part ii. Reports and
Statistics for port, with report Foreign Trade China. 1902
Size 8}, pp. xvi. and 804. Diagrams. $5.
China, etc.—Botany.
Enumeration all the known from China Proper, Formosa, Hainan,
Corea, the Luchu Archipelago, and the Island Hongkong, together with their
This volume includes the orders from those from
having been dealt with vol. xxiii. (1886-1888). The
publication being continued vol. xxxvi.
China—Shantung. Fischer
Reise-Eindriicke aus Schantung. Vortrag von Dr. Fischer. (Abteilung Berlin-
Charlottenburg der Deutschen Verhandlungen 1902/03.
Band vii. Heft 1.) Berlin: Dietrich Reimer (Ernst Vohsen), 1902. Size
pp. 24. Presented the Publisher.
Forbes and Hemsley.
GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE THE MONTH. 337
Chinese Empire—Tibet. Launay.
Miss. Catholiques (1902): 573-576, 587-588, 597-599, 610-612.
Notes sur Thibet avant Par Adrien Launay.
With Illustrations.
Cyprus. Oberhummer.
Die Insel Cypern. Eine auf Historischer Grundlage yon Eugen
Preisschrift. Theil. Quellenkunde und Natur-
heschreibung. Ackerman, 1903. Size pp. xvi. and 488.
Maps. Price
Dutch East Indies. Weber.
Siboga-Expeditie. Uitkomsten zoologisch, botanisch, oceanographisch
Siboga onder commando van Luitenant uitgegeven door
pp. (vol. i.) 142; (ii.) 32; 160 and 16; (iv.) 32; (v.) 46; 120; 52;
(viii.) 54; (ix.) and
are the first and second monographs the whole (sixty-five all), and give
description the expedition and the apparatus used, the others dealing with
zoological
Persia. Scottish Mag. (1902): 617-626. Sykes.
The Geography Southern Persia affecting its History. Major Moles-
worth With Map and
quelques semaines dans les Toundras Var Jules Kiss.
(From Féldrajzi Kézle ményele 29 (1901): 157-168.)
Asia. Rohrbach.
Die Bedeutung Von Dr. Paul Rohrbach. (Ange-
wandte Geographie. Hefte zur Verbreitung geographischer Kenntnisse
Beziehung zum Kultur- und Wirtschaftsleben, Serie, Heft.) Halle
Buch-handlung, 1902, Size 6}, pp.
AFRICA.
Abyssinia and Sudan.
between the United Kingdom and Ethiopia, and between the United
Kingdom, Italy, and Ethiopia, relative the Frontiers between the Soudan,
and Eritrea. Signed Adis Ababa, May 15, 1902.
delivered Adis Ababa, October 28, Series, No. 16, 1902.)
Eyre Spottiswoode. Size 64, Map. Price 64d.
See note and map the February Journal (p. 186).
Algeria. Gsell.
Enquéte Administrative sur les Travaux Anciens Algérie,
publiée par les Stéphane Gsell. d’Archéologie
Fascicule vii.) Paris: Leroux, 1902. Size 63, pp. and
Diagrams. Price 48. 6d.
Congo. Grenfell.
The Upper Congo Waterway. the Rev. George Grenfell. Notes
accompany the Author’s Map the River Congo. the
Congo State. Bourne.
Fox Bourne. With Prefatory Note the Right Hon. Sir Charles Dilke.
London: King Son, 1903. Size 5}, pp. xvi. and Price
108. 6d. net. Presented the Publisher.
Congo State—Katanga. (1902): 589-594.
région Katanga. With Map.
Spanish Guinea. Madrid (1902): Escalera.
Los territorios del Muni. Sus condiciones colonizacion. Por Manuel
Escalera.
|
338 GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE THE MONTH.
Nuestras colonias Guinea. técnicas, sociales politicas. Por
Federico Montaldo. With Diagram.
Spanish Guinea. Madrid (1902) 7-16. Sobral.
Guinea Por Sr. Gutiérrez Sobral.
Guinea Por Capitan Estado Mayor Don
Emilio Borrajo
NORTH AMERICA.
Canada—British Columbia. Herring.
Among the People British Columbia. Red, White, Yellow, and Brown.
Frances Herring. London: Fisher Unwin, 1903. Size pp. xvi. and
300. Illustrations. 6s. net. Presented the Publishers.
Mexico. B.S.G. Estad. Rep. Mexicana (1902): 51-131. Pefiafiel.
General Estadistica, cargo del Sr. Dr. Antonio
Mexico—Popocatepetl. Estad. Mexicana (1902): 135-142. Ochoa.
Descripcion cientifica del Volean por General Gaspar Sanchez
Ochoa.
North America—Historical. Fiske.
New France and New Zealand. John Fiske. London: Macmillan
1902. pp. xxv. and 378. Mups. 8s. 6d. Presented the
Publishers.
United States. Leverett.
Department the Interior. Monographs the United States Geological Survey.
Vol. xli. Glacial Formations and Drainage Features the Erie and Ohio
Basins. Frank Leverett. Washington, 1902. Size pp. 802. Maps
and Presented the U.S. Geological
United States—California. Davy.
Stock Ranges North-Western California: Notes the Grasses and Forage
Plants and Range Conditions. Joseph Burtt Davy. (U.S. Department
Agriculture. Bureau Plant Washington, 1902.
United Erskine.
Coal Industry the Consular District Chicago. Foreign Office,
United States—Colorado. J.G. 357-370. Lee.
Canyons Colorado. Willis Lee. With and
Illustrations.
United States—Iron. Erskine.
Iron Ore Industry the United States. Foreign Office, Miscellaneous, No. 583,
United 403-407. Jefferson.
United States—Rhode Island. (1902): 343-352. Brown.
Gaspee Point. Type Cuspate Foreland. Robert Brown. With Map,
Diagram, and
CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA.
Argentine Republic. Démog. Argentin (1902): pp. 76. Carrasco.
Dictionnaire argentin. Por Carrasco.
Argentine Republic. Plaza.
Politica Internacional Argentina. Los arreglos Argentino—Chilenos.
GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE THE MONTH. 339
Por Londres: Imp. William Clowes Hijos, 1902. Size 54,
pp. 64.
Written before the recent frontier award was made.
Argentine Republic—Historical. Outes.
Noticia (1527-1902). Buenos Aires, 1902: Size 104 6},
pp. Maps and Illustrations. Presented the Author.
Bolivia.
Anexos Memoria del Ministro Relaciones Exteriores Culto presentada
Congreso Ordinario 1901. Paz, 1902. Size 11} 7}, pp. 300.
reprint documents referring the foreign relations Bolivia.
Hann.
Zur Meteorolovie des Aquators. Nach den Beobachtungen Museum Goeldi
Paré. Von Hann. (Aus den Sitzungsberichten der Kaiserl. Akademie der
Wissenschaften Wien. Mathem.-naturw. Classe. Bd. Abth. Mai,
1902.) Wien, 1902. Size 64, pp. 70. Presented the Author.
Guiana. B.G. Hist. 253-260. Froidevaux.
Jamaica. Oliver.
Jamaica. Report for 1901-2. Colonial Reports—Annual. No. 375. 1902. Size
Juan Fernandez. Rundschau (1902): 122-128.
Juan Fernandez, die Von Andresen. With
Leeward Islands.
Leeward Islands. Report for 1901-1902. Colonial Reports, Annual. No. 374,
See note Monthly Record for February (p. 189).
Martinique. 135 (1902): 771-773. Lacroix.
Sur actuel volean dela Montagne Martinique. Extrait d’une
Lettre Lacroix.
Peru. B.S.G. Lima (1902): 53-73. Hassel.
Importancia région del proyecto ferrocarril entre Piura
pongo Manseriche. del von Hassel. With Map.
Venezuela—Caura River. Andre.
The Caura. Narrative Journey the Caura River. André.
Trinidad, 1902. Size 104 pp. 80. Map and Portfolio Plates.
the Author.
The journey was described the Journal for September, 1902 (p. 283).
West Indies—Agriculture.
Imperial Department Agriculture for the West Indies. Series,
Each deals with special subject connected with West Indian agri-
culture, including that the results cane cultivation the experimental stations
and elsewhere.
West Eruptions. Indian (1902): 271-293.
Eruptions the West
AUSTRALASIA AND PACIFIC ISLANDS.
Australia.
Australian School Series. Century Progress, 1788-1888. The Geo-
graphical Development Australia. Ernest Favenc. Sydney and Brisbane:
the Author.
the history Australian exploration.
Australia—Ethnography. Heft (1902): pp. 14. Virchow.
ethnographische und Anthropologische Tafeln, ausgefiihrt nach
Anweisungen und des Prof. Dr. Rudolph Virchow.
GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE THE MONTH.
Hawaii. American Sci. 431-439. Emerson.
Some Characteristics Kau. Emerson.
New Guinea. Globus (1902): 379-383. Foy.
Ethnographische Bezichungen zwischen British- and Von
Dr. Foy. With Illustrations.
New Guinea—Dutch. Globus (1903): 11-14. Zondervan.
Die Erweiterung Kenntnisse von Neu-Guinea. Von Henri
Zondervan.
der Regenmessungen und Erdbeben-Beobachtungen Deutch-Neu-
Guinea den Jahren 1900 and 1901.
New Zealand—Survey Report. Marchant.
Report the Department Lands and Survey, New Zealand, for the year 1901-
Marchant, Wellington, 1902. Pp. xxviii. and 166, Maps
Pacific. National Mag. (1902) 333-342. McGee.
Problems the Great Ocean World Growth. Dr.
Pacific—Date Line. Monthly Weather Rev. (1902): 363. Page.
The Date Line the Pacific Ocean. James Page.
Samoa. Kramer.
Die Samoa-Inseln. Entwurf einer Monographie mit besonderer Beriicksichtigung
Deutsch-Samoas. Von Augustin Kramer. Herausgegeben mit
der Kolonialabteilung des Amts. Erster Stamm-
und Ueberlieferungen. Stuttgart: Verlagsbuch-
handlung (E. Size 124 pp. and Illustrations.
This volume deals almost entirely with the people Samoa.
South Australia—Lake Eyre. Library Record Australasia 75-77. Wright.
The Value Newspapers—Naming Lake Eyre. Hugh Wright.
REGIONS.
Antarctic. Wilson.
Antarctica. Dr. Wilson. (Cheltenham Natural Science Socicty, Session
1901-1902.) (Reprinted from the October and
Antarctic—Botany. Wille.
Mittheilungen iiber einige von auf
Festlande Pflanzen. Herausgegeben Dr. Wille. (Separataftryk
999
Arctic. Abruzzi.
Osservazioni Scientifiche eseguite durante Spedizione Polare Luigi
Amedeo Savoia, Duca degli Abruzzi, 1899-1900. Milan: Ulrico Hoepli,
Size pp. 724. Presented the Publishers.
Arctic. G.Z. 305-322, 380-390, 570-590, 626-647. Lindeman.
Die neueren Reisen zur Erforschung der Nordpolarregion. Von Dr. Moritz Linde-
Also copy, presented the Author.
Charcot.
Une excursion Par Charcot. Illustrations.
MATHEMATICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Cartography—Projection. B.G. 282-284. Berthon.
Une représentation globe terrestre sur une projection étoilée quatre branches.
Par lieutenant Berthon. With Map.
GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE THE MONTH.
Nautical Almanac.
Appendix Nautical Almanac, 1903. Corrections the Apparent Places
Nautical Almanac Stars visible Greenwich, deduced from the Paris Conference
(1896) Constants obtain Apparent Places corresponding the Struve-
Peters Constants. [Not dated.] Size pp. 22.
Navigation. American G.S. (1902): 295-297. Littlehales.
The Essential Needs Modern Navigation. Littlehales.
Sextants. Nautical Mag. 719-727. Ellenborough.
New Method correcting Sextants when Sea. Lord
Surveying. Rd. 135 728-730.
Sur résolution nomographique triangle position pour une latitude donnée.
Note Maurice d’Ocagne.
Surveying. Berthaut.
1831. Etude Historique par Colonel Berthaut. Velumes.
Size pp. (vol. 1.) xvi. and 468; (vol. ii.) and Maps and
tions. Price 30s.
Colonel Laussedat.
PHYSICAL AND BIOLOGICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Sur role des tourbillons dans Note Jean Brunhes.
Geological History. K.A.W. Amsterdam, Sec. Sci. 388-399. Dubois.
the Supply Sodium and Chlorine the Rivers the Sea. Prof. Eug.
Dubois.
Noticed the Monthly Record
Geomorphology. Rd. 135 (102): Martel.
Sur des lapiaz leur relation les abimes souter-
Glaciers. Hist. Descriptive (1902): 285-327. Rabot.
chronologie des variations glaciaires. Par Ch. Rabot.
Gravity. Rd. (1902) 956-959. Collet.
pesanteur long paralléle moyen. Note Collet.
Ice-action. American Sci. 399-405. Hobbs.
Instance the Action the Ice-sheet upon Slender Projecting Rock Masses.
The fact that the author (without discussion) 70° normal tempera-
ture the air houses may incline some doubt the correctness his second
that the most suitable relative humidity per cent.
Oceanography—Currents. Monthly Weather Rev. (1902): 397-401. Page.
Ocean Currents. James
Phyto-Geography— Wind-effects.
Ges. Ziirich (1901-1902):
Die Abbildung der vorherrschenden Winde durch die Pflanzenwelt. Von Prof. Dr.
With Maps.
Die Aufgabe geographischer Forschung Fliissen. Von Prof. Dr. Willi Ule.
With Diagrams.
Terrestrial Physics. Digby.
Natural Law Terrestrial Phenomena. Study the Causation Earthquakes,
Voleanic Eruptions, Wind-storms, Temperature, Rainfall, with Record Evidence.
342 GEOGRAPHICAL LITERATURE THE
and 370. Diagrams. Presented the Author.
Written support recent theories the moon’s preponderating influence
meteorological and earthquake phenomena.
Tides. (1902) 91-96. Wright
Harmonic Tidal Constants for certain Australian and Chinese Ports. Thomas
Wright.
ANTHROPOGEOGRAPHY AND HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Historical—Columbus. Rosa.
Solution tous les relatifs Christophe Colomb et,
celui des origines des prétendus inspirateurs Découverte Nouveau
Monde, par Gonzalez Rosa. (Mémoire extrait Compte rendu
Congrés international des tenu Septembre 1900.) Paris:
Leroux, 1902. Size pp. Presented the Author.
Historical—Columbus and Toscanelli.
The Letter and Chart Toscanelli the Route the Indies way the
West, sent 1474 the Portuguese Fernam Martins, and later Christopher
Columbus. Critical Study the and value these documents
and the sources the cosmographical ideas Columbus, followed the various
texts the letter, with translations, annotations, several facsimiles, and also
map. Henry Vignaud. London: Sands Co., 1902. Size 5}, pp. xx.
und Price 10s. 6d.
The French edition was reviewed the Journal for June, 1902 (p. the
present version several new chapters have added, and further arguments adduced.
BIOGRAPHY.
Bienville. B.G. Hist. Descriptive 184-186. Musset.
J.-B. Moyne Bienville. Par Musset.
The subject this notice was younger brother tle better-known Lemoyne
and, like the latter, took important part the French settlement
Louisiana.
Carcie. Hist. Descriptive (1902): 155-158. Pawlowski.
Garcie, dit Ferrande, son grand routier. Notice additionnelle. Par
Pawlowski.
Gives account the Rouen edition 1525 (cf. Journal, vol. xviii.
Gioia. Porena.
Prof. Filippo Porena. Flavio Gioia, inventore della Bussola (Dalla
Nuova Antologia—1° novembre 1902.) Roma, 1902. Size 6}, pp.
sented the Author.
GENERAL.
Agriculture. Plessis Grenédan.
Geographie Agricole France Monde. Par Plessis Grenédan.
Paris: Masson Cie., 1903. Size 5}, pp. xx. and 424. Maps and Diagrams.
Price
Bibliography. Cole.
Compiling Bibliography, Practical hints with illustrative examples concerning
the collection, and arrangement bibliographical materials.
George Watson (ole. New York: The Library Journal, 1902. Size 7}.
pp. 20. Presented the Author.
Instructions Collectors.
Handbook Instructions for Collectors, issued the British Museum (Natural
History). London, 1902. size pp. 138. Presented the
Trustees the British Museum.
Irrigation. J.G. 407-419. Hollister.
Irrigation Methods. George Hollister. With
Year-Book. Parker.
The Daily Mail for 1903. Third Year issue. Edited Percy
Price Presented the
NEW MAPS.
REEVES, Map Curator, R.G.8.
EUROPE.
England and Wales. Ordnance Survey.
SuRVEY ENGLAND AND WALES :—Revised sheets published the
Director-General the Ordnance Survey, Southampton, from January 31,
Hill-shaded map, printed colours, sheets: 7,8. 1s. 6d. each.
inch
With hills brown black 78, 80, (81 and 82), 118, 155, 136 (engraved).
each.
Maps
25-inch—County Maps
10; 10, 11, 12, 18, 14, 15, 16; 10, 14; 2,3;
12; LX. (2, and 7), 12; XI. 14; XVII. 10;
7,8; XXVI.5; 13, 16; 4,7; XXXIV.5; XXXVI.
11; 2,10; 12; LXXIV. Leicestershire, LV. 12;
15, 16; XXXVII. 10, 12, 13, 14; 12, 14, 15, 16;
11, 12, 14,15; XLIV. 1,3; XLV. XLVIII. 12, 14; XLIX.
Radnorshire, 15; 12, 14; Shropshire, XLVII. 12,
15, 16; 12; LIV. 12, 15, 16; LY. 18, 15; 11;
XC. 10; XCIV. Staffordshire, XXXV. 15, 16; XLIX.1, 13;
11; LXX. 11. Worcestershire and Do. (Det. and 7), LIV.
14; LXII.7,8; LXIV.4. Yorkshire, XXIV. 7,11; 16;
CCXC.1; CCXCV.12. 3s. each.
Stanford, London Agent.)
England and Wales.
Reduced Ordnance Survey England and Wales. Scale 126,720 stat.
miles inch. \berystwyth; 21, Pembroke; 22, Carmarthen.
Edinburgh: John Bartholomew Co. 2s. the
Publishers.
With the publication three sheets, half-
inch mile reduced Ordnance Survey Maps England and Wales complete.
The maps have already obtained well-deserved popularity, and their merits are fully
appreciated tourists and cyclists, the manner which the relief shown
contours and tinting rendering them specially useful the latter, who can see
glance the character the country his road pass over. The sheets are now
brought together, and will constitute the principal part the new Survey Atlas
England and Wales about issued Messrs. Bartholomew, and which was
specially noticed the number the Geographical Journal.
English History. Reich.
New Atlas English History. Dr. Emil Reich. London:
This atlas noticed 314.
( 343 )
|
NEW MAPS.
Europe.
Reger.
Regenkarte von Europa.
Nach neueren zusammenge-
stelt von Joseph Reger. 12,000,000 189-4 stat. miles inch.
Petermanns Geographische Mitteilungen, 1903. Gotha: Justus
Perthes. Presented the Publisher.
the letterpress accompanying this map the author account its compila-
tion, and mentions the authorities upon which based. For many countries the data
very scanty, but others reliable the rainfall have been
made during recent years, and much valuable information accumulated, the results
which been published either the respective governments, societies,
which appeared 1900. The map was compiled tue instigation Prof.
Dr. Erk, the University Munich.
Germany.
Hellmann.
Regenkarte der Province Westfalen sowie Waldeck, Lippe-
Detmold und dem Kreis Rinteln. Mit erlauterndem Text and Tabellen.
amtlichen Auftrage bearbeitet von Prof. Hellmann. Scale 1,000,000
miles Berlin: Dietrich Reimer (Ernst Vohsen), 1903.
This little rainfall map one series different parts the German Empire
which now course preparation the author. With the above seven are now
published, and others are fullow shortly. map shows the mean annual rainfall
seven different tints blue, ranging from 500 millimetres over 1200 millimetres,
and twenty-nine pages tabular matter and text, giving very com-
plete particulars concerning the rainfall different stations intervals time,
the monthly means, the change rainfall year year, similar subjects.
ASIA.
Asia Minor. Diest.
Karte des nordwestlichen Nach eigenen
Material auf Heinrich Kiepert’s neu bearbeitet von
Berlin: Alfred Schall,
Upon the late Dr. Kiepert’s well-known map Western Asia Minor basis,
Major Diest has shown the results his own surveys, combined with recent
information. The present sheet includes the Dardanelles, the Sea Marmora, Con-
stantinople, the Bosporus, and the country thesouth. contains the title, index,
plan, and list abbreviations and symbols employed, well important notes
the nomenclature. The map will consist altogether four sheets. ‘The relief the
shown hill-shading—in places somewhat too light effective—and
the principal valleys and plains are tinted green. water shown blue.
Asiatic Russia. Imperial Topographical Institute, St. Petersburg.
sheets. [In Russian St. Petersburg: Imperial Topographical In-
stitute, Revised and corrected November, Presented Colonel
The present edition this map dated 1894, but note manuscript appears
the title-sheet, stating that has been corrected last November. Although this
may true regards certain districts, evident that the map requires further
revision. ‘lhe new survey the Yenesei has not beep taken advantage of, and there
are other matters that need However, comparison with the first edition,
which appeared 1884, shows that great correction has taken place since
that date.
AFRICA.
Africa. Division, War Office.
Africa. Scale 250,000 stat. miles Sheets: (Provisional)
45-H, Talgwarab; (Provisional) 45-L, Adarama; (Provisional) 46-A, Suakin
(Provisional) 46-E, 46-F, Tokar; (Provisional) 55-B, Khar-
toum. Intelligence Division, War Office; Stanford, 1902. Price 1s. 6d.
sheet. Presented the Director-General Mobilization and Military In-
telligence.
sheets include the district Berber and Suakin, and the neighbour-
hood Khartum. They form part the important large map Africa now being
NEW MAPS. 345
prepared the Intelligence Division the War Office. Much fresh information
given from the surveys various officers and others serving the Sudan, and
upon each sheet there appears note stating the sources from which this has been
derived.
Nigeria. Woodroffe.
Map Southern Nigeria (Provisional). Compiled under the direction Captain
London: Edward Stanford, 1902. Price 1s.
The principal geographical results the recent Aro expedition are shown upon
this map, well other up-to-date information obtained from various sources, but
many the sites villages, rivers, and native paths can only considered
approximate, owing the fact they have been laid down hurried journeys
through very country. The printed blue and black, and extends
from Lagos the west the river Kamerun the east, from the sea lat.
stated provisional issue only, and doubtless another and more
complete edition will published when fresh information available.
South Africa.
‘The Railway Map South Africa. stat. miles inch.
Supplement South Africa, December 1902. London: South Africa,
Shows railways open, under construction, and proposed between Cape Colony and
the south the Tanganyika. There also table giving the distance miles
between the stations the different lines, and the the stations feet
above sea-level. Plans nine the principal ports are added insets, well
general outline map Africa illustrating the Cape Cairo route and the Natal
railways.
Togo. Sprigade.
Karte von Togo. Scale 200,000 stat. miles toan inch. Konstruiert und
gezeichnet unter Leitung von Paul Sprigade. und mit Unterstut-
der des Amts, herausgegeben durch die
Verlagshandlung. Sheet: Lome. Berlin: Dietrich Reimer (Ernst Vohsen),
1903. Price 1.80m. each
This the first sheet large map Togoland, now course publication.
carefully compiled from the route surveys various explorers, which are indicated
with the travellers’ names and the dates their journeys. well drawn, clearly
printed, and gives amount detail, although many districts are still
but imperfectly known.
West Africa. Mager.
Atlas d’Afrique Occidentale. Par Henri Mager. Paris: Ernest Flammarion.
Price \fr.
cheap popular little atlas French West Africa, consisting two sheets
maps from the Nouvel Atlas Colonial, with descriptive letterpress, which
additions have been made. There also small general map North-West Africa.
AMERICA,
Argentine and Chile. Steffen.
Grenze zwischen Argentinien und Chile nach dem Shicdsspruch 1902.
Von Dr. Steffen. 2,500,000 39°45 stat. miles inch.
manns Mitteilungen, Jahr. 1903, Tafel Gotha: Justus Perthes.
Presented the Publisher.
Canada. Surveyor-General’s Office, Ottawa.
Sectional Map Scale 190,080 stat. miles inch.
(35), West Second Meridian. Revised September 30,
Willowbunch Sheet (41), West Second Meridian. Revised September 20,
1902. Surveyor-General’s Office, Ottawa, 1902. the Surveyor-General
Canada,
The Willowbunch sheet the area approximately between 40° and
49° 42’ lat. and between 104° and 106° long., and the Qu’Appelle sheet that
between 50° and 51° lat. and between 102° and long. The sheets
346 NEW MAPS.
show townships, trails, post-offices, and railways, addition indication the
topographical features.
Lidstone.
Map part the Republic Colombia. William Lidstone, Scale
Price 15s.
The title this map decidedly vague and indefinite, but the part” the
Republic Colombia refers shown the map, includes the departments
Bolivar, Magdelena, Santander, Antioquia, Tolima, the part Boyaca and
and the eastern half Cauca. map thus represents all the
central and most important region Colombia, including the capital and the courses
the rivers Magdelena and Cauca. The geographical features this country are
still very known, and, with the exception the route-surveys mining
engineers and few others, little additional information obtained that not
given Codazzi’s large atlas which was published over sixty years ago. Any addition
our knowledge therefore specially Mr. Lidstone, the author this map,
the pursuit his profession civil engineer, has travelled extensively the
country, and from his route-surveys, combined with information, this map has been
districts, however, the map not nearly complete might haw-
been the surveys others had been properly utilized. inetance this
found the northern part, where Mr. Simons has worked for years, but the
results whose surveys seem have been almost entirely ignored. Had the infor-
mation contained his maps the departments Bolivar and Magdelena and the
river been made use of, Mr. Lidstone could have rendered his map far more com-
plete. map printed colours, and shows railways existing and course
construction.
United States. Rand, McNally Co.
Indexed County and Township Pocket Maps. Mississippi. Scale 823,680
inch. Montana. Scale 1,900,800 stat. miles Chicago and
New York: Rand, Co., 1903. Price $0.25 Presented the
Publishers.
These are new editions.
GENERAL.
Martin.
Wall illustrations for anthropological, ethnographical, and geographical instruc-
tion. Dr. Rud. Martin. Zurich: Art. Institut Orell
the Publishers.
There can doubt that really carefully prepared wall illustrations
the leading types the human race would prove valuable for educational purposes.
and such the intention the author the above, Dr. Martin, Zurich
University, produce. illustration half-length photochrome picture.
larger than life size, taken from original photographs the author, well-known
scientists and travellers, who have undertaken assist the matter; and from
and other reliable material, Mr. Steiner has, under Dr. Martin’s direction,
painted the originals from which the diagrams have been copied. specimens
already received are the Great Russian, Veddah, and are
two editions the small one, consisting eight pictures, containing types
the Veddah, Javanese, Australian, Masai, Dakota, Eskimo, and Great
Russian, for which the subscription price 8s.; and larger one consisting
twenty-four pictures, illustrating the following types addition those already
mentioned: Egyptian, Senoi, Semang Chinese, Bushman, Tamil, Carib.
Polynesian, Karen, Batta, Dahomey, Micronesian, Kirghiz, Solomon islander,
and Fuegian. For this latter series the subscription price will The diagrams
are issued portfolios, and accompanied explanatory letterpress.
Roman Grundy.
Murray’s Handy Classical Maps. The Empire. Edited Grundy,
Brasenose College,Oxford. Londen: John Murray.
the Publisher.
314.
Admiralty Charts.
NEW MAPS.
CHARTS.
Charts and Plans published the Hydrographic Department, Admiralty, during
November and December, 1902. Presented the Hydrographic Department,
No. Inches.
England, south coast:—Portsmouth harbour, mooring ground,
southern sheet. 2s. 6d.
England, south coast :—Poole harbour. 6d.
1607 England Thames entrance, North Foreland tothe Nore. 3s.
3278 Channel islands, Jersey :—St. Helier harbour. tid.
5|Germany, light-vessel Brunsbiittelkoog
(Plans :—Cuxhaven road, Kaiser canal entrance,
Germany, Elbe river:—Brunsbiittelkoog Hamburg. Plans:
Hamburg and Altona 6d.
Newfoundland :—Northern arms Canada bay. 6d.
Newfoundland: Little river.
Newfoundland :—Bay Islands, outer part.
West Indies, Pucrto Rico, east coast t:—Ensenada Honda and
Puerca
island. 2s. 6d.
602 Columbia :—Roche harbour and approaches. 6d.
0°63 North America, west coast. Alaska (Bering) bay. 1s. 6d.
2361
3303 m
288 m
3308 m
3310
3298
3312 0°96 Eastern Archipelago :—Madura island, south coast road.
6d.
var. Eastern Archipelago:—Anchorages the north coast Java.
6d.
San Fernando harbour, Port Santo td.
28m England, south coast. Plan harbour.
320 North American Lake Superior. Plans :—Michi-
picoten harbour, Gargantua harbour.
(J. Potter, Agent.)
Charts Cancelled.
No. Cancelled
Port Berenice. Plan plan.
2454 PortSan Fernando. plan.
this chart. San Fernando harbour—on
Charts that have received Important Corrections.
No, 28, England, south coast river. 34, England, south coast :—The
Scilly isles. 2390, Scotland, west and west lochs Roag. 2311,
Norway, sheet ix.:—Fleina Vestfiord and the Lofoten islands. 2302, Gulf
Bothnia, sheet point round the head the gulf 2647,
west Sables Bourgneuf. 853, United States,
east coast:—St. Andrew sound St. John river. 130, Leeward
Anguilla Puerto Rico with approaches Virgin islands. 1799,
America, east coast:—Boca del Drago. Boca del South America,
east coast:—Union bay Rio Negro. 1544, Central road.
2087, Africa, south coast :—Bashee river Umtavuna river. Africa, south
coast river Tugela river. 2089, Africa, east coast river
Hydrographic Department, Admiralty.
:
5
348 NEW MAPS.
Delagoa bay. Africa, coast:—Delagoa bay river Zambezi.
Africa, east coast :—Bazaruto bav. 1810, Africa, east coast:—River Zambezi
Mozambique harbour. 1809, Africa, east harbour Ras
Pekawi. 658, Africa, east Pekawi Cape Delgado. 1808, Africa.
east coast, sheet Delgado Kilwa. 690, Africa, east coast
Delgado Mikindani bay. 652, Africa, cast coast:—Kilwa point Zanzibar
1032, Africa, east coast:—Channels between Ras Tikwiri and
island. Africa, east Malindi. 640a, Africa, east
coast :—-Pangani Ras sheets. 1390, Africa, east
point Pangani. 848, Africa, east Juba. Mada-
gascar:—Cape Andrew Bevato island. Indian ocean islands
Comoro islands. 40, India, west coast:—Karachi harbour. 934, Eastern Archi-
pelago :—Surabaya, Bali and Sapudi straits, 3019, Saki
Kagara Sima, with the channels Imari. 651, Japan
(J. Potter, Agent.)
North Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. Meteorological Office, London.
Pilot Chart the North Atlantic and Mediterranean for February, 1903. London:
Meteorological Office. Price 6d. Presented the Meteorological London.
United States Chart. United States Hydrographic Office.
Pilot Chart the North Atlantic Ocean for Jannary, and the North Pacifie
Ocean for 1903. U.S. Hydrographic Office, Washington,
sented the U.S. Office.
Central Africa. Beringer.
Twenty Photographs Central Africa, Otto Beringer, Esq. Presented
Otto Beringer, Esq.
The surveying expedition connection with the Trans-Continental Telegraph line,
during which these were taken, was described the number the
Geographical Journal for last. The photographs are small, some being taken
with binocular camera.
(1) Camp off road, Tanganyika plateau; (2) High grass, Tanganyika plateau; (3)
Fife, Tanganyika plateau; (4) View the African Trans-Continental Telegraph
Company’s telegraph line; (5) Abercorn, main road passing Lake (6) Survey-
ing the shores Lake Chiuta, Abercorn; (7) Awemba; (8) Section
under which Dr. Livingstone’s heart was buried (9) Folding boat small Chiuta
lake, Abercorn; (10) Atonga; (11) Adventure, Lake Nyasa; (12) Usysia;
(13) Domica bay; (14 and 15) North Usysia; (16-18) Ficus, near (19)
Camp shore between bay and Karonga; (20) Looking south between Usysia
and Deep bay.
Yunnan. Watts-Jones.
Twelve Photographs Yunnan, taken Captain Watts-Jones,
sented Mrs. Watts-Jones.
These photographs were taken the late Captain Watts-Jones during his ex-
plorations Yunnan 1900. Although small size, they are remarkably clear.
(1) Ferry the Mekong river; (2) side lagoon, Tali-fu lake; (3) Yangtse
river Shih-Ku; (4) First stage Bhamo-Tali-fu road; (5) Marble temple near
Tali-fu; (6) Chain suspension bridge over the Shweli river; (7) Waterfall where
river leaves Momein plain; (8) Canal north Tali-fu; (9) Remains ancient lake-
bed plain, Nan-tien valley; (10) Rice terraces, Shunning-fu valley; (11) Chinese
Shan village Taeping (12) Nan Ting valley.
N.B.—It would greatly add the value the collection Photo-
graphs which has been established the Map all the Fellows
the Society who have taken photographs during their travels, would
forward copies them the Map Curator, whom they will
acknowledged. Should the donor have purchased the photographs,
will useful for reference the name the photographer and his
address are given.
Published by the Royal Geograplura
THE GEOGRAPHICAL JOURNAL
Sketch map showing
SVEN ROUTES
CENTRAL ASIA
Scale Miles.
0 50 100 200 300
MAPS ILLUSTRATE THE PAPER
Scale
TEMPEST ANDERSON.
THE GEOGRAPHICAL JOURNAL
EST INDIES.
part the
Seale Miles.
L 2 3 +
Précheur
Pierre Road
Fond
Fond.Laillet
1:150,000
WEST
North part the
ISLAND MARTINIQUE
Scale Miles.
miles
Railways Principal Roads
Heights feet.
=
Under 100 Fath™
1000_
90°
yal
the
Rabaka Dry
WEST INDIES
S
eating,
VADORS
2000.
00 ,,